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lynx crampons flexing

Original Post
Chris H · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 563

Hi Ice Forum.  I am having an issue with my lynx crampons flexing.  It doesn't seem to effect climbing, but it looks concerning to everybody, kinda worried they could break.  My crampons are as tight as I can make them - the fil flex bails are actually hard to get off the toe of the boot at the end of the day.  I would use the metal toe bail but they pop off the ends of my boots (they don't seem to have a compatible shape to fit the boot toe).  Any thoughts?

Thanks for your time.



Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Try a different band of toe bail - black diamond bails are cheap. A good shop might help you fit them.

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

Something looks really weird about that crampon fit/flex.  Check the centerbar--I seem to remember that Peztl centerbars can slot into two different positions on the front section of the crampon, one that keeps the centerbar stiff, and one that allows the centerbar to bend much as it is in your picture.  If you crampon is in the longer/more flexible position, try it in the shorter/more rigid position.  You will need to adjust the rear section as well.

Also, you should absolutely be able to use a metal rigid bail on that boot.  

Good luck.

Wayd Walker · · Three Forks · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

I have the same boots and crampons.   I have always used the metal toe bails and have never had one even move let alone pop off.  The gaps on the sides of the toe bails are not an issue as long as the crampon length is properly adjusted to fit the boot, then the rear bail placed in the proper hole to get them to clamp down tight.

Looks to me like that flex could be due to not using the metal toe bails.

Chris H · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 563

Thanks all

Lothian Buss: great advice thanks, will try this
Bruno Schull: agreed!  I'll check tonight on the center/link bar.
Wayd Walker: interesting data point! The shape of my stock front bails seem to have little coverage on the toe of this boot (they contact only at the side of the toe, I'll update with a picture when I get home).  I am thinking the rounded BD bail might be the solution.  The boots were bought used from another local ice climber - wonder if the toes are more worn down on mine or maybe we have different stock front bails (mine are circa fall 2018, I think the bail changed on these crampons at some point?)

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5
Bruno Schull wrote: Something looks really weird about that crampon fit/flex.  Check the centerbar--I seem to remember that Peztl centerbars can slot into two different positions on the front section of the crampon, one that keeps the centerbar stiff, and one that allows the centerbar to bend much as it is in your picture.  If you crampon is in the longer/more flexible position, try it in the shorter/more rigid position.  You will need to adjust the rear section as well.

Also, you should absolutely be able to use a metal rigid bail on that boot.  

This is my thought as well.  There are two places to seat the linking bar on the forefoot. The forward, more rigid position should be used for climbing ice.  You may have used the further back position to make the crampons big enough for your boots.  If that is the case, this crampon is likely not compatible with your boot size.  Out of curiosity, what size are you rocking?    

And 100% yes, the petzl toe bails fit on sportiva ice boots.

Chris H · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 563

shredward: I'll look into this and report back.  Thanks!

Kyle Goupil · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 907

Page 3 of the Lynx tech notice from Petzl has a lot of good tips on sizing your crampon to your boot

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Crampons/LYNX

Also just looking at the picture it looks like your linking bar might be in the wrong position as illustrated by the picture below.

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

You need a proper front bail... you're using strap-on crampons on vertical ice... not ideal.  See pic.

Chris H · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 563

KG: thanks, I'll see if I can dig up my copy of the manual or download it.  Will check the position this evening.
Eric and Lucie: thanks! I think I have to agree, I'll get on it.

Wayd Walker · · Three Forks · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Pictures of the fit of my toe bails.  Zero problems.



Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

Hey all, look at the OP's photo: he is not using the clip on bail, but the optional strap-on setup.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
I have very similar setup. From the picture I would say that you need to tighten the center bar a lot tighter.
Before I got new La Sportiva boots I had flexible hiking boots with Lynx and I don't think they flexed that much or in that direction. However It did suck to climb with them because the boots flexed so much. 
Also like others said the metal wire bail should work with those boots.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118257451/crampon-fitting
Wayd Walker · · Three Forks · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Eric and Lucie wrote: Hey all, look at the OP's photo: he is not using the clip on bail, but the optional strap-on setup.

Yes...and I'm sure that is a large part of his problem (adding flex to the system buy using flexible toe bail).

But....

He doesn't want to use the stock metal toe bails because....and I quote from his original post....

"I would use the metal toe bail but they pop off the ends of my boots (they don't seem to have a compatible shape to fit the boot toe)."   

Trying to assure him that the stock wire bails work fine regardless of the way they look.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Just asking... What do you guys think about this kind of solution?

Grant Kleeves · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 60

no issues with the Petzl toe bails on a G5, I use that setup all the time...to me it looks like your sizing is way off, I bet you could shorten up your link bar by a solid 1/2", maybe more? get your front set how you want it, for me that is the actual front of the crampon about flush with the front of the boot, or even a little forward, and then set the back so the nubs that stick up at the heel are tight to the sole of the boot, don't be afraid to move the bails back and forward as necessary to get a good flat fit...

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732
Heikki Pitkanen wrote: Just asking... What do you guys think about this kind of solution?

Bzzzt. The Cassin toe bail holes are significantly farther apart than Petzl, so that particular piece is going to be a poor fit/prone to coming out of the holes. And if you're thinking that silly "safety strap" is going to keep the bail on the toe, it won't. It will only ensure that the strap from the heel bail has such a large loop that if/when the crampon does pop off the boot, it will fall clean away to the deep snow at the base of the climb.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Okay that's what I thought. I admit that I did Google the Blade Runners but honestly I already got two perfectly fine pair of crampons and I really don't need another ones. :D

BTW. Black Diamond seems to be against with mixing bail wires and crampon rails.
https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_FI/qc-labthe-dangers-of-modifying-your-gear.html

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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