Whats the word on replacing bolts in idy?

Evening all,
I know there have been previous threads on this topic, but that was a few years ago and more and more people are climbing in the area. What are the ethics behind replacing bolts out at suicide or tahquitz? Who can do it? Why don’t the more classic routes get some shiny stainless on them? I know it’s a lot of labor, time and money but i’m sure the idy climbers can get together and get it done. Don’t get me wrong, I will readily clip those rusty spinning smc’s in a heartbeat but what happens when one of those blows and someone gets hurt? Its just a thought. Some routes that could use a looking at include: Blankety Blank, Hairlip, P1 belay on the Vampire, Several of the gluey smc’s on Valhalla, Field of dreams, and New Gens. If anyone else has anything to add please do so. Hope this doesn’t start too much chaos lol!
-Vertical Girth Unit

You are going about it the right way.  Get a consensus.  If you can, ask the people that did the first ascent.  Replacing aged bolts is common.  Just don't add any and know how to do it right.

This kinda falls under the "if you have to ask, don't do it" umbrella.

The leader must not fall.

John Penca wrote: This kinda falls under the "if you have to ask, don't do it" umbrella.

That's great and all, but who is going to replace all of these bolts then?

 Lots of people want to learn how to do it, but no avenue currently exists to "learn". This generation can't keep up with replacing all of the bolts on the old timers routes, what is going to happen in another 30 years with the thousands of newly bolted routes?

El Vertigirth wrote: Evening all,
I know there have been previous threads on this topic, but that was a few years ago and more and more people are climbing in the area. What are the ethics behind replacing bolts out at suicide or tahquitz? Who can do it? Why don’t the more classic routes get some shiny stainless on them? I know it’s a lot of labor, time and money but i’m sure the idy climbers can get together and get it done. Don’t get me wrong, I will readily clip those rusty spinning smc’s in a heartbeat but what happens when one of those blows and someone gets hurt? Its just a thought. Some routes that could use a looking at include: Blankety Blank, Hairlip, P1 belay on the Vampire, Several of the gluey smc’s on Valhalla, Field of dreams, and New Gens. If anyone else has anything to add please do so. Hope this doesn’t start too much chaos lol!
-Vertical Girth Unit

Bob Gaines has a list and is pretty much the only person I know of that is replacing bolts, there was one or two rogue bolters around but they moved away. 

Putting in bolts is easy, it's getting old ones out that sucks!

Maybe contact the ASCA

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3034594&msg=3034594#msg3034594

Lots of threads still on the taco that discuss bolt replacement in Yos.  Search it.

Here's one.  Roger Brown replaced a lot of bolts in yos.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1492905/bolt-replacement-ideas-for-2011

Paging Clint Cummins, please come the the front office!

El Vertigirth wrote: Evening all,
I know there have been previous threads on this topic, but that was a few years ago and more and more people are climbing in the area. What are the ethics behind replacing bolts out at suicide or tahquitz? Who can do it? Why don’t the more classic routes get some shiny stainless on them? I know it’s a lot of labor, time and money but i’m sure the idy climbers can get together and get it done. Don’t get me wrong, I will readily clip those rusty spinning smc’s in a heartbeat but what happens when one of those blows and someone gets hurt? Its just a thought. Some routes that could use a looking at include: Blankety Blank, Hairlip, P1 belay on the Vampire, Several of the gluey smc’s on Valhalla, Field of dreams, and New Gens. If anyone else has anything to add please do so. Hope this doesn’t start too much chaos lol!
-Vertical Girth Unit

Checkout: https://www.accessfund.org/meet-the-access-fund/our-network/local-climbing-organizations To find the local climbing community. 
https://www.accessfund.org/our-causes/replace-aging-bolts 
http://www.safeclimbing.org 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2862589/What-is-the-solution-to-replacing-bolts-in-the-future

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1306518/Success-3-8-wedge-bolt-removal

I think some people have the misconception that ASCA replaces bolts. They will provide the hardware, but some local climber will do the replacements (let me know if that is incorrect).

