Suggestions for Red Rock Multi-pitch Climbs with Short Approach (One Hour or Less)

I'm not a local and when I come to climb RR, I am limited to just a few days of climbing. Anyone have any suggestions on moderate multi-pitch trad climbing areas (up to 5.9) with a one hour or less approach and sunny for Feb climbing. Many of the climbs I've done have 1 1/2 - 2 hour hikes in and on this next trip I would rather hike shorter approaches. I remember Lotta Balls Wall being under an hour; I am aware of Solar Slab area as being a pleasant hike in and of course Calico (for mostly single pitch options) and Willow Springs, so no need to mention those. Thank you!

The Handren guidebook provides approach times. It's also a great guidebook.

Edit: Anything on Mescalito is under an hour.

At a 1.5 hour approach you can also do:
Jubilant song on Windy Peak
Armatron on the Brownstone Wall

I did those last week and they were warm and sunny. They're both exposed to the wind though, so watch the forecast.

At a 45 minute approach you can do:
Olive Oil
MisterZ (this can link with Armatron if you're a relatively fast climber)

In general stuff on the south faces of Juniper Canyon and Oak Creek Canyon will suit your needs.

FrankPS wrote: The Handren guidebook provides approach times. It's also a great guidebook.

Edit: Anything on Mescalito is under an hour.

I do have that guidebook. Thank you for your suggestions!

Angel Food Wall is home to several good climbs and is under an hour.

2nd for MysterZ!
Link it up with Sweet Thin for a long and fun filled day!
Alternatively, I did Birdland in January, which was not as long, but also super fun (don't do the final pitch though)

Man everyone is being helpful and not one person has given the best advice;
"If you want a shorter approach, hike faster"
             -Tradiban

Josh Rappoport wrote: 2nd for MysterZ!
Link it up with Sweet Thin for a long and fun filled day!
Alternatively, I did Birdland in January, which was not as long, but also super fun (don't do the final pitch though)

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I climbed MysterZ in Nov and Birdland in Oct. 

Jon Hillis wrote: Man everyone is being helpful and not one person has given the best advice;
"If you want a shorter approach, hike faster"
             -Tradiban

Hello, and thank you for that. Here's the deal: I am not the fastest hiker and I own that; I'm also usually twice the age (if not more) of the people I climb with, and I started climbing really late in life so I know my limitations and are honest about them. I'd prefer a shorter approach than to spend a long time getting somewhere and have less climbing time, especially if I'm not able to hike as fast as someone half my age. I have climbed 24 multi-pitch routes in RR in the past few years I started climbing, including a recent follow of Epinephrine, to the summit,  just six months post total hip replacement surgery, and about 50 single pitch. So, I hear Tradiban and that is very sound advice; I don't ever want to hold someone back from their climbing day by being too slow to get to a climb so I always let people know up front....and for this trip, I would like to keep the approaches short to maximize climbing time. 

I hike at a nice pace, right alongside any of the partners I've climbed with, on flat ground. I slow down when it comes to steep ascending and on descents; not so much on gully scrambling but on the steep hikes down where there is loose rock and dirt; I am a more cautious hiker in those descent conditions. I do use carbon Z-poles which help.

On another note, I have recently found out who Tradiban is and I've been told if I can ever get to climb with him in Tahquitz it would be a great experience as he is a strong climber. Since Tahquitz is one of my go to places as I live in Los Angeles, I hope to finally get to meet the guy.

Arrow Place 5.9 on Burlap Buttress is  good and faces east for morning sunshine. Handren guide gives it a 35 minute approach... Brass Balls on Brass Wall has a 5.9 version if you start in the chimney around to the right of the first pitch (instead of the 10d roof.) It is gloriously sunny and uncrowded...... If you come when it is warmer, get on Dark Shadows. In my opinion it is the prettiest route in Red Rock.

I'm not sure Angel Food wall is the best choice, just because the walk-off is eternal / technical.

