1st Flat Iron route

I've been day dreaming about this route all winter here in Texas and plan to try it with my non-climbing friend from Boulder.  It looks like a few bolts and then maybe a tree for the first anchor.  Is this the Direct Route?

I know you locals free solo this thing but I'll be taking rope and pro.  Is there a day during the week that it isn't super crazy busy on the 1st?  Better early or late in the day.  I don't have a month picked out but most likely early summer.

If only there was a website with information on various climbs....

Jon Hillis wrote: If only there was a website with information on various climbs....

Yes, and I'm on it.

Blakevan wrote:

Yes, and I'm on it.

Ah since you are there could you tell me how many bolts are on the second pitch of the mace? I might climb it this weekend and I want to bring enough draws.

Jon, are you bored?  Lonely?  Need a playmate?  Seems like you should go outside and enjoy the sun a bit.

Yes, that is the Direct East Face route. There are two bolts on the first pitch, then belay at the tree. The next pitch has one bolt to belay from. Lots of runout on easy terrain. Any weekday morning should be pretty quiet.

Blakevan wrote: Jon, are you bored?  Lonely?  Need a playmate?  Seems like you should go outside and enjoy the sun a bit.

The sun makes it very hard for me to see my computer screen.

Hey Blake, Ignore the trolls - I think thats an honest question for an out of town-er.

Your correct on the photo being the direct route. The is a giant eye-bolt somewhere in that photo above the chalked up hold, its really obvious once your under the route. You will have some belay options, either at the tree or near there if you want to make a gear anchor. The climbing is mellow, but be prepared for sparse gear, so bring a varied rack and ready for long run-outs.

Nothing wrong with going ropes, and you are correct that people will be soloing around you, but they will be able to pass without issue, just be courteous if someone comes up on you. It gets hot in the summer due to it being East Facing, so bring water and sun screen. Other than that, have fun!

Any time Monday to Friday before 5 PM won't be crowded though you probably won't have it to yourself. I like to start early in the morning, but there is an argument for starting in the afternoon after the face is in the shade. You want to be able to move pretty fast, and taking a non-climber may make that difficult. Research where the mid-point bail anchor is, I think it is where Baker's Way meets the North Ridge. It's good to know about in case a thunderstorm moves in. Ryan is right to point out the long run-outs, but if you led the Third this is just a bit harder on the first couple of pitches. Have fun!

Would recommend planning on a gear anchor at the top of the first pitch (there's some nice cracks up and left behind the tree), that tree has seen plenty of abuse, and could use a break. Also, there are a couple places on the first pitch where you could place a cam, but it's generally really run out.

Blake, let me add that this is a super popular route and may experience traffic jams on those first and second pitches. You can totally snake those suckers by going up the gully to the right of the slab those pitches are on and then surmount a small ridge and then head up into the buckets of the third pitch. Or, you could also have some of the beta for routes uphill of the Direct East Face printed out and ready to go if you want to have alternatives.

Ryan Gajewski wrote: Your correct on the photo being the direct route. The is a giant eye-bolt somewhere in that photo above the chalked up hold, its really obvious once your under the route. I drew a poor route line, but it gets the idea across. 

Your photo leads one to rotten and wide cracks, and harder than it needs to be climbing.  The correct line with the bolts is off to the right.

You'll have a blast.. the hardest part is the first 20 or so feet that is unprotected.. then you hit the first bolt. I'd bring a light rack since you will not be placing much gear due to lack of good spots... I like to go early like 7 am,before the heat of the day makes it brutal. (I also like to bring a beer to split on the summit.. the perch up there is fantastic and it's why I solo it a few times a year.. Have fun! After the first two pitches or so it goes down to a very similar grade as the 3rd. 

go early and watch the sunrise, it's awesome....or, wait for the sun to go behind the feature and start late.....watch the sun set....awesome either way.

please don't use the tree for your anchor on the first pitch. that poor little guy has been suffering along for decades! there's a great crack about 2m above the tree ledge, takes good cams, or go 15m up and right to another stance....

great route, dude, you'll dig it!

Bill Schick wrote:

Your photo leads one to rotten and wide cracks, and harder than it needs to be climbing.  The correct line with the bolts is off to the right.

Thanks for the correction Bill, I removed the photo as not to sandbag!

Thank you for the confirmation and now I can start to plan.   I did read a thread about the tree and adding some bolts to protect it but I'll just build my own anchor to help the little guy out.

Also, let me explain that this non-climber did climb a lot back in college but that was 15 years ago and in France.  She and her husband climbed back in the day and he warmed up pretty quick last summer so expect her to do the same.

The first isn't much harder than the 3rd. I flew in from Dallas and did 1, 2, and 3 the day we landed. It's slightly run out, but no more so than any of the slab routes at E Rock or the Wichitas. If you're looking for a decent practice route do Dome Driver, Water Streak, and Harder than it Looks. The first two will be harder than this route. Really fun climb though, the ridge at the end is a highlight. 

Thanks Hayden!  Hitting Reimers this weekend if you're down there maybe run into you.  North Shore working Vanilla Sky and maybe Imaginary Friends.

Blakevan wrote: Thanks Hayden!  Hitting Reimers this weekend if you're down there maybe run into you.  North Shore working Vanilla Sky and maybe Imaginary Friends.

Good luck! Heading to Wichitas this weekend but I'm sure we'll bump into each other soon. 

Dudes just asking a question. Maybe he just what’s some interaction with fellow climbers. Gee whiz as if life isn’t hard enough already. Be kind to one another