Weather backup for Slesse?

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow wrote: Dude, if you’re falling on 5.10a sport route at exit 38 you’re not ready for a long alpine route like Slesse, even as a follower. Not trying to be a downer, but it’s just not a good idea. Most importantly it won’t be fun for you.

There’s lots of easier alpine climbing in the Northwest. What have you done around Washington Pass? I’d give something like the long 5.9 on Burgundy Spire (can link with the West Ridge of Paisano for a 14-pitch day) before you even think about slesse. You can do that in July before the pocket glacier slides. 

I think the Paisano-Burgundy linkup would be a great tester for Sleese.  A bit different when it comes to climbing and challenge of route but its long and fun!  Great camping not to far from the route with water.  Plus, like Jimmy said, you can do this before the pocket glacier slides.

Sleese is a biiiiiiiig route with an even bigger approach.  Approach is not just long but complicated and has had some recent changes due to rock fall (I believe).  Put it on the tick list and work your way up.  The mountain isn't going anywhere.

slim wrote: just out of curiosity, have you climbed many alpine routes in the PNW?  if not, it is worth while to take kind of a "baby steps" approach.  i consider the NEB on slesse to be one of the 4 monsters of the PNW.  it would be a good idea to make a list of stepping stone routes to do over the summer and see if you are on track.  these routes require a lot more than just the ability to climb 5.whatever.  everything from the approach to the decent is a battle.  do not underestimate these aspects of the route, lest ye be spooning thy partner.

Great advice, thank you, Slim. My partner is one hell of a spoon. 

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow wrote: Dude, if you’re falling on 5.10a sport route at exit 38 you’re not ready for a long alpine route like Slesse, even as a follower. Not trying to be a downer, but it’s just not a good idea. Most importantly it won’t be fun for you.

There’s lots of easier alpine climbing in the Northwest. What have you done around Washington Pass? I’d give something like the long 5.9 on Burgundy Spire (can link with the West Ridge of Paisano for a 14-pitch day) before you even think about slesse. You can do that in July before the pocket glacier slides. 

Thanks Jimmy! I'll add that link up to the list of training routes.

slim wrote: just out of curiosity, have you climbed many alpine routes in the PNW?  if not, it is worth while to take kind of a "baby steps" approach.  i consider the NEB on slesse to be one of the 4 monsters of the PNW.  it would be a good idea to make a list of stepping stone routes to do over the summer and see if you are on track.  these routes require a lot more than just the ability to climb 5.whatever.  everything from the approach to the decent is a battle.  do not underestimate these aspects of the route, lest ye be spooning thy partner.

What are the other 3 on your list of the 4 monsters? Sounds like the makings of a good to-do list...

In general, I agree with your advice of caution, and the suggestion of a "baby steps" approach. Way better to build a solid base (and do some awesome climbing along the way) than try to shortcut the process and get in over your head. Many great options in  Washington to use to build up experience.

What're your bets on when the border opens up and we get to climb in Canada again?

Dylan Colon wrote: 
Also I will point out that I may be wrong, but I don't think Allen's alternate start is exactly safe from the Pocket either, you have to cross under it instead of walking on top of it while approaching the actual ridge.

You would be wrong :-) as one is safe from the Pocket Glacier as one comes in from the right side of the buttress. However, there can be dead fall from the Slesse Glacier. But it is very short duration. When we got up on the slabs we actually went left to checkout the Pocket Glacier from below. Yikes!!

my 4 monsters of the PNW (and these are more like monsters for normal mortals...)
full NR of stuart
backbone ridge on dragontail
NEB on slesse
NEB on goode

i base this on kind of a combination of approach, descent, size, and probability of getting skunked at well below your grade.

obviously there are lot of monsters in the PNW though!  in my experience, even the baby monsters usually have more teeth than expected.

Allen Sanderson wrote: You would be wrong :-) as one is safe from the Pocket Glacier as one comes in from the right side of the buttress. However, there can be dead fall from the Slesse Glacier. But it is very short duration. When we got up on the slabs we actually went left to checkout the Pocket Glacier from below. Yikes!!

i think (IIRC) there is another approach up and around the left side of the pocket glacier(?).  in any case, just getting onto the actual NEB is one of the first main concerns.  the way you went, did it have decent protection?  for some reason i envision that way being dirty, slick, and not well protected.

