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Chalk for Alpine Climbing?

Original Post
Martin Brzozowski · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 120

Looking to do some alpine routes this summer. I feel like chalk isn’t necessary for moderate climbing, but maybe for harder routes? What else do you leave behind or bring along?

P Degner · · anywhere · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 263

Bring sunglasses that you don't mind getting scratched up

Cosmic Charlie · · Washington · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Chalk is a preference.  I bring it on everything because I tend to sweat quite a bit.  I always bring layers, food, water, sunnies, and approach shoes.  Anything else will depend on the climb and how long I'll be away from my car/camp.

Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276

Chalk is a great psychological boost. One dip is equivalent to about 7 "come on, you got this" 's.

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

Consider using water purification tablets or a lightweight water filter instead of lugging all your water all the way from the car to the climb. If your pack is heavy you can save a few pounds with a ultra lightweight pack. 

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,763

Martin, you might try going without chalk on your usual rock-climbing outings, see how you do.

I used to be compulsive about chalking, then I just left the chalk bag at home one day and haven't used it since. My argument for not using it is that I probably climb faster without it. Instead of lingering on a hard sequence, I just go for it.

In the alpine, I bring extra lengths of 1/2" or 9/16" tubular webbing for anchors. 

Bug Boy · · Boulder, CO :( · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

The weight is worth the psychological boost for me, especially soloing. To each their own though.

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798

You don't need it until you need it

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Since MP can't come to an agreeance on what alpine climbing is, the answer is, "It depends"

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476
Andy Eiter wrote: Chalk is a great psychological boost. One dip is equivalent to about 7 "come on, you got this" 's.

It works so well I use it on slabs with 0 handholds. Honestly. 

ThomasR · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

seconding a light filter or tablets for water if there's a water source. saves weight

also- a tiny knife, extra webbing for rap/bail anchors, a buff, and i prefer to have chalk for "alpine" rock climbing

Ryan Mac · · Durango, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1
Long Ranger wrote: Since MP can't come to an agreeance on what alpine climbing is, the answer is, "It depends"

I thought we came to the general consensus that "If you can kill your partner and no one will ask any questions, then you're alpine climbing" was the definition?

ADAM GRANT · · CHUBBUCK · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 422

S.O.L. Makes a very small bivy bag. It fits in the palm of your hand. It weighs nothing and takes up no room in your pack. Infect you will forget it is in there until you need it then it is the greatest thing you forgot you had.

Side note: Two adults can fit into one bag. Picture squeezing your neighbors cow Birtha into a shiny pair of orange spandex. Said spandex will be stretched to the max, uncomfortable, awkward, nothing you want to write home about but they will keep you around to tell the story after a few beers around a camp fire. 

Oooh and chalk is my binkie so I bring it.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
ADAM GRANT wrote:.... they will keep you around to tell the story after a few bears around a camp fire. 
Under those circumstances, usually the only ones left to tell the story are the bears...
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

I know this goes against the grain of many an adamant belief to the contrary, but chalk is just simply not needed anywhere unless it’s hot, humid, and the climb is north of 5.10.  

As Andy and others stated, it IS totally a psychological “Binkie”.....

Taking a dip is just something  more polite to do in public with that free hand when taking a “rest”.

ADAM GRANT · · CHUBBUCK · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 422
Mark Pilate wrote: Under those circumstances, usually the only ones left to tell the story are the bears...

The joys of not proof reading! lol

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798

Chalk is handy when climbing routes that seep or have standing water on ledges. Sometimes wiping your hands on your clothes doesn't do the trick. I also carry my phone and a can of long cut in my chalkbag. 

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Interesting topic, I cannot see myself climbing sport routes without chalk.
On the other hand I never take chalk when alpine climbing, I think mainly for 3 reasons, first I don't sweat that much at altitude and second I never climb alpine route that are at my limit or even above it, which is something I routinely do while sport climbing and I also think that having to place the pro, climb with mountaineering boots and with a pack on is enough to suck me dry, literally ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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