The forces on the loop or eye are the same. Each half of the loop or the eye receives half the load. There isn't a pulley type of action on the eye around the carabiner, because the bend radius is too small to allow for that. The bridge stitching might be shorter because when used as a bridge, the eyes share the load. The Connect lanyard loops receive the full load.
All these products are made by Petzl, have sewn circular connections, and are loaded similarly enough that I thought I would warn others of the possibility of failure. If the stitches start to slant, or you can move the two parts of the loop in opposite directions at the stitches, you might have a problem.
Micaiah . wrote: The Connect Adjust can also be tied with a Blake's Hitch, and used to ascend the rope in self rescue situations.
Yeah well ... I tried the single-strand blake's hitch quite extensively as a personal safety with adjustable length a few years back, on various hitch and rope strand diameters, but getting the hitch and rope diameters to be remotely friendly for further adjustment after full bodyweight loading turned out to be very problematic. Double the adjustment range vs a Purcell prussik for sure, but not very suitable for an adjustable hanging belay at all.
Yeah well ... I tried the single-strand blake's hitch quite extensively as a personal safety with adjustable length a few years back, on various hitch and rope strand diameters, but getting the hitch and rope diameters to be remotely friendly for further adjustment after full bodyweight loading turned out to be very problematic. Double the adjustment range vs a Purcell prussik for sure, but not very suitable for an adjustable hanging belay at all.
The Blake’s Hitch works best when the hitch and rope it is tied to are the same diameter. Most other hitches are better when the hitch cord is slightly smaller than the rope.
PaulMudd wrote: Looks like CAMP is jumping in on the game, I like the little tab on the device that allows a easier lower.
Looks like an ATC in guide mode, just as a single tube instead of the typical dual tube device for belaying/rappelling. Climber's side of the rope pinches the "brake" side and auto locks just like an ATC or Reverso in guide mode.
Brocky
·
Jul 1, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 0
There is also a small v groove that the brake section gets pushed into. It does release under load, even full, hanging body weight. Unlike the Petzl Adjust, this device can’t be clipped to the harness to use with a longer rope.
The Blake’s Hitch works best when the hitch and rope it is tied to are the same diameter. Most other hitches are better when the hitch cord is slightly smaller than the rope.
For my usage as a fully adjustable tether it was always tied to itself. 8.5mm dynamic locked up too tight, might have another go with a length of 9.8mm Sterling Evolution cutoff, more sheath, lower stretch.
Todd Kreider wrote: There's not much tech on Kong's website for the Slyde. Does anyone know what range of rope diameters it is designed for?
9-10mm dynamic single ropes. I use it with a 9.2mm moderately stiff Tendon rope. It can be difficult at times to adjust. Also tried the Slyde with an old Beal "Verdon" 9mm half-rope that isn't the slightest bit stiff. It adjusted much more easily. My conclusion is that the Slyde works best with non-stiff ropes.
Brocky
·
Jul 9, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 0
John Pitcairn wrote:
Yeah well ... I tried the single-strand blake's hitch quite extensively as a personal safety with adjustable length a few years back, on various hitch and rope strand diameters, but getting the hitch and rope diameters to be remotely friendly for further adjustment after full bodyweight loading turned out to be very problematic. Double the adjustment range vs a Purcell prussik for sure, but not very suitable for an adjustable hanging belay at all.
After rereading this post, it seems you’re using a fixed rope for the lanyard and using a separate cord for the hitch? If so, there are many two legged hitches that work better than the single Blake’s.
If you like the single leg hitch, here is one to try, it works easier than the Blake’s, and can tend slack by pulling up on the rope just below the hitch.
The stopper knot is needed. This hitch can be used as a two legged hitch by changing the stopper to an eye, it’s called the Enzyme with the double eyes.
Fritz Nuffer wrote: Great thread. MYOG much @OP? Five bucks and I'll build you a better mousetrap using a Kong Gigi that I bootied at the base of Midsummer Night's Sex Comedy, plus a choice cut of my 90m Beal Opera 8.5. Five bucks to ship, no charge for you to get something in the mail, review it, and then send it to the next taker.
#taggingisneither $incentivizationisboth ? who wants a piece of this ... see you on the old folks' thread.
$5 shipped for something that costs $10 plus dude cuts his own rope? Take'em up on the offer to get a gigi half off then use the rope for a dog leash after you find out that the MYOG contraption doesn't get you as close to your gear as the adjust and that the extending of the device isn't as easily done one-handed with a gigi. Lol
Brocky
·
Jul 9, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 0
You probably will get just as close if the Gigi is attached to the harness, instead of to the carabiner clipped to the anchor, this is how I use my Adjust.
stolo
·
Jul 9, 2019
·
Lake Norman, NC
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 214
Slots on the Gigi are much wider than that on the Slyde, I wouldn't use a tether w/ Gigi as your only point of attachment
After rereading this post, it seems you’re using a fixed rope for the lanyard and using a separate cord for the hitch? If so, there are many two legged hitches that work better than the single Blake’s.
If you like the single leg hitch, here is one to try, it works easier than the Blake’s, and can tend slack by pulling up on the rope just below the hitch.The stopper knot is needed. This hitch can be used as a two legged hitch by changing the stopper to an eye, it’s called the Element with the double eyes.
I was using a single strand, all the same diameter, with a figure 8 on a bight at midway (ish) girth-hitched to the harness tie-in, then the tail from that forming a blake's hitch back onto to the main strand. Main strand had the anchor biner on it attached via a strangle or similar suitable knot. The idea being similar to a purcell prussik but adjustable from full length to very short, instead of full length to half length (purcell).
I'll definitely experiment with this kind of setup again. The old one worked pretty well, but was not easily releasable after a full bodyweight hang on 8.5mm.
Fritz Nuffer wrote: Great thread. MYOG much @OP? Five bucks and I'll build you a better mousetrap using a Kong Gigi that I bootied at the base of Midsummer Night's Sex Comedy, plus a choice cut of my 90m Beal Opera 8.5. Five bucks to ship, no charge for you to get something in the mail, review it, and then send it to the next taker.
#taggingisneither $incentivizationisboth ? who wants a piece of this ... see you on the old folks' thread.
You're a few years too late. Look at the freakin' date on threads before you try to be smooth.
But I do respect anybody who'd rather DIY their own doohickey. That said, I've been using this thing for 3 years now and I still like it.
Brian L. wrote: What, exactly, is the need for all this adjust-ability when cleaning sport routes? All you need is something that puts you a comfortable distance from the anchor while cleaning. This really doesn't change. Aid climbing is another matter, but OP specifically mentioned sport.
I agree. I use a connect adjust for aid and when I am at a belay when free climbing I just clove hitch the rope to the anchor.
Yeah....I know... I'm a little late in the conversation... almost exactly 3 years late... but hey....I was looking at daisy chains and other PAS systems when I stumbled upon this thing. Have to say...it was a little pricey in my view, but found a flash sale and picked it up for $29.00. After reviewing various alternatives, this made the most sense for me. I wanted to be able to have the ability for an extended rappel set up and a quick and easy way to connect to an anchor while possibly having to do it with one hand. Sometimes in ice climbing there may not be the option to have both hands free to clip into the anchor as one hand may be holding onto the ice tool set into the ice....this thing just might do the trick...right now...I'm clipped into my basement ceiling, but in a few weeks it's going outside for a test drive....yeah...I know ...blurry photo...bad lighting and an empty wine rack...and a prusik used to pull the DMM pivot to demonstrate the extended rappel while clipped into the master point...yes...not ideal, but you get the point.