Canceled Olympic Games

Keep in mind that climbing in the olympics is for the general public, not for climbers. When lead climbing and bouldering was demonstrated to the IOC they were not impressed, but when they saw speed, they were psyched. Basically, per the IOC, the only way to get bouldering or lead in the games was to also incorporate speed, since that is the discipline the IOC insisted on. 

the schmuck wrote: Keep in mind that climbing in the olympics is for the general public, not for climbers. When lead climbing and bouldering was demonstrated to the IOC they were not impressed, but when they saw speed, they were psyched. Basically, per the IOC, the only way to get bouldering or lead in the games was to also incorporate speed, since that is the discipline the IOC insisted on. 

this is true. Speed is fun to watch whether you are a "real climber" or just an average TV viewer. It's just not that much fun to do. But that's not the point of the Olympics. 

Dave K wrote:

I understand that the event is what it is, and that some people think it's fun. But I think they blew it when they had the opportunity to create a competitive event that was supposed to have a foundation in mountaineering and then change it into something that is missing what makes climbing mountains distinct from other endeavours: The challenge of adapting to an infinitely diverse set of situations.

You do realize that speed climbing isn't a new thing, right?

https://www.perfectdescent.com/what-is-speed-climbing/

Yuri Rodea wrote:

You joke but thats what a lot of athletic events are like.

Yeah its not climbing. Like...at all. Thats the point. Speed climbers are closer to rowers, track and field athletes, etc. They dont want to be the next Sharma

then why have them compete in bouldering and difficulty?? I don't recall Usain Bolt having to run the marathon. It's not so much the speed climbing that is the issue, but trather that the format is forcing Ondra to give a shit about speed climbing when he clearly doesn't and have the specialised speed climbers look like "beginners" on the boulders and difficulty event.  The chosen format is what sucks, not the speed climbing itself. 

Jon Hillis wrote: I am a ultra runner that spends 1-2 days a week on tracks running speed because it is fun to mix things up and it doesn't hurt me to work on something else beside LSD.

I'm Long Ranger, not Fast Ranger.

Jon Hillis wrote:

Throw a water hazard into the 100 Meter. Try and get your records now Bolt!

If obstacle course racing doesn't make it into the Olympics before I'm elderly, I'd be surprised. 

Long Ranger wrote:

I'm Long Ranger, not Fast Ranger.

I have seen tortoises laugh at my 400m... Still fun to get after it. I much prefer ripping down a single track desperately trying to not fail on my face. But track days are fun too. Point is you don't have to be fast to have fun on a track. And it is a great running activity in-between the long days!

The speed climbing routes should criss cross each other at least 3 times so that strategy, strength and ice in your veins matter too. Add a little Roller Derby to it.

Mike Lane wrote: The speed climbing routes should criss cross each other at least 3 times so that strategy, strength and ice in your veins matter too. Add a little Roller Derby to it.

Oh they've tried that, too. 

Dave K wrote:

I'm pretty sure it's not just me. In fact I think we can say that the problem solving aspect of climbing is something that the majority of climbers enjoy.

If climbing is really only about going up, why even use climbing holds on the course? Why couldn't the course just be a ladder? It would be less expensive and more accessible to the underprivileged.

This is how we climb ladders quickly in our local fire department. I would watch that in Tokyo this summer.  : - ) 

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

Seriously? Seasonal flu kills more people a day that the Coronavirus actual tally so far. Talk about a hype 

Hype or not, Switzerland just canceled all events with >1000 people.

RockinOut wrote:

Common Flu deaths in US 2020     Corona Virus Deaths worldwide     4,800 deaths in the US alone from the common flu and 2,400 deaths worldwide from the wuhan corona virus

2400 Coronavirus deaths out of 80,000 infected. 4800 flu deaths out of tens on millions infected. 

BTW I doubt they cancel the Olympics but I won’t be surprised if they make it TV only, no public attendance.

