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Which one would you build?

Original Post
Ted Vogel · · Bennington, NE · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Which one should I build? All 11ft tall. Farthest 29 degree wall. Middle is 37 degree wall. Closest is 37 degree wall that transition to a vertical section 8.25 feet off the ground.  I have been climbing for a couple of months and am really getting into it. I have room for one of these walls. Each angled wall will be next to a flat vertical wall. The flat wall is 7' wide and the angled wa

ll is 7' wide. (I have 14' of wall space).
Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110

They are all really cool!

Since you have a vertical wall for "slab" as well, I'd go with the middle one to strengthen my weak chicken wings.

Eli B · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 6,177

#2, you're not going to get any moves out of the small vertical section and you might as well go as steep as possible.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

The biggest issue I have with these - all of them - is the 90 degree inside corner. Put a triangular panel in there to make a pair of 45's.

Andrew S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 36

I'd make one wall with one angle. You can always add volumes to mix it up. This makes the climbing better and the build easier.  Personally I would go with something >35°

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,133
Andrew S wrote: I'd make one wall with one angle. You can always add volumes to mix it up. This makes the climbing better and the build easier.  Personally I would go with something >35°

ya, go with #4, vertical is a waste of space

Kris Pucci · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Great question, these things are expensive and once they are built you probably won't take the time to change it, so making sure it is done right the first time is important. I have built 3 different woodys for myself, and helped with a couple more, as well as training boards, campus boards and crack simulators. I have learned something very valuable, and now I know how to build the right home wall. Two words - Moon Board! You are in a unique position to have the required ceiling height, and a blank slate, plus your designs are already close (M.B. is 40 degrees). I always got burned out on my woody, and i would repeat moves and routes that fit my style and were comfortable for me, leading to many gaps in my training. Moon Boards avoid that by having thousands of pre-set routes. Plus having an app to record your sends and compare and ask advice helps keep you motivated. The holds are not much more expensive than any holds and you can buy more sets as you can afford them. The new hold sets even go down to V2 which is nice because it otherwise started at V4 and stiff at that! I even found myself getting excited about sending like I would on real rock and plastic has never done that for me before. Do yourself a favour, and learn about the Moon Board. By the way, I don't work for Ben haha, I'm just a dude from British Columbia who finally found the right way to train at home, after years of having woodys in my basement that didn't get used enough. 

Kris Pucci · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

It helps that the new set goes down to V2 but this may still feel quite hard. Moon boards are notoriously difficult. Don't be discouraged though, it has a steep learning curve. You may not send a route for a little while, but once you do, the floodgates will open and you will send many after that. 

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

+1 for moonboard. Difficult, and can be pricey for holds, but the training value is above all else. With a moonboard and a hangboard, you could be boulder something like V10 in no time. The learning curve is steep for sure, but there is no shortage of routes and you will never get tired of your set, unlike most woodys. Even if price is an issue, drill the LED holes but don’t buy the lights right away. I’ve climbed on moonboard a without the lights, and looking up from your phone before you climb really isn’t that big of problem and as easily as you can implement them later, it shouldn’t deter you from such a great opportunity

Ted Vogel · · Bennington, NE · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

I think I'll eliminate the vertical spot on top and follow Gunkie Mike's idea of getting a few 45 triangles in the corner. Would also make the flat vert-section more interesting. I'll have to design that up quick.

mbb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

11' height is awesome!  But 7' wide is way too narrow.  As others have said, option 4 is the way to go, 14' wide, same angle all the way across.  This will give you maximum versatility.  Good luck, have fun!

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I’d do a moonboard with 8ft of the width and use the other 6 ft for something with bigger holds and/or lower angle for warmup/cool down and for endurance.

Kris Pucci · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0
Julian H wrote: Sure build a moonboard get injured and quit climbing.

Don’t they to comment to climb v6 before using a moonboard? 

