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Dan Rapp
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Jan 31, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
I was climbing with a couple friends the other day, both of witch are trying to get their single pitch instructor certificate. They told me they expect to fail the final exam, as nearly 70% do. They both spent a lot of money for the course and plan to spend a lot for the final. Can anyone comment on this? It seems the instructor is over charging, and under teaching, basically ripping my friends off
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Insert name
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Jan 31, 2020
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Harts Location
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 58
Dan Rapp wrote: I was climbing with a couple friends the other day, both of witch are trying to get their single pitch instructor certificate. They told me they expect to fail the final exam, as nearly 70% do. They both spent a lot of money for the course and plan to spend a lot for the final. Can anyone comment on this? It seems the instructor is over charging, and under teaching, basically ripping my friends off Instructors in a Guide course (or any course) can’t teach you everything. It is your responsibility to practice and develop skills just like any other career it takes more than a simple class to pass a test. Most people aren’t ready to progress into a career like guiding/rope Access and think because they take a course they deserve to have these skills.
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Dan Rapp
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Jan 31, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
Is 70% the norm? And how many time are the students allowed to retake the exam? Thanks again for the input.
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Ryan Dresser
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Jan 31, 2020
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Mar 2017
· Points: 81
Just curious, where is the course being held and how much are they charging?
I did a LOT of prep work before my course, and even more work before I took my final exam. Its not a gimmie. But with some studying and some time on the ropes, it should be no big deal.
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Insert name
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Jan 31, 2020
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Harts Location
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 58
Dan Rapp wrote: Is 70% the norm? And how many time are the students allowed to retake the exam? Thanks again for the input. I can’t imagien the Exam failure rate being 70% (Unless highly unqualified people are taking the test). and you just have to pay and take the exam again if you fail. Do you know what he is struggling with?
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sandrock
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Jan 31, 2020
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 200
If you review the materials and are prepared the exam itself is pretty easy. Everyone in my group passed.
But it's not just a climbing exam, you need to be profecient at safe anchors, rigging, rescue and client skills.
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x15x15
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Jan 31, 2020
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Use Ignore Button
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 280
The few I know got it first try. But they also had tons of rope work/ climbing experience. They just had to fine tune their skills to satisfy the guide way...
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Dan Rapp
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Jan 31, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
I think they are taking exam at sand rock alabama. I dont know what aspects they are struggling with. Its just the failure rate seems to reflect poorly on the instructor.
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curt86iroc
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Jan 31, 2020
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 274
why do they want to take the exam? are they trying to become guides?
i only ask because if they are just taking the course for knowledge, don't waste your time with the test.
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John Penca
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Jan 31, 2020
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North Little Rock
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
curt86iroc wrote: why do they want to take the exam? are they trying to become guides?
i only ask because if they are just taking the course for knowledge, don't waste your time with the test. Was kinda wondering the same thing. What does one do with an SPI certificate?
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J B
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Jan 31, 2020
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Cambridge, MA
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 20
John Penca wrote: Was kinda wondering the same thing. What does one do with an SPI certificate? With an SPI you can get paid to take clients top roping on rock (while working for a legitimate, insured guiding company). I think they might be able to take people top roping on ice too. SPI is what most instructors at at gym -> crag events like the ones REI runs would have.
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Gunkiemike
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Jan 31, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
John Penca wrote: Was kinda wondering the same thing. What does one do with an SPI certificate? Throw it away after 3 years? (it expires)
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Bobby Hutton
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Jan 31, 2020
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West Slope
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 1,164
I have never heard that 70% failure rate number before. I passed it the first time and passed my recert (with a different provider) both times the whole class passed. My impression is that they do everything they can to get you to the level of competence where you can pass the test. I have experienced a very high level of professionalism with all the providers I have worked with even the one I I didn't get along with.
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Insert name
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Jan 31, 2020
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Harts Location
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 58
Bobby Hutton wrote: I have never heard that 70% failure rate number before. I passed it the first time and passed my recert (with a different provider) both times the whole class passed. My impression is that they do everything they can to get you to the level of competence where you can pass the test. I have experienced a very high level of professionalism with all the providers I have worked with even the one I I didn't get along with. I second this. I know of 4 people who don’t belong guiding anyone that have their SPI. Two friends I know did fail. (One ties a mule knot wrong & the other wasn’t tied off or something). That being said everything in the SPI criteria is super basic (top/bottom belay, basic toprope anchoring, basic Rescue, basic haul, releaseable rappel, etc). If you can’t perform these things and want to be a guide, you should really focus on learning these things as they are the core fundamentals for any Traditional climber and are the bare minimum you should feel Comfortable doing as a “professional”. If they don’t want to be a guide, forget the exam and just practice off what you were taught. My major issue with the AMGA, IRATA, SPRAT, etc is they have instructors pushing to many inexperienced people through and bigger companies hire these people in positions of responsibility.
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Greg Davis
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Jan 31, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 10
Depends on who gives the exams. Some examiners are extremely tough and pride themselves on failing as many people as possible. Others are so lax it makes you wonder why we have these standards in the first place. Unfortunately I haven't seen much from the AMGA in terms of a consistent standard so you'll have to roll the dice. If you are in California I recommend Bob Gaines or Nelson Day, they are great and objectively there to provide the service.
Had one exam where 5 of 6 of us failed... I took too long to build an anchor and failed because of that. Passed with flying colors 2 weeks later with another examiner.
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M Mobley
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Jan 31, 2020
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
Its a millennial problem, they think taking a class with good attendance gets them a pass. Cant blame them though, 1 it hurts their feelings and 2 thats what their schooling did to them.
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Kevin Mokracek
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Jan 31, 2020
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Burbank
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 378
The SPI allows you to tell others you are an SPI. It's kinda like Crossfit.
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Mark Pilate
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Jan 31, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 25
Fun Police wrote: Intelligence is normally distributed in respect to overall population. The problem here, is that 50% of people think they’re above the average. Uhhhh....that 50% is correct (Unless yer gonna split hairs, 49.99%)
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Rob Fulton
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Jan 31, 2020
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Littleton, CO
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 11
70% actually sounds about right. I think its a huge cop out to say that these #s fall on the instructor and his curriculum though. I have been climbing and instructing for years and was surprised by some of the things needed for the SPI. 30% passing doesn't mean anything about the course other than their standard of quality they look for to succeed. It can be a humbling reminder that our friends, as well as our selves, might not be as cool and all knowing as we think we are.
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Mark Pilate
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Jan 31, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 25
Rob Fulton wrote:....It can be a humbling reminder that our friends, as well as our selves, might not be as cool and all knowing as we think we are. Reminds me of a song.... Stop! Hold on. Stay in control Girl, I want, you here with me But I'm really not as cool as I'd like to be 'Cause there's a red, under my bed And there's a little yellow man in my head And there's a true, blue, inside of me That keeps stoppin' me, touchin' ya, watchin' ya, belayin' ya
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KJ C
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Jan 31, 2020
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Boston
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 0
If they expect to fail, tell them to postpone their exam. No reason to go into the exam thinking they are going to fail. Better to take time to review the skills and practice them. Maybe they can find some SPIs or Rock guides and go out with them to work on things. Gaining experience and being comfortable with the skills are important. You also have to adapt to doing things the AMGA way. When they feel ready, they can sign up for an exam.
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