Joshua Tree 11s

Hello all,

I’m looking for recommendations on good 5.11 cracks that i can climb without having to scramble too much to reach their starts. Kind of like Left Ski Track or Coarse and Buggy. Also cracks that i can lower from the top and clean up, then scramble off if needed to (does Misfits qualify?)

Any help is appreciated.

Juan Vargas wrote: Hello all,

I’m looking for recommendations on good 5.11 cracks that i can climb without having to scramble too much to reach their starts. Kind of like Left Ski Track or Coarse and Buggy. Also cracks that i can lower from the top and clean up, then scramble off if needed to (does Misfits qualify?)

Any help is appreciated.

IDK man there are a lot.... More if your willing to hike...

Bendix Clas
hot rocks
spiderline
semi-tough (not 5.11 but you really gotta earn it!)
British Airways (crux is a face move tho)
Grit Roof (.10d/.11a - you decide)
Pat Adams Dihedral
More Funky than Monkey
Jumping Jack Crack
Days of Thunder
Hidden Arch

Classics but involve scrambling:
Vector
wangerbanger
O'Kelly's
Mojave Queen
Crack Queen
Heart of Darkness
Morrongo Man

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm fine with hiking; however, I'll be climbing in a group of three and I'm planning on bringing my 15 month old to hang around the base, thus the scrambling part.

Juan Vargas wrote: Thanks for the suggestions. I'm fine with hiking; however, I'll be climbing in a group of three and I'm planning on bringing my 15 month old to hang around the base, thus the scrambling part.

I'd prioritize then:

Bendix Claws, hot rocks, spiderline, Pat Adams Dihedral, Jumping Jack Crack, Days of Thunder, Hidden Arch, Scary Poodles.

Hook and ladder is kind of an obscurity but it looks cool...

Hotrocks, Jumping jack crack are nice. Vector is amazing long hike out but worth it. Haven't done, but scoped it out is Pat Adams Dihedral and Scary poodles excellent!

Pat Adams involves Class 4-5 approach and not a good spot for a young child at the base (at all). It is also Very Stout. Even as an 11c, it is powerful (though quite good).

Other short approach 5.11 cracks in the Hemingway area would include Papaya Crack and Right Banana Crack.  Scary Poodles is very good.

In Real Hidden Valley area:

On Sentinel West Face, Where Eagles Dare (short hard crux at bottom - someone would have to follow) and the first pitch of Desert Song both have nice flat sun/shade bases (you can lead and rap/lower off).

Sports Challenge: What's It To You (10d) is good, Clean and Jerk (10c) is perfect and you could lead or TR Disco Decoy (11b) and Hang & Swing (10d).

Hidden Arch is great and nearby is Winds of Whoopee (but funky downclimb).

I'd agree that Hot Rocks and Jumping Jack crack are good for what you are seeking.

Juan, my daughter grew up following me around Joshua tree climbing and exploring and sometimes the length of the approach has nothing to do with what the base is like for kids. Often times, it makes more sense to do a 1/2 mile hike to a perfect flat base at the climb instead of staying roadside and dealing with the hazardous landing.  I'd not recommend hot rocks for this reason.   

Juan Vargas wrote: Thanks for the suggestions. I'm fine with hiking; however, I'll be climbing in a group of three and I'm planning on bringing my 15 month old to hang around the base, thus the scrambling part.

Put them in a haul bag and you can go anywhere. Bring a little harness and anchor them down. 

I was going to make the same comment Randy did about Pat Adams Dihedral.  Also, Bendix Claws has not a long hike, but a hike (other good routes on that wall though), but I think it would be a sketchy lead if you're not solid at that grade.  

I remember the days when I just had one kid and could stick her in a backpack without much complaining.  Things got a lot trickier when she got older and some siblings.  Get out there while it's still easy.  

Thanks all for the suggestions. I’ll be sure to check those out! Hiking is not a problem for me as i am used to take her everywhere with me (good way to train those legs if you ask me) however, at the age she is in, she likes to scramble a lot with very little concern for falling and hurting herself. I also prefer something farther from the road or more obscure so as not to run into a queue waiting to try the route.

