Device reccomendation

I'm looking for a belay device that can double as a safety thing for my dad who sometimes uses a rope and harness when working up high as a carpenter. I would prefer something he can lock manually when he has taken out the slack that will also allow him to easily rappel back to the ground if he did fall, but I also want it to be a device he can use to belay as one of my usual climbing partners. Ideally it would be functional for 8-11 mm ropes, either static or dynamic. Ideas? 

Have you thought of a grigri? You can't "lock it", but if ever he falls it will catch the rope.  Or any similar device (Lifeguard, Birdie, Vergo).

There aren't really any devices that are normal belay devices that you can fully lock out. The closest would be a grigri and then a backup/stopper knot below it. If you're ok with something that's a bit bulky/awkward to use as a belay device, the rope access version of the grigri- the Petzl ID has the ability to fully lock out and is made for work at height. You can theoretically belay with it, but you'll for sure get some strange looks at the crag.

 I would not use a gri gri for that purpose. I have used it for the exact same reason but it does not work well. Yes it will catch an abrupt freefall probably 100% of the time. But it does not catch slow or sliding falls well. I slid several feet without the gri gri catching. Fortunately I had a second device on a second  rope that caught me. It was a microcender, which works great for that purpose but is not a belay device.

A click up might work well. I started using one for cragging. I haven’t tried it on a roof yet. 

The Petzl RIG is like a Gri-Gri that also has a locking cam.  It's used for commercial rope access work.

CAMP Giant or Petzl RIG would fit more or less OK.

An overkill setup is smthng like two lines with GriGri on the first and like CAMP Goblin or Petzl ASAP on the second.

Greg D wrote: 
A click up might work well. I started using one for cragging. I haven’t tried it on a roof yet. 

Based on my experience with it, I would say it totally meets the OP's requirements.  n.b. 8.6 mm to 10.5 mm range.

Camp goblin is marketed as a fall arrester. Look at rope diameter tho

You might look at the Edelrid Eddy.  It will lock and stay locked if that's what you want it to do.

Use a grigri with a backup knot.

The MadRock Safeguard pretty much the lifeguard without the spring might  fit your criteria

https://madrock.com/collections/belay-rappel/products/safeguard

Taz Lov 2 and Rescuescender

Does anyone know how to use a prusik anymore? Coupled with almost any belay device this is the cheapest, most effective solution I can think of. 

pph213 wrote: Use a grigri with a backup knot.

pph213 nailed it. The industrial rigs (except the Eddy) don't do a very good job of belaying. It's also worth looking at the Beal Birdie and the Trango Vergo. All offer a legit belay and the ability to lower yourself. Keep in mind that these devices are calibrated for UIAA/CE certified dynamic ropes. They are not designed or tested for industrial safety ropes, poly ropes or construction ropes. Use them only on dynamic climbing ropes.

Here's the info from Petzl:
Description

• Belay device with assisted braking, compatible with a broad range of single rope diameters, for both gym and crag:
  - feeding slack and catching falls are done using standard belay techniques; always keep a hand on the brake side of the rope
  - belaying convenience, thanks to assisted braking: when a climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens and the cam pinches and brakes the rope. Holding the brake side of the rope helps engage the cam; therefore, it is important to always hold the brake side of the rope
  - compatible with dynamic single ropes 8.5 to 11 mm, optimized for 8.9 to 10.5 mm
  - rope installation diagram engraved on both the interior and exterior of the device
• Exceptional convenience when lowering:
  - the ergonomic handle allows you to easily unblock the rope and lower someone
  - easily controlled, progressive rope feed provides a smooth and comfortable descent
• Intended for all users:
  - simple to use for belaying both lead or top-rope climbers
  - optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact and durable

Specifications

• Weight: 175 g
• Rope compatibility: 8.5 to 11 mm single rope
• Material(s): aluminum side plates, stainless steel cam and friction plate, reinforced nylon handle
• Certification(s): CE EN 15151-1, UIAA

References
ReferencesD014BA00D014BA01D014BA02Color(s)grayred/orangeblueGuarantee3 years3 years3 yearsPacking111Price$109.95$109.95$109.95

If you're ever hanging on the rope you should tie a backup knot a couple of feet below your rig.

Climb safe,
Mal

chris p wrote: I'm looking for a belay device that can double as a safety thing for my dad who sometimes uses a rope and harness when working up high as a carpenter. I would prefer something he can lock manually when he has taken out the slack that will also allow him to easily rappel back to the ground if he did fall, but I also want it to be a device he can use to belay as one of my usual climbing partners. Ideally it would be functional for 8-11 mm ropes, either static or dynamic. Ideas? 

You don't have a belay device now???

Your dad isn't employed by a company that has to play by OSHA rules???

My two cents? Don't try to do "one size fits all" when it's your life and your dad's life. If this is his day to day thing, buy him proper equipment. When the two of you climb, use the belay device that is best for your climbing partnership.

Best, Helen

Listen to Helen,
If this is for work for an employer they're going to be required to comply with OSHA standards. That means no Grigri or anything else that is not OSHA compliant. If your dad chooses to use a Grigri regardless and he's hurt, your employer will be sued, you'll lose your workman's comp and all kinds of other bad shit will happen.

On the other hand if he's just working around the house, it's AMFYOYO.

Be safe,
Mal

I'd say listen to Malcom (he knows what he's talking about), who tells you to listen to Helen.

Recreational climbing equipment usually is not appropriate for commercial use.  A painting company that wore out some Chournard carabineers lead to Chournard's bankruptcy in the late 80s.
Petzl may have a few items in both the commercial and recreational catalogs, but not many.  They are 2 catalogs, though.  

TAZ Lov2, Eddy, and GriGri+ (in TR mode it locks under body weight) would all work - I've used them all. I'm not sure re the Lov2 for normal belaying though as I use it for TR solo only. MadRock SafeGuard will lock with body weight but won't be able to belay because there's no spring. It'll lock as soon as you try to feed.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. A couple of responses to points people have brought up:

• my dad owns a small carpentry business and for most of the year he is the only employee and he only works high enough to need a safety system maybe once or twice a year which is why he probably isn't working with OSHA compliant systems. 
• As he is getting older, I don't expect him to be using this equipment for work safety for more than maybe 5 years or so, but he will likely use it for climbing much longer, especially if I can get him into multipitch trad climbing
• He is kinda new to climbing, which is why I was thinking something super easy to use would be good instead of an ascender or an atc and prussik combo 

I think at this point I'm going to get him a mad rock lifeguard and give him my camp lift and suggest he use both together to make a system that will be safe. Please let me know if that is a bad idea. 

Show him the systems for stuff, what the equipment does, and discuss what needs to be accomplished. He has more experience than you do, in general, and can certainly let you know what would (and wouldn't) work for his application and why. Then the two of you can work it out, each with his applied knowledge. Win, win.

Watching my son go up and down our ladder in crampons (to clear snowload off the roof) did make me smile. Warning labels on every square inch of the ladder, but they failed to mention that one! Gravity makes the rules, but climbers know how to cheat!

Best, Helen