Nose in a day (NIAD) 8 months from now - is it realistic

kevin deweese wrote:

[A crushing and well-reasoned argument on why this shit probably ain't gonna fly.]

Damnit Kevin! I'm trying to support the dream! Let me go back to telling people to climb the Crucifix as their third ever trad lead in peace.

Wow, never expected this many responses so quicly, so first of all a massive thanks to all of you - Got really great insights from most of your comments (And even the ones who said it isn't realistic encouraged me to try which is awesome).

Some answers to some of your questions:
1.Partner - This issue isn't yet resolved. Iv'e got several in my caliver which are interested, but as you guys mentioned I better get a really psyched up partner (or a very expirienced one) - which I still didn't manage to point on the right man or woman for the job. So probably no, not a very experienced partner but someone roughly in my level (ofc I'll try to aim for someone a little bit more qualified than me)
2."Why am I rushing it" - I just like taking myself to the limit of my capabilities. Ofc if I wont get it this season, I will come back for another try.

A small follow-up question - Iv'e found several guides and this topo regarding the route. Is there any information source which goes really into details about the route, step by step? Is "the road to the nose" book the answer to this question?

Again thanks for all the comments regarding the preperation period and tips, you guys are awesome!

Sirius wrote:

Damnit Kevin! I'm trying to support the dream! Let me go back to telling people to climb the Crucifix as their third ever trad lead in peace.

Only if we convince them to gopro it! After all, getting on the weekend whipper post is way more fulfilling than a NIAD anyways!

Forget the book and just go climbing. You will need a solid partner who knows how to move fast. You have a month in the Valley to prepare, so that's a big plus, and don't try to get step by step details, it ruins the experience.

Hans Florine's speed climbing book has a whole section on NIAD which includes a topo specific to doing it in a day, if I recall correctly.

Hans actually has a big Nose beta download available on his site https://www.hansflorine.com/?page_id=252
Costs $18. Scroll all the way down to the product called “How to Climb the Nose Better and Faster”. I used this product in 2015 when training for the NIAD. I found it incredibly helpful. He includes very detailed annotated topos, 80 min of audio files in which he breaks down the entire route, and lots of other useful info.

I don't think it's a good idea to just throw yourself at it, without trad experience, wall experience, or aid. I've done a NIAD and other walls. It's not going to be glorious if you actually top out because you won't crush it, you will be scraping by.  Prepare for it until you don't have to ask if it's a good idea from random people on the internet.  

You lack long route and trad skills and you’ve never climbed on granite (and therefore in Yosemite).

The Nose in Day is a LONG TRAD route on GRANITE.

You sport climb 12a,b. Yeah well, not in the Valley you don’t.

Monkeys may fly out of my butt and you might climb the Nose in a day 8 months from now. I’m not putting money on either one happening.

Keep me posted though, I’ll buy you a beer if you succeed.

Good luck!

dindolino32 wrote: I don't think it's a good idea to just throw yourself at it, without trad experience, wall experience, or aid. I've done a NIAD and other walls. It's not going to be glorious if you actually top out because you won't crush it, you will be scraping by.  Prepare for it until you don't have to ask if it's a good idea from random people on the internet.  

100%. 

Yosemite climbing is a different beast. Match that with the requirement of applying free/french-free & IAD/hybrid wall techniques. On top of lacking the basic requisite traditional climbing skills. And doing it all with a sense of urgency!

I'm all for pushing your potential, but there are plenty of big proud routes in the Valley that will test your mettle. Adding another less-than-proficient team to the Nose conga line...

If you’ve only climbed 4 trad pitches ever, why is this a goal of your’s?  Why not do some trad climbing first and see how much of it you actually want to do before putting in the mileage to try 34 long trad pitches in a day.  

You know, I’m sorry to say, but this is a little bit of a WTF? question.

I’m sure you’re all excited and you have read about it all the time and somebody did it in an hour and a half and how hard can it be and all that, but you have NO relevant experience. None!

I’m not accusing you of this but is seems to me that a lot of climbers these days don’t have a real honest assessment of their skills. That and they don’t respect the route. The Nose is not exactly easy and surely there is someone out there who started climbing at some weirdo place and did the NIAD after having climbed for a only a year but are you that guy? Are you so gifted that things just come to you at first glance?

There have been many excellent responses from some very well heeled climbers.

And so, there you have it. - but just in case - given the standard level comprehension  that seems to dominate around here lately
(& I wish I had some of whatever y'alls smoking!)

