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Red River Gorge Trad Lines

Original Post
Uncle Rico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 138

I was looking to head down to the RRG soon, and was hoping that I could have some recommendations on good trad lines (10-11 range) and areas with clusters of climbs.  Also, looking to avoid crowds if at all possible.  Thanks 

Chris Watford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 11

So many, but here is a thread to start.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106529413/best-cracks-in-the-red-river-gorge

For sure Synchronicity, Rock Wars and Roadside Attraction

Paddy O'Hulk · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 45

Note that GFNP (Roadside Crag) Is currently closed - meaning Synchronicity, and Roadside attraction are out unfortunately. 

William Wilson · · Ashland, KY · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 100

Funk Rock City. Long Wall. Pebble Beach. The Stadium @ Muir Valley. 

Uncle Rico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 138
william wilson wrote: Funk Rock City. Long Wall. Pebble Beach. The Stadium @ Muir Valley. 

How is the approach to Long Wall and chances of it staying dry in the rain?

William Wilson · · Ashland, KY · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 100

The approach for Long Wall is fairly strenuous but straight forward. Rock Wars and Autumn would probably stay dry enough, prepare to share. The worst trad approach, imo is Indian Creek Crag, even when the road is open.  Rainy day trad in the North Gorge-> Fortress Wall. Enjoy.

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

Only 5.9 but the underling is super fun and unique.  IIRC there is a 5.12 trad "boulder probelm" nearby

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878
Uncle Rico wrote: I was looking to head down to the RRG soon, and was hoping that I could have some recommendations on good trad lines (10-11 range) and areas with clusters of climbs.  Also, looking to avoid crowds if at all possible.  Thanks 

The only crowds on trad lines will be Rock Wars and Autumn, lol.  But anything in the North Gorge, Tombstone Surfer would be good!

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878

I would highly recommend Inhibitor if you can catch it dry.  It's so amazing

Eugenel Espiritu · · Pennsylvania · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,660

Go to the Northern portion of the gorge, you'll find lots of trad. If it's primarily a trad crag, it usually wont be busy, much less traffic than the RRG southern preserves that are primarily sport climbing.

The online guide will tell you exactly what you want to know, but these are some fun ones:
Fortress
Long Wall
Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge (half and half but not a lot of people go there for the trad)
Indian Creek
Kentucky Wall

Luca Keushguerian · · Yerevan, AM · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 3,043

One thing people haven't stressed enough is the cracks tend to seep in the spring time. While Indian Creek and ESB may seem like good choices (Inhibitor is arguably the best trad route in the RRG) there is a high probability of many/all of the cracks being wet, that goes for the rest of the other trad walls as well. Fortress (not much thats hard there,) Long Wall, and Funk Rock would be your best bets to find dry-ish cracks. TBH trad climbing in the RRG in the spring time isn't the best idea, you would probably haver a better time just sport climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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