My wife and I climbed extensively with our young children (and infants). I'd highly recommend a collapsible playpen-tent type affair when they are this age. They can play and not get away or in trouble and be put most anywhere out of danger of rockfall or other dangers. Also, as soon as possible, invest in a child's helmet. I can tell you from personal experience that it is essential if you are climbing with young children in tow.

Randy wrote: My wife and I climbed extensively with our young children (and infants). I'd highly recommend a collapsible playpen-tent type affair when they are this age. They can play and not get away or in trouble and be put most anywhere out of danger of rockfall or other dangers. Also, as soon as possible, invest in a child's helmet. I can tell you from personal experience that it is essential if you are climbing with young children in tow.

Good advice.  I've seen others with those.  More to carry but you protect your precious cargo that much better.  Also keep it far enough from the base to avoid any falling objects.  A few years back a couple was climbing at Church Bowl in the Valley with their infant daughter at the base.  A rock fell and struck the child in the head and caused some very serious injuries.  Not to scare you or dissuade you, but the more you know the better the prevention. 

If you're the only climbers around be sure someone is with the kid at all times. A kid that size is coyote bait.

Here's one or you. I was hiking around out by Hermit Spire, just north of the Needles. I came across a toddler, in a play pen, alone, while mom and dad were doing two pitch climbs, leaving the kid defenseless in Mtn lion country. Hermit's not out on an arid ridge like the Needles proper, where you won't see anything bigger than a chipmunk or the occasional rattler. It's in the woods. I've seen Mtn lions in the general vicinity twice.

When they were back on the ground I gave them one hell of a talking to, and they just stood there and looked at me like I was nuts. Of course I must have looked like a nut, poking around alone out there yelling at people.

Kristian Solem wrote: If you're the only climbers around be sure someone is with the kid at all times. A kid that size is coyote bait.

Here's one or you. I was hiking around out by Hermit Spire, just north of the Needles. I came across a toddler, in a play pen, alone, while mom and dad were doing two pitch climbs, leaving the kid defenseless in Mtn lion country. Hermit's not out on an arid ridge like the Needles proper, where you won't see anything bigger than a chipmunk or the occasional rattler. It's in the woods. I've seen Mtn lions in the general vicinity twice.

When they were back on the ground I gave them one hell of a talking to, and they just stood there and looked at me like I was nuts. Of course I must have looked like a nut, poking around alone out there yelling at people.

Holy shit. That’s just plain irresponsible. A couple of years ago my partner and I were being followed by a large animal on the way down from Vodoo dome. We made some nose and the thing ran off. Never knew what is was

Kristian Solem wrote: If you're the only climbers around be sure someone is with the kid at all times. A kid that size is coyote bait.

Here's one or you. I was hiking around out by Hermit Spire, just north of the Needles. I came across a toddler, in a play pen, alone, while mom and dad were doing two pitch climbs, leaving the kid defenseless in Mtn lion country. Hermit's not out on an arid ridge like the Needles proper, where you won't see anything bigger than a chipmunk or the occasional rattler. It's in the woods. I've seen Mtn lions in the general vicinity twice.

When they were back on the ground I gave them one hell of a talking to, and they just stood there and looked at me like I was nuts. Of course I must have looked like a nut, poking around alone out there yelling at people.

Unbelievable.  I don’t want to turn this into a parent shaming thread (if it already isn’t one), but that poor kid is lucky to be OK.  I’ve been to Hermit twice and it’s a bit of work getting to the base.  I can’t imagine lugging a rope, rack, toddler and a playpen.  

Fat Dad wrote:

Unbelievable.  I don’t want to turn this into a parent shaming thread (if it already isn’t one), but that poor kid is lucky to be OK.  I’ve been to Hermit twice and it’s a bit of work getting to the base.  I can’t imagine lugging a rope, rack, toddler and a playpen.  

They were climbing on the west face, not all the way down at he bottom. It's a nice clean wall with a bunch of two/three pitch bolted routes. Mostly Mark Robinson put 'em up. Good routes. Not so bad to get to. The middle west face has bolted routes with straight forward rappels. 

There's certainly no attempt on my part to "parent shame" the op. Just a little heads up  all.

Overnight sensation fits the bill