Jon W wrote:

CDC estimates that so far this season there have been at least 32 million flu illnesses, 310,000 hospitalizations and 18,000 deaths from flu. https://www.cdc.gov/flu/weekly/index.htm 

So you agree with me, this virus will kill many more when tens on millions become infected. 

Doug Chism wrote: BTW I doubt they cancel the Olympics but I won’t be surprised if they make it TV only, no public attendance.

You can place bets on whether it gets canceled or not.. I'd get in now before it all adjusts. 

"Keep in mind that climbing in the olympics is for the general public, not for climbers. When lead climbing and bouldering was demonstrated to the IOC they were not impressed, but when they saw speed, they were psyched. "

Keep in mind that the olympics is not for the general public, it is for the wealthy and the corrupt.  When the IOC sees the money, they are impressed.

But the IOC bribery is only the tip of the iceberg compared to the massive spending to hold the entire circus, much of which is corrupted.

2020 Tokyo  paid bribes to IOC
2016 Rio paid bribes to IOC
2014   Sochi  massive corruption & embezzlement by Russian authorities & oligarchs
2002 SLC Utah paid bribes to IOC  

https://www.usatoday.com/story/sports/olympics/2019/06/27/joc-gets-new-leader-in-wake-of-tokyo-olympic-bribery-scandal/39628957/
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-48881867
https://www.flotrack.org/articles/5053760-the-iocs-true-ideals-corruption-and-greed
https://www.cfr.org/backgrounder/economics-hosting-olympic-games
https://www.nytimes.com/1999/01/22/sports/olympics-corruption-is-extensive-ioc-official-finds.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2002_Winter_Olympic_bid_scandal
https://www.csmonitor.com/World/Europe/2014/0110/Sochi-Games-come-with-Olympic-sized-corruption-official-says
https://www.forbes.com/sites/kenrapoza/2018/02/15/south-korea-vs-brazil-a-tale-of-two-olympics/#47fd66392140
https://law-richmond.libguides.com/c.php?g=388993&p=2639263
https://nypost.com/2016/05/21/corruption-is-killing-the-olympic-games-or-should/
https://apnews.com/26b1991b3ea4463ae7d8102533ec4a54
https://www.transparency.org/files/content/feature/3.4_BiddingProcess_Zimbalist_GCRSport.pdf

TR Fellhung wrote:

Tons of olympic stuff is boring to watch. Biathlon?  There are so many events they don't even show on TV. 

What is the point of the Olympics?

Speed climbing has got to be the most specialized sport there is. You can't even practice if you don't have the exact course. Even Marc's article says only one company makes the official autobelay. There is no other sport that requires such specific equipment just to even try it.

It's like a talent show where everybody plays the same song on the same instrument. Who's the best? I don't know, because I won't be watching.

You don't realize how well-viewed Biathlon is in Scandenavia and other places, I suppose.

You're right, though, that there are lots of boring sports. But when they're thinking about ADDING a new sport at the Olympic boring isn't something they look for.

I just spent the last two days at the Pan Am Games climbing finals. Watched all three disciplines for both men and women. I think speed works just fine in that format. Bouldering was spectacular. Lead climbing, which is what I'm most interested in, was fun but I think a lot of the subtleties will be lost on a general audience. 

Japan's Prime Minister has just announced the games will go ahead.

https://www.bbc.com/sport/olympics/51888491?at_medium=custom7&at_custom2=facebook_page&at_custom3=BBC+News&at_custom1=%5Bpost+type%5D&at_custom4=F2281E2E-6605-11EA-9E9A-62DDFCA12A29&at_campaign=64&fbclid=IwAR2pWF6RstjWV647atyrg_OanLBKvF-P2aE-c1MSg-800F5lu3lG194M31I

Garry R wrote: Japan's Prime Minister has just announced the games will go ahead.

He also said:

Abe added the International Olympic Committee (IOC) would have the final decision whether Tokyo 2020 goes ahead.

So..... maybe. And a lot can happen in the next 3 months.