Softest grade given to a route?

the schmuck wrote:

Just a little poke at people who suggest entire crags/regions as an example of a candidate for the “softest rated route.”  So far the softest route anywhere is RRG, Maple, Shelf, Indian Creek, Ten Sleep, Rumney, EPC, Red Rock, and I’m sure I’ve missed a few. See how this is kind of silly? I do concede that a thread of this nature is silly in itself. 

I actually think this makes a lot more sense than calling out individual routes. On individual routes there is too much person-to-person variability. But the agreement on areas overall is pretty solid. 

Xi Yin wrote: Gunsmoke (V3) at J tree. Requires some endurance yes, but no moves harder than V1.

I came here to say this exact thing.  

the schmuck wrote:

Just a little poke at people who suggest entire crags/regions as an example of a candidate for the “softest rated route.”  So far the softest route anywhere is RRG, Maple, Shelf, Indian Creek, Ten Sleep, Rumney, EPC, Red Rock, and I’m sure I’ve missed a few. 

You missed the gunks

I believe the LRC guidebook gives Crack of Doom v4/5--it's really one or two 11- finger locks into a perfect hand jam. I could see V1 or V2 when considering other routes in the area. All one has to do is walk 20 feet across the corridor to try Ribcage (V3-) or Sternum (V5) to realize what an anomaly Crack of Doom is. Regardless, it's a really excellent line that should be done if visiting.

I'm not sure how the guidebook author managed to think tenuous laybacking was the optimal beta when there are numerous other appropriately graded cracks at Stone Fort. I can imagine it feels harder than Tristar if one tried exclusively to layback the problem without using any jams, but grossly incorrect beta shouldn't be the basis of the grade. Deception is probably v14 if you campus it. 

Greg Davis wrote:

I've been trying gunsmoke for almost 20 years. No moves harder than v1, but its harder than high plains drifter and seven spanish angels by a country mile.

Lol. You are doing something wrong

Gordy Schafer wrote: The Rostrum 11c fingers pitch

Big caveat. I followed and took about 6 falls, so I really don’t have a feel for the pitch yet. 

11cEnduro corner on Astro felt way harder. maybe this is a hand size thing? 11c fingers on Rostrum was steep, but didn’t feel impossible. Those finger jams felt bomber. The feet, not so much    So good. So so good.

Pinched rib at J Tree. It's rated 10a, but no move is harder than maybe 5.8. And it's only 40 feet long. Apparently it was originally given the grade 5.7 X, but then got two bolts put on it and was upgraded to 10a (???). Compared to other 10s in the park Pinched Rib doesn't hold a candle. I thought Leaping Leaner (5.7+) was harder. Am I missing something?

Tbf the downclimb is the crux of the route and may be harder than any move on the actual route...

Matt Miccioli wrote: I believe the LRC guidebook gives Crack of Doom v4/5--it's really one or two 11- finger locks into a perfect hand jam.

Totally agree. It's not even that much of a jamming-intensive route. There is nothing remotely resembling a 5.12a move on that route, which is what v4/5 should be.

Positively Fourth Street in Eldo was everyone's first "5.10" lead back in the day. You have to work hard to avoid using handholds that are within easy reach to make it 5.10. Below are Jim Erickson's thoughts on the pitch from the route page. I think 5.9 is about right for this route. 5.8-? That would be a definite sandbag!

"Although I always seem to get credit for leading the first ascent of this climb, it was actually my long-time climbing partner, Jim Walsh, who led an excellent, ground-up first ascent here, via the Direct Finish. I merely belayed him and followed the pitch. A very fun climb, which is way, way too short. I still have my original writeup of the route that I gave to Pat for High Over Boulder. In accordance with the standards of the day, we graded the route 5.8- if you went left at the top, or 5.9- if you did the direct finish!!!"

Jim Erickson Sep 20, 2005

Elliot Lukaitis wrote: Pinched rib at J Tree. It's rated 10a, but no move is harder than maybe 5.8. 

Good call on Pinched Rib. I do think it's harder than Cryptic, but one of the easiest 5.10s at JT. Very short crux and so well bolted its not commiting at all.

High Strung stood out to me as much easier than other JT 5.9s. After pulling onto the route (crux) the rest is kind of a cake walk.

Air ride equipped 11a Muir valley red river gorge.

every area is either soft as heck or sandbagged depending on how I am climbing at the time ;) 

Eli Buzzell wrote: Air ride equipped 11a Muir valley red river gorge.

So much this. That route is like 3 V0’s with lie down rests in between them. I would add Whip Stocking is kinda the same, but with no-hands knee bars instead of lie downs. It’s easier than fire and brimstone 10d and breakfast burrito 10c. 

Open Book felt super soft to me... Maybe 5.8 tbh

Buck Rio wrote:

hahahahaha….Tony B got me on this. It is the hardest 5.10+ I have ever done. Rated 5.9+++

Mostly easy till you try and leave the belay niche...then it gets real.

Just Trying to give this Larry day gem some love in a sea of sport routes ;)

Eli Buzzell wrote: Air ride equipped 11a Muir valley red river gorge.

Disagree, due to the moves right off the ground. That boulder problem at the beginning and the steepness (unique to most of those west of the Mississippi   ) warrant the grade in my opinion

the schmuck wrote:

Just a little poke at people who suggest entire crags/regions as an example of a candidate for the “softest rated route.”  So far the softest route anywhere is RRG, Maple, Shelf, Indian Creek, Ten Sleep, Rumney, EPC, Red Rock, and I’m sure I’ve missed a few. See how this is kind of silly? I do concede that a thread of this nature is silly in itself. 

You forgot Smith and Rifle....everyone knows they are the softest

Jon Hillis wrote: Open Book felt super soft to me... Maybe 5.8 tbh

Sacrilegious 

Cole D wrote:

Sacrilegious 

Dont take the bait 

I personally feel that the 5.12-13s specifically on the chuckawalla wall and turtle wall in Saint George are a little soft