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Purchasing land for personal climbing

Original Post
Michael Hall · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 11

The Carolina Climbers Coalition has purchased land or developed leases at well-known crags but there's bound to be plenty of undiscovered or little known crags that are not part of State or National parks and owned by some random non-climber.  Do people ever purchase land specifically for personal climbing and if so do they tend to share it with friends, partner with other climbers, etc? 

Patrick Miller · · Indiana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 340

I did this in RRG. I  know of about 10 different climbers that have bought land with climbing on it around the Red. Surprisingly there is a ton of cheap land with good rock around here. 

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

People do this. When I lived in Arkansas we had access to Busby ‘holler’ that was adjacent to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and we climbed at Busby before HCR was developed. Busby was owned by a farmer at the time. A climber bought it, and shut off all access except for his homies. I’ve even heard that he patrols his border with HCR on a four wheeler, toting a shotgun proper Arkie style. Ironic and disappointing 

Broken Arrow Tool Co · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0
John Ryan wrote: People do this. When I lived in Arkansas we had access to Busby ‘holler’ that was adjacent to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and we climbed at Busby before HCR was developed. Busby was owned by a farmer at the time. A climber bought it, and shut off all access except for his homies. I’ve even heard that he patrols his border with HCR on a four wheeler, toting a shotgun proper Arkie style. Ironic and disappointing 

Locals Only, nawmean?!

Aidan Mickleburgh · · Arlington VA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 4,531

The better move would be to buy the land and then open it up to climbing so there's never an access issue. After you've got all the 4 star sends of course...

Patrick Miller · · Indiana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 340

One of the little short walls on my lot. I have a sweet finger crack also I’ll see if I can find some pics. 

Adam W · · TX/Nevada · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 532

John hogge did it twice in the Austin Texas area.  He previously owned what is now the north shore portion of Reimers ranch and also currently owns Monster Rock a property he bought for climbing and lets people climb there free.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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