With any climbing , warming up properly is essential. We tend to go harder on plastic because we want the workout, and they tend to be more finger based, because we all know strong fingers are essential to climb harder routes. If you are new to training, and climbing in general, make sure you respect the process. Muscle gains come faster than tendon gains, so progress slowly when it comes to small holds. Moon board is great because you can keep climbing new routes in the easier range, without too much repetition. You can train endurance by getting 4 climbs dialled, then do all 4 with minimal rest in between, and do this 4 times, with a bit of rest between each set. 4x4's! I've never heard of recommending v6 before you use a moon board as Julian suggests, but i did mention that the new hold set is easier. Avoid the old yellow set, they are very small and difficult. There is no better home woody than something like a Moon Board or Tension board. I have no experience with the Tension board but it may be just as sweet. If you are still not convinced, you can build a variable angle Moon Board. Many people back the angle off to 20 degrees and there is even an option on the app to accommodate this. Just design it so you can switch between angles easily.

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825

use all 14 feet maybe half 45, half 35. All 45 would be my pref if I had that kind of room. Vertical climbing walls at home are a total waste of space.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Peter Beal wrote: use all 14 feet maybe half 45, half 35. All 45 would be my pref if I had that kind of room. Vertical climbing walls at home are a total waste of space.

OP is a newer climber, not someone who climbs V-double digit and has been doing so for decades. Do you still think that this is the correct advice?

I agree to skip the vert wall, and do one angle all the way across, but back off the angle a bit from the steeper suggestions. 30 deg would be my vote for an angle that you can still climb on as a newer climber, but won't be limiting as you get stronger.

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825

I saw that JCM and it's a good point. 30 would be a good compromise but long haul, 35/45 will make you a better climber. My feeling is that with the right mix of holds a short steep wall can be tamed but it's really hard to make much of a short vertical one.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Peter Beal wrote: I saw that JCM and it's a good point. 30 would be a good compromise but long haul, 35/45 will make you a better climber. My feeling is that with the right mix of holds a short steep wall can be tamed but it's really hard to make much of a short vertical one.

It also depends on other information about this newer climber - thier age, athleticism, and motivation.  In their 20's, background in other sports, generally fit, motivated to get strong? Go steep - their ability will catch up with the harder wall  quick enough.  In that case, I'd suggest a 40 degree wall, with one side as a moon board (or, at least, with the moon board specs so that you could turn it in to one later), and the remaining wall space as a spray wall.

Late 30s, not especially fit, kids and a job, looking at climbing as a hobby for their (limited) free time? Go a lot less steep. 

Up to the OP to decide which applies to them.

Ted Vogel · · Bennington, NE · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks for all of the feedback so far guys. So, I'm 35, job and kids, but I am in shape and have done all sorts of weight lifting and calisthenics most of my life (I love pull ups and wanted to get better at moving my body, STAY in shape, and ENJOY the process.)

I mocked up something like this: 



I figured this would be good right now. I like the vert. section, because I could traverse and work on starting walls this way confidently.  I also have a 5-year-old son who loves climbing. I figured this would be the best way for us to continue, right now. As we progress, the vertical section can disappear easy enough. It's just some screws and I could build a steeper section, a less steep section, or if I get crazy, a roof or something. But this way, maybe I can get a few cool problems that start low on the vert and end up going across the little 45 degree triangle and even end up on the 37 degree large wall.  

I WILL take the advice and maybe make the vert section 6' so that the angles section can be 8' wide. Especially if the vertical section would either just be used to start for me, or mostly by my 5-year-old. (Who, by the way, is ridiculously strong and will probably progress faster than me before I know it!)
Ned Plimpton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 116

Just my opinion, but unless someone’s already a strong/experienced boulderer with board climbing experience, buying and building a Moonboard without prior trial will lead to a “why did I just do this?” moment.  

The best woody is the one you’ll actually use. 

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825

"The best woody is the one you’ll actually use." PREACH

Right now I am actually more interested in my hangboard than my climbing wall haha.

Ned Plimpton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 116
Peter Beal wrote:
Right now I am actually more interested in my hangboard than my climbing wall haha.

Ain't a damn thing wrong about that!  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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