Cochise Winter Climbing?

Hi ya'll,

My partner and I are looking to potentially spend some time in Cochise (a week or more) starting in about a week.  Given the winter season and short days, I'm trying to deduce the best walls/formations to get sun exposure/low wind, minimize hiking times, and maximize climbing (I realize this is an "adventure" destination and I look forward to exploring further in longer-day/warmer-weather seasons, but given this is winter...)

However, I've had a hard time deducing from the guidebook and MP the aspect and logical details for the various options.

Here are my criteria:
- Reasonably close and legal van-camping to the parking area(s)
- Easy road access for a 2WD van
- 5.10-5.11 pitches with good protection

Reasonable to expect a week or more of options?  I'm seeing potentially Sheepshead, Out-of-Towners, Westworld, Whale Domes?  Hard to tell how much climbing one can get in given the hikes though, and what sort of temperatures are comfortable to climb in there.

Recommendations appreciated (or other Arizona options for winter, if Cochise is more hit-and-miss with day-to-day forecasts)!

Cheers,
-Jason

Jason. Have fun....  East side is has good camping/protection from wind...some climbing with good protection can be found at Zappa Dome! Not a long hike. 

West side generally has shorter approaches. It depends what you want to climb? Trad, sport, multi pitch? Most multi is trad here. East side has longer routes and generally longer approaches. West side shorter approaches and shorter routes. What are you looking for? Camping is easy and finding sun is usually easy

• Thanks Klef! Sorry I wasn't more specific - not preferential on single vs. Multi, but probably leaning toward trad unless any of the 'sport' is bolted in a modern way :) (I assume given the overall ethics that maybe the 'sport' routes here might be a little run out if they were put up decades ago)

Some of the routes are definitely run out but most are well bolted some ridiculously over bolted as well. But generally protection is good overall

Oh and bring lots of runners. Lots of routes have natural protection. Like horns and chicken heads

I understand that the raptor closures have been lifted, but may be reinstated if climbers disturb nesting raptors. Where are raptors currently or typically nesting in the Stronghold?

Raptor nesting is late spring to early fall. April through maybe August beginning of September. If you see raptors. Especially agitated ones. Move along

Thanks Keif, are the birds typically nesting in the Rockafellows or elsewhere?

I have never had problems there. But it’s mainly a matter of leave if you see them during season. Out of season. Don’t worry about it. You see them all the time

Bring lots of cold weather gear. It can get bitter cold at night. 2WD is fine.

End of the Road (Whale Dome) is not “easy to access” with car.  Ground clearance tends to be a bigger issue than traction.  Yes, the road traverses sand and gravel sections. But damage to the under carriage or getting a wheel caught in pit seem like more likely problems in bad years.  Maybe take a shovel.

The Forest Service regrades that road now and again.  TooFasttopos.com notes current conditions as difficult for a Subaru.   If the FS didn’t grade this years, it could be three years since the road was last repaired. 
Beware the humility and understatement of southwestern desert climbers.  

Kief Manning wrote: Raptor nesting is late spring to early fall. April through maybe August beginning of September. If you see raptors. Especially agitated ones. Move along

Bird closure starts March 1. Rockfella dome. They cancelled it last year. 

Winds can be quite rowdy. Currently the jet stream is dipping south with 2 reinforcing fronts behind it. Too soon to tell what it will be like in a week. Check the wind forecast and bring some high wind rap techniques. 

I thought the closures had been lifted and would remain so as long as climbers self-regulated. Are the closures back in place?  

Yeah, I’m familiar with those winds...

Jason, def recommend west side, camping at the sheepshead trail head is pleasant and is friendlier on the vehicle. Make sure you have a spare tire or flat repair kit, I’ve gotten two flats on middlemarch road. There’s an honest tire shop in Benson called Dels if I remember correctly, easy enough to drive out of the stronghold on a spare and make it to Dels. Be prepared for a border patrol stop on the west side. 

They did lift the bird closure last year. I don’t know if that was a permanent thing or not. 

Bob Harrington wrote: I thought the closures had been lifted and would remain so as long as climbers self-regulated. Are the closures back in place?  

Yeah, I’m familiar with those winds...

Yes this is true so it’s up to climbers not to f this up