Red River Gorge Trad Lines
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I was looking to head down to the RRG soon, and was hoping that I could have some recommendations on good trad lines (10-11 range) and areas with clusters of climbs. Also, looking to avoid crowds if at all possible. Thanks |
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So many, but here is a thread to start. |
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Note that GFNP (Roadside Crag) Is currently closed - meaning Synchronicity, and Roadside attraction are out unfortunately. |
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Funk Rock City. Long Wall. Pebble Beach. The Stadium @ Muir Valley. |
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william wilson wrote: Funk Rock City. Long Wall. Pebble Beach. The Stadium @ Muir Valley. How is the approach to Long Wall and chances of it staying dry in the rain? |
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The approach for Long Wall is fairly strenuous but straight forward. Rock Wars and Autumn would probably stay dry enough, prepare to share. The worst trad approach, imo is Indian Creek Crag, even when the road is open. Rainy day trad in the North Gorge-> Fortress Wall. Enjoy. |
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Only 5.9 but the underling is super fun and unique. IIRC there is a 5.12 trad "boulder probelm" nearby |
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Uncle Rico wrote: I was looking to head down to the RRG soon, and was hoping that I could have some recommendations on good trad lines (10-11 range) and areas with clusters of climbs. Also, looking to avoid crowds if at all possible. Thanks The only crowds on trad lines will be Rock Wars and Autumn, lol. But anything in the North Gorge, Tombstone Surfer would be good! |
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I would highly recommend Inhibitor if you can catch it dry. It's so amazing |
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Go to the Northern portion of the gorge, you'll find lots of trad. If it's primarily a trad crag, it usually wont be busy, much less traffic than the RRG southern preserves that are primarily sport climbing. |
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One thing people haven't stressed enough is the cracks tend to seep in the spring time. While Indian Creek and ESB may seem like good choices (Inhibitor is arguably the best trad route in the RRG) there is a high probability of many/all of the cracks being wet, that goes for the rest of the other trad walls as well. Fortress (not much thats hard there,) Long Wall, and Funk Rock would be your best bets to find dry-ish cracks. TBH trad climbing in the RRG in the spring time isn't the best idea, you would probably haver a better time just sport climbing. |




