Viral Reddit Post about Ondra's Knee Bars on Silence

For some quality entertainment, read the replies on this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/nextfuckinglevel/comments/f6v69n/pro_climber_uses_a_kneebar_to_bring_blood_back_to/ 

OMG, thank you for this. Super entertaining.

"This might seem like a stupid question but if no one else has climbed it then how was it made? Wouldn't you need to climb it to build it?"

"Trained his calf for months on this specific move."

"funny they called it Silence eh..he's like the loudest climber ever"

"I don't get it. I'm sure for him it's just like doing it 5 ft off the ground. However my paralyzing fear of heights gave me vertigo when i saw that and i almost fell walking down the steps."

"He clipped just every second bolt further up. Because there are not so many holds you can hold with one hand. Actually I read that he just caries 2 tiny pieces of chalk to save weight. In this position the crushes one of those two and uses it."

"No thanks I choose life"

"Yeah OK, and I’m the one suffering elbow tendonosis."

So good. Tendonosis FTW?

...

No wait, just found this: "I was expecting him to have some metal rod strapped to his knee so he could rub his forearms on it."

...

Ok, last one I promise... "How you manage a maneuver like that and still look like an actor from a soylent commercial is beyond me"

The blind leading the blind.

I like how it is easily one of the most common moves that he does on that route that goes viral... Like dude I did a one leg bat hang at the gym the other day brah… I couldn't get back up and ended up falling after about 2 seconds but still, compared to that toe wedge in the crack insanity he does later this is pretty pedestrian.

Geez.
At least he should clip the quickdraw in front of his face before he did the kneebar rest.
I've used a kneebar rest many times to rest my hands and arms. but not like the one he is doing.

A classic kneebar rest is on the climb at JTREE called, "Course and Buggy"
The kneebar rest is right near the top before you do the finishing overhanging lieback, and finishing  left hand jug.

Bouldiban TK wrote:

...and compared to the deadpoint into the mono-finger lock undercling...my personal favorite

Ah yes... another move that makes me wonder how you even start to think of doing it. My fingers hate monos though.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: Geez.
At least he should clip the quickdraw in front of his face before he did the kneebar rest.
I've used a kneebar rest many times to rest my hands and arms. but not like the one he is doing.

A classic kneebar rest is on the climb at JTREE called, "Course and Buggy"
The kneebar rest is right near the top before you do the finishing overhanging lieback, and finishing  left hand jug.

Bro. You just ruined my onsite....

Gumby the White wrote:

Bro. You just ruined my onsite....

But you will thank me when you get to that section and see the lieback. You WILL want to rest your arms!

Edit:The first time I did C and B after my knee surgery my knee brace got stuck in it and it took me a while to get in unstuck
Thang goodness I didn't have to get rescued from that Awkward position. I had plugged in a piece at the first part of the lieback above me so I had a little help from the rope and belayer to get unstuck
After that I had to use my left leg for the kneebar which is a little bit harder to do.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: But you will thank me when you get to that section and see the lieback. You WILL want to rest your arms!

LOL. My first time on the route I missed all of the jugs out on the left and continued liebacking out right hahaha. I was like no way this is 5.10.

The next time on the route I was like how the hell did I miss all of these jugs!?!?!! Good times on a stellar route.

Gumby the White wrote:

LOL. My first time on the route I missed all of the jugs out on the left and continued liebacking out right hahaha. I was like no way this is 5.10.

The next time on the route I was like how the hell did I miss all of these jugs!?!?!! Good times on a stellar route.

It's 11a/b
The lieback going up diagonal  right IS the Route.
There is a nice Jug for the left hand at the top of the route to topout

Doing laps on TR After the time I got my knee brace stuck

This thread occupied most of my afternoon.  Pretty amazing stuff in there!