I don't think a "consensus" or designated/approved person is needed to replace existing bolts, just someone with the skill and experience to do it.

Just replace them. Permission or consensus is not needed for 1-to-1 replacement of old rusty spinners with a modern bolt. Adding bolts in new locations, or replacing fixed pins with a bolt, is a different situation and merits broader discussion. And should generally be avoided at museum-piece areas like Idyllwild. But for 1-to-1 replacement, by a experienced person, that should be considered "pre-approved" by the broader climbing community in most areas. Just make sure you do it well, and reuse the holes if at all possible. 

El Vertigirth wrote: Evening all,
I know there have been previous threads on this topic, but that was a few years ago and more and more people are climbing in the area. What are the ethics behind replacing bolts out at suicide or tahquitz? Who can do it? Why don’t the more classic routes get some shiny stainless on them? I know it’s a lot of labor, time and money but i’m sure the idy climbers can get together and get it done. Don’t get me wrong, I will readily clip those rusty spinning smc’s in a heartbeat but what happens when one of those blows and someone gets hurt? Its just a thought. Some routes that could use a looking at include: Blankety Blank, Hairlip, P1 belay on the Vampire, Several of the gluey smc’s on Valhalla, Field of dreams, and New Gens. If anyone else has anything to add please do so. Hope this doesn’t start too much chaos lol!
-Vertical Girth Unit

I know some good spots to add some bolts! PM me so the old men don't go berserk.

Tradiban wrote:

I know some good spots to add some bolts! PM me so the old men don't go berserk.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113940247/retro-development-in-idyllwild

If someone is just replacing old bolts with new ones, and they know how to do it, as mentioned above, I’d throw down into that bucket. I suspect the time and the “someone who knows how to do it properly” are the cruxes, not the funds that tahquitz climbers or asca would provide.

Rumor has it there will be a few bolts being replaced here shortly. You can ask Nomads for more information, or let them know if you want to help and might be able to put you in contact with the right peeps.

Tradiban wrote:I know some good spots to add some bolts! PM me so the old men don't go berserk.

Sounds like someone may want to have a private conversation with this guy.

There is a website in progress that will have how to videos for removing bolts. https://reboltingproject.com/. There is a list of routes that have been replaced in Joshua Tree https://reboltingproject.com/jt/replaced-routes/. 

johannsolo wrote: Sounds like someone may want to have a private conversation with this guy.

Ha! We all know you rap bolted in Idy. For shame!

Please don't add bolts to routes at Tahquitz.  It will be grid bolted if everyone does that.  If defective bolts really need replacement, that is different story.   But I have seen many older bolts out there that just don't need replacing yet.  

J-- Kaiser wrote: Please don't add bolts to routes at Tahquitz.  It will be grid bolted if everyone does that.  If defective bolts really need replacement, that is different story.   But I have seen many older bolts out there that just don't need replacing yet.  

+1 for grid bolting! OP HIT ME UP

From my point of view, adding bolts to routes on Tahquitz is almost sacrilegious. The place is like a national shrine. American climbing history was made here for many years. Shouldn't we collectively agree that those Tahquitz routes are part of US climbing history and except for replacing existing pro , we should leave them alone? Isn't there anything sacred enough in our activity anymore? I wasn't born in this country, but have climbed on Tahquitz for close to 50 years and have lived in Idyllwild for 23 years. The place is pure magic and climbers should do everything to keep it as pristine as possible. It's the least we can do. Please think about what adding bolts toTahquitz routes will mean for the future of this crag. The place might look quite different a few years from now...

Alois Smrz wrote: From my point of view... The place might look quite different a few years from now...

Seems like you didn’t read the OP, or just misunderstand.

The question is regarding bolt replacement, not retrobolting. The latter being unanimously out of the question for Tahq.
All hardware has a life span. It’s understood this stuff has to be replaced at some point, even by the FA team. There’s no “system” for this stuff, folks. People who know how to replace bolts do it when they are able and willing, and god bless them for it.