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El Doctor Mexico

Original Post
Samuel Trimboli · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 92

Hi,
I am going to be in the Queretaro region of Mexico soon for a wedding and I have been scouring MP and the Crag looking for steep limestone and I came across some good looking cliffs near the village of El Doctor.
Does anyone have beta on where to stay if not camping?
Best,
Sam

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

Bernal is about 1.5 hours away by car.  Camping and inexpensive hotels.  Also climbing on the Peña.

Shane Bates · · Loveland, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 245

Pena de Bernal has very little steep climbing and doesn’t climb anything like limestone. When I was there finding route info was a bit difficult apart from the handful of more popular stuff. But there are a good bit of harder new routes bolted/ being bolted. It is a stellar place with good climbing near to OPs location.

Will Haden · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 90

Hit up my buddies at ChiChido if you make it to Bernal. They have a nice little bungalow with kitchen, bathroom, hammocks, bouldering on the property. Fernando and Omar are great dudes.

https://www.chichidho.com/

JJ Burns · · Colima · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

Here's a Facebook page with some info and photos. facebook.com/escaladaeldoctor/
I was in the area last July, but missed El Doctor. It looks like a lot of fun!   I would take camping gear and pay to camp if you want to stay close to the crag.  We stayed in an AirBnB house in La Esperanza and there wasn't a restaurant or even a taco stand in the little town.  However, the people were very friendly and we had no problem finding someone to get food and cook for us.  It'll be cold at night, so be prepared.  San Joaquin isn't too far away and has more options for hotels and restaurants.

Samuel Trimboli · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 92
JJ Colima wrote: Here's a Facebook page with some info and photos. facebook.com/escaladaeldoctor/
I was in the area last July, but missed El Doctor. It looks like a lot of fun!   I would take camping gear and pay to camp if you want to stay close to the crag.  We stayed in an AirBnB house in La Esperanza and there wasn't a restaurant or even a taco stand in the little town.  However, the people were very friendly and we had no problem finding someone to get food and cook for us.  It'll be cold at night, so be prepared.  San Joaquin isn't too far away and has more options for hotels and restaurants.

Do you know anything about the rooms to rent at the store in El Doctor?

JJ Burns · · Colima · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Samuel Trimboli wrote:

Do you know anything about the rooms to rent at the store in El Doctor?

No, I don't.  I would just try to get into town early enough to check things out while still having enough time to get a place in San Joaquin before dark as a plan B in case there's nothing you like in Doctor.  Everyone that we met in that area of Queretero was very friendly and accomodating.  Let us know how it goes!

Peter Hudnut · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 6

El doctor is a lovely crag with many nice routes similar in style to Potrero but none of the polish and none of the crowds. It is currently closed but when it reopens the beta on climbing there is pretty straight forward. The village next to the area is very small and charming, as you drive through town at the last uphill on the left is a little deposito. Register to climb here with Dona Eve and her husband Ernesto. They have up to date photo topos with all the routes, prob about a hundred routes in total. Camping is 50 pesos ~2-3 dollars a night. The view is great and the trail to the crag starts right from camp and is only about a ten minute approach through a nice pine forrest. The village does not have a grocery store, restaurant, internet, or any supplies, I cannot imagine how a trip would be feasible here without your own car. Tread lightly here, this crag is very new and and the surrounding environment is very clean still and not trashy at all like many popular climbing areas in Mexico. Keep it that way. The weather is wild, it can be 90 and beating sun, or hundred mile an hour winds with driving sleet. This area, and Tepuzas south of Queretaro city, are much better climbing areas than Pena de Bernal if you are looking for hard sport cragging with fewer people. Bernal is pricey and touristy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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