Ha my first Cascade peak climbs were as follows all in 1981:

Coleman Headwall – got rained out   
Price Glacier – Way too hot things falling and we backed off   
Slesse NEB – Success   

My Sleese partner was  a guy I net at the UW rock. First and only time we climbed together. It’s hard to remember what the conditions were at the time but we did the entire ridge and approached the base from the right. The only dicey section seemed short lived and not too bad. Maybe we were just goofballs. The best climbing was the first few pitches at the bottom and then a couple hundred feet above the bivy ledge area. The remainder was medicocre, although the ridge was always a  cool place to be.  We climbed directly up the ridge just below the bivy section rather than moving right. Pro might have been hard to get here but with brass nuts and small cams things may be different than I remember. The bivi area is awesome! Comfy, huge and with fantastic views over to the East. For me far more memorable and enjoyable than any other bivi I have made.  We stopped climbing mid-afternoon and just hung out and took in the scenery. I think we even made snow cones. Well worth the extra gear needed. I don’t understand the "do it in a day" mentality – the best part of the route was the ambiance not the climbing. As night fell so did a few raindrops and I remember thinking in a rain storm this will be a PITA to escape from.  This is what you really need to be prepared for.  We did a car shuttle which seemed far more reasonable than the Crossover Peak descent.

Didn't attempt another Cascade peak for 10 years

slim wrote:

i think (IIRC) there is another approach up and around the left side of the pocket glacier(?).  in any case, just getting onto the actual NEB is one of the first main concerns.  the way you went, did it have decent protection?  for some reason i envision that way being dirty, slick, and not well protected.

There is a direct start described in McClane's guide. We did a variation to it which was a bit vegetated (see the photo). As you can see we got in pro - lots but thin (see the photo).

Darryl Cramer wrote: Ha my first Cascade peak climbs were as follows all in 1981:

Coleman Headwall – got rained out   
Price Glacier – Way too hot things falling and we backed off   
Slesse NEB – Success  
Didn't attempt another Cascade peak for 10 years

Anyone that STARTED their Cascade career with these two objectives should be glad they SURVIVED to attempt a third!

Darryl Cramer wrote: Ha my first Cascade peak climbs were as follows all in 1981:

Coleman Headwall – got rained out   
Price Glacier – Way too hot things falling and we backed off   
Slesse NEB – Success   

1 out of 3 isn't too bad for the cascades :)

slim wrote:

1 out of 3 isn't too bad for the cascades :)

Thus the 10 year gap!

Curt Veldhuisen wrote:

Anyone that STARTED their Cascade career with these two objectives should be glad they SURVIVED to attempt a third!

Nah the guys I was with on those two attempts had experience climbing in Alaska and the Rockies...as a matter of fact one of those attempts was while they were staying at my house for a few days before heading to a failed FA in Alaska. 

Beside there are a lot of people who come to Wa with a ton of mountain experience....I'll admit my glacier experience was low then and hasn't improved in the almost 40 years since!

Darryl Cramer wrote:

Nah the guys I was with on those two attempts had experience climbing in Alaska and the Rockies...as a matter of fact one of those attempts was while they were staying at my house for a few days before heading to a failed FA in Alaska. 

Beside there are a lot of people who come to Wa with a ton of mountain experience....I'll admit my glacier experience was low then and hasn't improved in the almost 40 years since!

Glad to hear it. Fans of the Index walls have certainly benefited from your survival!

Artem Vasilyev wrote: What are some good tactics for spotting if the pocket glacier has slid? Is there a place from which you can view it with a spotting scope?

Just ask on MP before driving up there, someone else is bound to have gone up before and will likely have photo evidence

Summer is cancelled ya'll (FYI)

slim wrote: my 4 monsters of the PNW (and these are more like monsters for normal mortals...)
full NR of stuart
backbone ridge on dragontail
NEB on slesse
NEB on goode

i base this on kind of a combination of approach, descent, size, and probability of getting skunked at well below your grade.

obviously there are lot of monsters in the PNW though!  in my experience, even the baby monsters usually have more teeth than expected.

Did you just patronize me for planning to climb Slesse because of my tick list and then put both Slesse and a route from my tick list on your monster list? 9/10.

how is that not 10/10?  :)

if you have done NEB on goode you definitely have a lot of what it would take to do slesse.  just got to bump up your climbing grade a bit.