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Spring climbing in SLC?

Original Post
Kristin Maier · · Detroit, MI · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

So I just moved to SLC this past summer and LOVED all of the outdoor climbing options I had. I'm already getting the itch to go back out, but I know that's probably a ways away. In a "typical" year, when is climbing in the spring in BCC and LCC reasonable? Are there other areas within a 1-2 hour driving distance that melt out faster? If I want to take a nice drive to Zion or Moab area, when are these places typically comfortable for climbing again?

Any info is helpful. I'm just really excited and don't know anything about spring in Utah!!!

lethal weapon II · · Pangea · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 52

I climbed Castleton this past weekend. In my opinion the desert areas only are bad when it’s wet or too hot. Rareley too cold if you really want to get out. As for SLC area it really depends heavily on how much snow we get. Two years ago we were still climbing in December . Not so much last year. 

ADAM GRANT · · CHUBBUCK · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 422

North of you a couple hours there are a couple winter gems. The black Basalt rock creates micro climates of heat. You go down into the cliffs from the desert floor so most cliffs are blocked from the wind as well. If it is sunny and in the 30’s you can climb in a T shirt in the middle of winter. These areas are under the watchful eye of land managers so minding our P’s and Q’s is extremely important here. 

 The first -Massacre Rocks is on MP and will require a high clearance vehicle and most likely 4x4 to access in the winter. Massacre Rocks has sport climbing on the north side of the river and has a growing selection of boulder problems on the south side of the river. Check MP for further info. 

The second - Teddy Bear Cove was just published in the new Idaho Underground book. Teddy Bear Cove is accessible by car and a short walk or you can drive directly to the top of the cliff on the power line access road. “The Pit” wall will be the warmest for winter climbing and protection from wind. The local climbing shop (Idaho Adventure Sports) has the book in stock and probably on their website as well. They have been known to open up for people traveling through at odd times as well. 
I hope this helps.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822

Yearly rock climbing season usually starts in January and ends in December. 

Amanda Edwards · · Idaho Falls · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I would add Pointless crag to the list of warm basalt cliffs in Idaho. Super short approach makes it an easy winter spot, south facing keeps it warm. Not sure it would be worth a drive up though haha 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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