Bolting Bible - Replacing Climbing Wedge Bolts with Powers Bolts
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This was a sugar loaf in Tahoe like our last video. Your feedback is awesome. Let us know tips we didn't mention in here and I'll add it to the Bolting Bible journal for our next update. Cheers! Bolting Bible is at www.howNOTtoHighline.com and most of this stuff is in the "Book of Pulling Out" |
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Good demo of the spinning process for wedge bolts. |
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PLX is a duplex stainless steel. |
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Clint Cummins wrote: Good demo of the spinning process for wedge bolts. PLX or duplex steel is the newest popular metal being used as it is a bit better than 316 stainless. Fixe had issues with theirs but I believed that is solved now and you can read all of that in the metal section of the bolting bible. You are right though... zinc plated bolts should not be used outside. |
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You should use a torque wrench. It's one thing if you've been doing it for 30 years and you know pretty well what the spec torque feels like without one, but if you're producing a 'how to' video, odds are the intended viewer doesn't, so you (and more importantly they) should be using a torque wrench. Doubly so if you're rebolting w/ASCA bolts vs. putting in your own hardware that you paid for. |
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rocknice2 wrote: PLX is a duplex stainless steel. Thanks for the correction; I was wrong thinking it was merely plated. |
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Clint, duplex stainless steels are also strongly attracted to magnets, unlike 300-series stainless steels. So the magnet test doesn't distinguish between duplex and plated. |
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PLX steel is actually a highly formable grade of mild steel produced and marketed under the designation PLX by SSAB Steel in Sweden and widely used for formed roof cladding. |
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A few coments on the video and the previous video about removing the bolts at the top of the climb |
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Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: A few coments on the video and the previous video about removing the bolts at the top of the climb I think those really were 5/16. The 3/8 button heads are 2 inches long. You really need the fork made from the sds wide chisel like shown above for the 3/8. |
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Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: A few coments on the video and the previous video about removing the bolts at the top of the climb On most of my SDS to fine thread adapters there a philips cone head screw (reverse threaded). I back that out enough that it engages the stud inside the inner thread adapter although on short studs I need to use the nut trick you mention. |
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Timothy Fisher wrote: Nope. Those were 3/8". You can tell by the size of the buttonhead. The difference in size between a 1/4" and 5/16" buttonhead isn't all that much, but the 3/8" is significantly larger. You can't tell just by the length of the bolt. |
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Max Tepfer wrote: You should use a torque wrench. It's one thing if you've been doing it for 30 years and you know pretty well what the spec torque feels like without one, but if you're producing a 'how to' video, odds are the intended viewer doesn't, so you (and more importantly they) should be using a torque wrench. Doubly so if you're rebolting w/ASCA bolts vs. putting in your own hardware that you paid for. Max - do you have a torque wrench recommendation? I have a torque wrench for working on my truck but its huge. The max ft/lbs for bolts is something like 30, right? |
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Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: No Bruce, those were definitely 5/16" buttonheads (in the previous video, not this one which is an old 3/8" wedge/stud bolt). The head of a 5/16" is huge compared to a 1/4", and they just look big (which is why they are often found on early sport routes without people even noticing that they aren't 3/8" bolts). And 3/8" are MUCH larger - too large to ever be seen with a SMC hanger. I've only seen 3/8" buttonheads with homemade hangers or 12mm hole hangers. Most 3/8" split-shaft bolts are the thread-head style (since those could be used with 3/8" hole hangers). |
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Bruce you may be right but it doesn't look that way to me. Obviously I have way too much time on my hands. I don't have a 3/8 button head handy. The threaded version for reference. bolt in SMC hanger is 5/16. One just to the right is 1/4. New 5/16 to the right of that.
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Dug out some buttonheads - the 3/8" is actually a Spike bolt since I couldn't find a 3/8" buttonhead, but should be about the same diameter. Bruce, I think you actually gave me the new 5/16" buttonhead years ago! It would be theoretically possible to fit a 3/8" buttonhead in a SMC hanger if you expanded the hole from 3/8" up to about 12mm, so they actually could be seen with a SMC hanger that someone had drilled or filed out. 3/8" Spike, 5/16" buttonhead, 1/4" buttonhead, stainless SMC hanger with 3/8" hole. |
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John L wrote: There are a few recommendations here: mountainproject.com/forum/t… There's also some really good discussion of why using a torque wrench is a good idea. (in particular w/SS hardware) It's a short enough thread that you can pretty easily actually read it as opposed to skim and miss out on a lot of the info. |
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Max Tepfer wrote: This is the one I use. I don't work for JPL so I'm not too worried if it's off a few % points but it gets me in the ball park and isn't too heavy. Tekton Torque Wrench |
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Thanks Matt and Max! |