Y'all prove my suspicions of the current result that 'Fad-Climbers' are having across the spectrum. Also, more proof is demonstrated by the humble-brag spray, along with the actual phrasing of the question to elicit the "Go For It"  response from those who show the same lack of understanding & so too the lack of cognitive-thinking skills required to be successful on almost any route on 'Big-Stone, whether in multiple days, never mind (N)IAD or any route on the 'Captain'.
Please think & do not add to the well-known 'Fluster-Clux' that is now regularly experienced lower( Below Dolt?) on the 'Nose'.

I certainly have not read all of this ~ That said, I know that way back in the day, before cams -(&with@least one climbing in EBs) 2 teenagers (16&17) came from slimy limestone climbing roots in eastern Canada & did the Nose in 2 days
 As others have said are you that guy? no reason not to try hard but be honest with yourself, consider that the 'basic climbing' is not the only challenge.
I had hoped that the following quote from the 1st page would have been given more attention.

kevin deweese wrote: 

A gym climber taking a month to learn how to effectively place trad gear in rock they've never climbed on before well enough to both lead and pull on that gear in a single day on a massive route that is 5x longer than their longest SPORT multipitch where they'll need to utilize aid following systems that they've  never encountered where learning those systems are going to cut into the time in the valley they'll need to use to get competent on trad placements and leading? 

Now add in rest days. 

Add in dealing with bivy issues if they arrive after May 1st when the camping limit is 14 days (assuming they're able to reserve a spot in one of the car camping sites, otherwise they'll need to fight for a camp 4 spot which the process alone is going to cut out a few days of climbing  just to get to those 14 days) 

Add in extra time needed to deal with the cluster-F in the lower pitches on the Nose that is basically a traffic jam of climbers who gum up the belays so much that even climbing through them is like burrowing through a briar patch.

Add in the fact that they'll be short fixing so communication is going to be crap as they encounter all the fun bigwall weirdness that you can't prepare for. And let's be serious, with their lack of experience in trad climbing granite cracks they're going to pull on and place more gear than they expect to due to their lack of experience so they won't be short fixing because when they get to the next anchor, all the gear that would have gotten them into the next pitch is going to be locked up in the pitch they just finished. 

And tbh again, starting your first week in Yosemite on rock you're not used to placing gear you're not competent in placing on a 10+ pitch route over 5.10 on almost every single day? And try not to French anything, all clean sending? They don't even know how to place gear and what they do know they've obviously not had the mileage to actually test those placements. Dial in your technique? You have to learn it before you dial it. 
I still say go for it because there's nothing like failure on your first try to get you closer to the summit on the next, but a month to go from zero to hero (unless their partner is going to be a competent and experienced Yosemite climber which I doubt since if they were this question would have been answered by them and not posed to us) is a pipe dream. 

While not the most diplomatic voice, I think this place was better with his input

Mark Hudon wrote: You know, I’m sorry to say, but this is a little bit of a WTF? question.

I’m sure you’re all excited and you have read about it all the time and somebody did it in an hour and a half and how hard can it be and all that, but you have NO relevant experience. None!

I’m not accusing you of this but is seems to me that a lot of climbers these days don’t have a real honest assessment of their skills. That and they don’t respect the route. The Nose is not exactly easy and surely there is someone out there who started climbing at some weirdo place and did the NIAD after having climbed for a only a year but are you that guy? Are you so gifted that things just come to you at first glance?

This site, run by Erik Sloan (who has climbed El Cap100+ times!) has a nice route topo with annotations for Nose in a Day.
Below is page 1, Visit his website to see page 2.

Apparently you can also rent a portaledge from him for a very modest price.
You of course won't need this if you're trying it in a day, but it may be helpful on another route.
https://store.yosemitebigwall.com/portaledge-equipment-rental/

Also, this article should help a bit. (Disclaimer, it's mine.)

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/25-tips-for-faster-aid-climbing

revans90 wrote: Part of making short fixing (aka running the pdl ( Pakistani death loop) safe is not falling.

Short fixing and running a PDL are not the same thing. 

You won't need 8 months if you plan to do it in a day. A day is 24 hours and it would be hard to fit 8 months into that time frame. 

Eric Santos wrote: You won't need 8 months if you plan to do it in a day. A day is 24 hours and it would be hard to fit 8 months into that time frame. 

Perfect.... Dumb & Dumber

Headed for being dumb & a bummer.

 It may not be a foregone conclusion that a new to climbing strong driven novice exhibiting that special mix of the complete lack of humility mixed with youthful hubris could do an extreme ascent.

@OP

What does "7b sport climber" mean?

E.g., "once I sent a 7b route after projecting it like forever". Or maybe "it usually takes 3 to 4 attempts to send a 7b route". Or maybe "I am able to flash like every second 7b I attempt to".

The difference in between the first and the last propositions is huge. Although they both are more or less legit "I am a 7b climber" propositions.