Partner(s) for Sport Climbing at Massacre Rocks, Idaho

Looking for motivated climbing partners to crush steep basalt climbs at Massacre Rocks, Idaho this spring season. Bolt clipping heaven that place is! Have van and willing to drive. its about 2.5 hrs and has around 800 bolted sport climbs. Punch the go button.

Did I mention dog friendly and no fees for camping or access?

Sounds awesome, I would love to climb some basalt.  When ya thinking about going?

Hi Ben--Traditionally I shoot for St Patrick's Day as the season opener. I'm putting the "pre-stoke" out there to recruit and train with partners. Check the site out on here, keeping in mind not all routes/areas are listed. Been climbing there since the early '90s.  

I’ll be out that way towards the end of April if anyone is around.

Chad--sounds good. I will keep you in the loop--FE

Would be stoked to meet some partners with 4x4.  The paddle across the lake can be a PITA

Thanks for the reply Matt--sounds like you have been there before. I have not done the river crossing in many years, but remember it was at times a pain. When I drive I usually take my '86 Vanagon that has good ground clearance. I have seen a few Honda civics in the parking area though. 

Getting back there in a civic is impressive.  The sand swallowed my transit connect to the frame.

Get the brand new Underground Idaho book by Dave Bingham. There's other stuff out there now, a new area nearby, and potential access issues at Massacre to stay up to date on. The new book is really excellent! Same format as the City guide, with lots of fun stuff! It's also probably the best book if the Fins interests you.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118277486/teddy-bear-cove

Best, Helen

OLH--I have the new book and it's a good one. looking forward to checking some of the other nearby areas out--FE

Fast Eddie McBradish wrote: OLH--I have the new book and it's a good one. looking forward to checking some of the other nearby areas out--FE

Teddy bear cove is much easier access, from what I've heard. Massacre is also slated to have a lot of bolts removed, but no one is sure when that will happen. With that book, you'll also have info on some of the other lesser known places, some pretty fun! It's also good to spread the use out.

Dunno when you're thinking of going, but there's still snow to consider, then impassable mudfests, lol!

Best, Helen

All the more reason to go now before these routes are gone forever. If you don't mind me asking where or who gave you info on this? I've been looking for an answer to this for some time--FE

I'm in Ogden. Shoot me a message if you're ever in need of a partner for the weekend. Short drive away and I've never been there before!

Fast Eddie McBradish wrote: All the more reason to go now before these routes are gone forever. If you don't mind me asking where or who gave you info on this? I've been looking for an answer to this for some time--FE

Someone who has been deeply involved with southern Idaho access issues for ages. Doing the long, hard, thankless slogging work the rest of us benefit from. Contact the MP admin for Massacre via pm, if you really need to know, or the conversation would help you with whatever is going on in your neck of the woods. 

Idaho climbing is almost entirely on public land, which means access will always be highly dependant on staying on the good side of land managers. Proactive partnerships are key. My favorite example is City of Rocks/Castle Rock. Most climbers are totally unaware of the coalition of interests that work to keep the place together. And, as us usually the case with these things, it's the same small group...for decades. When you have the opportunity to meet these people, my areas or yours, say thank you! BTW, MP admins often are those who've put the work into these places we all love.

Best, Helen

OLH--I wrote the Access Fund and got the whole skinny on the situation. Currently tangled up in red tape it seems. As you mentioned CoR, I was visiting that place when the only access issue was who was going to get out of the truck and open the barbed wire gate. I personally witnessed, and participated, in the entire event that lead up to management. To be honest, I'm surprised  that Massacre Rocks  was not put under management long ago. That time may be soon. Anyway, until then it is sure a sweet sport climbing area.--FE

For the record, I have a 4x4 tahoe and don't mind driving.  It only gets 15 mpg but it's pretty hard to get stuck.

Ben--Sounds good, Lets make this a go! 

Fast Eddie McBradish wrote: OLH--I wrote the Access Fund and got the whole skinny on the situation. Currently tangled up in red tape it seems. As you mentioned CoR, I was visiting that place when the only access issue was who was going to get out of the truck and open the barbed wire gate. I personally witnessed, and participated, in the entire event that lead up to management. To be honest, I'm surprised  that Massacre Rocks  was not put under management long ago. That time may be soon. Anyway, until then it is sure a sweet sport climbing area.--FE

Well, I am an optimist, and take the long view. When a place is touted by Dave Bingham as the best sport climbing in Idaho? That needs to be preserved. Right now, terrible road, camp with the cows, no infrastructure at all..... It's a big bunch of bolts to be removed, but, a big bunch still there. 

So? Climbing is very much on the radar now, in southern Idaho. Fortunately, there are good climbing coalitions here, and good people who understand the long, slow, work of partnerships with multiple entities. COR is our shining example of how this can work. IMO, the days are gone of anyplace in the lower 48 thinking it can just be "off the radar" for a management plan. All of it must be taken care of, with an eye to the future! If Idaho is on the map, so is everyplace else, soon enough.

Best, Helen

Interested in a conditions report if anybody makes it to Massacre or City of Rocks in the next month. I’ve got a trip planned for end of March and would like to know how the melt is going. Thanks.

Massacre will be in its prime, CoR will be cold/snow/rain. If you go to CoR after April 15 you can also hike ski Pomerelle ski area for a few laps.