Goober takes massive lead fall

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNSq3bLuP5g&feature=youtu.be

Eric wrote: Why do you call him a goober?

Maybe this?

GoPro and selfie video... goober all the way.

He's climbing with half ropes.  At 0:21, you can see his blue rope crosses under his orange rope.  Is that ok?  Genuinely curious, as I'm starting to get into half technique.

Also, what is up with the two pre-placed black axes at the top?  Are these like the finish jugs in the gym?

Artem Vasilyev wrote:

I mean, if he keeps whipping on his ice proj with that attitude, maybe his perspective is bound to change preeetty soon. 

I'm sure as he wakes up in the future, he'll take a deep breath, smile, grab his cane and whisper 

"...worth it". 

to himself before he lifts his stiff body out of bed to hobble through errands around town. So freaking sick dude!

he'll continue his vlog from his hospital bed. hope you enjoy the age of the outdoorist prosumer. yay

Artem Vasilyev wrote:

Hilariously (and shockingly) enough - those are from his partner, who took a whipper from that same stance. If the POV of this guy is anything to go by, they are both certifiable gumbies. There is no reason they should be falling there - other than not having the requisite fitness and skill to be on the route in the first place. 

Oh jeez...

I try to choose ice climbing lines that have insitu axes at the top so I can get my four axe technique game on.

​Must have been mentored by this guy!​

Paging Will Gadd...

I agree with most of what's been said.  Obviously falling off on ice is a really bad idea.  I discovered his videos a couple weeks ago.  While I've been out with a leg injury (Not from ice whips!!)
I've generally enjoyed his content.  

Glad he wasn't hurt as this is the best case of what could happen in a lead fall ice climbing.  Place a screw and hang, clip into a tool if you must.  JUST DON'T FALL

I don't ice climb at all. Is it normal to not have some sort of leash for your tools? So after his fall, both sets of axes are now at the top of the climb. What the hell do they do now?

TaylorP wrote: I don't ice climb at all. Is it normal to not have some sort of leash for your tools? So after his fall, both sets of axes are now at the top of the climb. What the hell do they do now?

It's important to note that Rules 1 through 10 for ice climbing are all identical, and they state "Don't fall."

That said, there are a couple of things going on in the leash conversation. First, technically speaking, a "leash" is an old-style, load-bearing connector that fits directly on your wrist and used to be used to hang on your ice tools after every swing; this is distinct from a "tether," which is an elastic cord that is strictly used to stop your tools from hitting the ground if you drop them.

"Leashes" have fallen out of style in favor of "leashless" ice tools. This is only tangentially relevant to your question.

"Tethers," on the other hand, generally see use on multipitch climbs where dropping your tool would be an absolute nightmare. On single pitch ice climbs, tethers have a tendency to get slightly in the way and be a bit annoying, and often an ice climber will forgo a tether in favor of (1) being very careful not to drop her tool or fall and (2) rappelling in from top access in the event of a tool remaining in the ice after a fall.

There is not an abundance of evidence that the person in this video is at a level of technical expertise such that he was capable of making an informed decision regarding tethers.

I don't know a f-ing thing about ice climbing, but wouldn't the SMART thing to do before trying to manage 4-tooling over the top of those bushes and stuff be to either put in a screw or at least to clip to one or two of the four available tools? That long fall seemed totally unnecessary.

Señor Arroz wrote: I don't know a f-ing thing about ice climbing, but wouldn't the SMART thing to do before trying to manage 4-tooling over the top of those bushes and stuff be to either put in a screw or at least to clip to one or two of the four available tools? That long fall seemed totally unnecessary.

As a rule, yes, you should always protect the exit.

Didn't look like that was a "massive" fall.  Maybe 30'?  Just scaling from the part showing people at the base of the route and the shot downwards after the fall was arrested.

Classic example of "Mt Stupid" / the Dunning-Kruger effect.

John Penca wrote: Didn't look like that was a "massive" fall.  Maybe 30'?  Just scaling from the part showing people at the base of the route and the shot downwards after the fall was arrested.

lame spray. besides, just read a story of a 10ft fall on ice resulting in a floppy broken leg.

John Penca wrote: Didn't look like that was a "massive" fall.  Maybe 30'?  Just scaling from the part showing people at the base of the route and the shot downwards after the fall was arrested.

i'm not trying to take a 30 footer on an ice screw, I can tell you that.... that was a big fall, luckily it was a clean one.

Link: Will Gadd - Do not fall ice climbing​​​

“Unfounded optimism is for things like getting a date and a winning lottery ticket. If you want to survive then pessimism and accurate self-assessment are what matter. You’ll know when you’re good enough because you’ve got the background to be good enough.”
​

Chris Blatchley wrote:

lame spray. besides, just read a story of a 10ft fall on ice resulting in a floppy broken leg.

Or broken ankles on top rope from rope stretch.

A few comments:

1. Not sure why they were using a half rope technique, should have been using a twin rope technique and clipping both ropes.

2. His tool placement is not very good, no wrist swing.

3. He says he could not get a good rest so he committed. Yet he was just at a screw. Given his partner fell from the same bit, wisdom would have been to figure out a rest near the screw.

4. His footwork seemed marginal which probably contributed to being pumped.

5. Hopefully they could walk around to the top and get both sets of tools.