Single bolt?

Exploring around a weird little park in the Bay Area, CA and I came across a little overgrown crag. Maybe 25’, sketchy boulders at bottom, and mellow top out - maybe a 5.9.

There is only one bolt on the whole crag and it’s 3/4 to the top when the angle eases up and gets easier. I hunted and there are no other bolts. a few big boulders on top that you could probably put a sling around, but why just one bolt? And why in that spot?

Wondering if people climb it using slings and that bolt is just a backup? Why not place another so you have an anchor?

Thanks knuckleheads

Glacial Indifference wrote: There is only one bolt on the whole crag and it’s 3/4 to the top when the angle eases up and gets easier. I hunted and there are no other bolts. a few big boulders on top that you could probably put a sling around, but why just one bolt? And why in that spot?

Don't know.

Could the lower part be protected on lead with gear, the clip the bolt and finish?

Or maybe someone meant to extend an anchor from the boulders on top, and also attach more directly to that bolt and belay from above?  

If the answer to the first question is no, I'd guess the second is the case if the terrain between the bolt and the top is a relatively easy scramble.

And, sometimes, bolt installers sometimes make poor decisions - especially beginners at it (like me).

Berkeley? Across and up the street from that really popular place? Been there for years.

Newp. Other side of the bay.

A protected move on a boulder problem. Obviously need a belayer

Bill Lawry wrote:

Don't know.

Could the lower part be protected on lead with gear, the clip the bolt and finish?

Or maybe someone meant to extend an anchor from the boulders on top, and also attach more directly to that bolt and belay from above?  

If the answer to the first question is no, I'd guess the second is the case if the terrain between the bolt and the top is a relatively easy scramble.

And, sometimes, bolt installers sometimes make poor decisions - especially beginners at it (like me).

Pretty ignorant when it comes to gear placement but I think there are some large cracks between the boulders that make up the lower section. I’ll take some photos on a hike today and update.

Well shit. Hiked I out there again and there are two bolts! Missed that left one last time.

It looks like the climb would be up a small arete with a mellow and walk-off top out. The cracks and little caves on the left of the arete I though could hold gear have more water and ferns than I expected and probably can’t be climbed all year.

I guess my next questions are:

1. Bolts look safe enough for a TR anchor?
2. Can I clean this spot up well enough to climb and not damage too much of the ecology?
3. If it’s cleanable and goes, then what are the ethics behind naming and grading it? I’ve researched and found no mention of climbing in this park. This spot is pretty hidden.
4. What type of rock is it?

Could be a recon bolt

Bump - tell me if it’s safe to climb this thing!

Looks like some of the chossy cliffsides up around Sutro Tower. I mean... as a route, it looks pretty lame to me. But if i were bored i’d climb it. Throw some cordage and lockers on those bolts and rap into it. Guaranteed it’s been named and graded, just probably not good enough to be posted anywhere.

Glacial Indifference wrote: Bump - tell me if it’s safe to climb this thing!

It may be safe for some and not for others.  A lot depends on the person.

When I do not know that the risk and / or consequences are low enough for myself, I don’t climb. 

Glacial Indifference wrote: Bump - tell me if it’s safe to climb this thing!

That sounds like a very personal decision. Not trying to be snarky, it really should depend on your acceptable level of risk not what someone says in an online forum. 

Ben VanderStouw wrote:

That sounds like a very personal decision. Not trying to be snarky, it really should depend on your acceptable level of risk not what someone says in an online forum. 

I'm simply asking for look at the metal and tell me if you think it's going to break. Then I'll apply that info to my " personal acceptable level of risk".

I'm not asking if I should have that threesome with my gf and her hot friend. Take 'er easy.

PS - Rapped it, cleaned it, climbed it. If anyone is looking for a super-secret piece of shit 5.7 and some tick bites DM me.