Sheri W wrote:

Hello, and thank you for that. Here's the deal: I am not the fastest hiker and I own that; I'm also usually twice the age (if not more) of the people I climb with, and I started climbing really late in life so I know my limitations and are honest about them. I'd prefer a shorter approach than to spend a long time getting somewhere and have less climbing time, especially if I'm not able to hike as fast as someone half my age. I have climbed 24 multi-pitch routes in RR in the past few years I started climbing, including a recent follow of Epinephrine, to the summit,  just six months post total hip replacement surgery, and about 50 single pitch. So, I hear Tradiban and that is very sound advice; I don't ever want to hold someone back from their climbing day by being too slow to get to a climb so I always let people know up front....and for this trip, I would like to keep the approaches short to maximize climbing time. 

On another note, I have recently found out who Tradiban is and I've been told if I can ever get to climb with him in Tahquitz it would be a great experience as he is a strong climber. Since Tahquitz is one of my go to places as I live in Los Angeles, I hope to finally get to meet the guy.

Awesome response! haha. you climb harder than me and probably hike faster. I was just yanking yer chain. 

I really enjoyed Saddle Up.  The approach isn't very long, but when the route ends, you 3rd class up to the base of Brownstone and then do the usual Juniper Gully descent, so the descent does take a while. The second pitch has the crux (nice climbing), the other pitches are easier and very fun.

Jon Hillis wrote:

Awesome response! haha. you climb harder than me and probably hike faster. I was just yanking yer chain. 

It's okay. I thought it was funny. I recently finally found out who Tradiban is. He lives in Idyllwild where I climb at Tahquitz. I was told if I can ever get to climb with him it would be a great opportunity as he is a very strong climber. I've seen his posts all over but never knew who he was.

phylp phylp wrote: I really enjoyed Saddle Up.  The approach isn't very long, but when the route ends, you 3rd class up to the base of Brownstone and then do the usual Juniper Gully descent, so the descent does take a while. The second pitch has the crux (nice climbing), the other pitches are easier and very fun.

Hi Phylp. We still haven't climbed together! I climbed MysterZ last Nov and do know the descent. We had wanted to link to Armatron but decided against it. The descent was especially long because we got off route, somehow and ended up bushwhacking for awhile.

Diet Delight is super fun and pretty cowboy at 5.9. Also, only a 20 minute approach.

Sheri W wrote:

It's okay. I thought it was funny. I recently finally found out who Tradiban is. He lives in Idyllwild where I climb at Tahquitz. I was told if I can ever get to climb with him it would be a great opportunity as he is a very strong climber. I've seen his posts all over but never knew who he was.

I have yet to climb with him even though I do like to visit his kingdom of Tahq. I hope to soon though. I have the Tradi hotline saved just in case I need a beer mid pitch.

+1 for Angel food wall. Tunnel Vision is the best multi pitch I've ever done. Approach is not too long.

Zay Ban wrote: I cant thank the kind posters in this thread enough for offering such helpful advice. I too am planning on a road trip, including a short stop in red rocks for my first time. Epi has been a dream of mine for years, but my partner is recovering from a broken arm (she just had her cast taken off the other day). Solar slab is in the cross hairs, but if anyone else has a nice suggestion we are grateful to hear it.

Hard to say what she'll be able to climb with a broken arm, but solar slab is a good idea (but its not a friction slab if her arm hasn't fully healed). If you are really worried about her arm, Bridge Mountain is a super fun desert mountaineering adventure, especially if you approach up Pine Creek Canyon. You can do the 5.5 route or just the improbably 3rd class up the back... super fun if you like remote hiking/scrambling and you will certainly miss the crowds. Cat in the Hat is a good but crowded 5.6 with an easier retreat than Solar Slab to test her arm on. Frogland is not nearly as long as Epinephrine but in the same area/similar feel minus the chimneys if other climbing goes well. Crux is a slab traverse if I remember correctly and most everything else is 5.6/5.7.

Sheri W wrote:

Hi Phylp. We still haven't climbed together! 

I know!  I saw your post for partners for this trip but the timing didn't work for me.  I haven't forgotten that I want to connect!

Another vote for tunnel vision.  So much fun.   Group therapy is next door and is easier climbing but long runouts.

I did the first 4 pitches of dark shadows 5.8 recently and that was a good route with nice pro.