Fatal climbing accident in Potrero Chico, Mexico - Brad Gobright

1. I agree..I’m having a bad day;(

Jonah Olson wrote:

Pitches 6 and 7 can be rapped together with two ropes as it’s 150’ total. They had an 80 which would have been just too short. My question is: how did Jacobson end up with the rope on the ledge if he is the one who rapped off the end?

If you look at the photo of that ledge, there is a steeply angled slab before it. Both Aidan and Brad hit this slab first and slid down it. At the end is a ledge only a few feet wide. Aidan was stopped by it, but Brad continued past it. It appears that Brad had the short end, so he went through the end of the rope.

Hi folks. New information and updates: https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/brad-gobright-dies-in-accident-in-el-potrero-chico-mexico/

We'll continue to do our best to stay on top of this story.

A sad, sad day for the climbing community. We are heartbroken.

RIP. It sounds like he was a great person.

Thanks for the updates, R&I. It's painful to look at that cover shot. What horrible irony.

This video gives a good perspective of the route: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwnQh9WHk6k

At ~2:00 you can see the ledge at the top of the 5th pitch.

What a shame

Can’t believe it, dude.
Hearing the news got me thinking about the times when we joked about piss bottles in our vans, and to laughing at you flailing on a highline on a sunny day at the Rostrum.
Glad to have had a chance to know ya, and sending love to your friends and family. RIP
PSA: not here to tell anyone that simul-rapping is bad or to tie knots in every situation, but to please only simul-rap with people you trust and can communicate clearly with and to tie knots. Be safe, y’all.

My favorite Brad film (after Safety Third, which is classic) is the Dreefee flick with Ben Hanna: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrLIPfiBuKk

Ziggy Chalkdust wrote: What a huge and frustrating loss of an amiable, humble and legendary human. I'm relieved that the accident didnt cost both climbers their lives. But also... FFS ROCK & ICE! If you don't know what happened don't publish it. R&I also had basic details about both climbers bios muddled initially. YOU CAN AND SHOULD DO BETTER ROCK AND ICE EDITORS -a subscribed reader.

(pic: Cheyne Lempe).

What about their bios did they muddle? Also they published what they were told by the authorities and then promptly changed the story once they had Jacobson's side. If anything, they've been the only reliable and constantly updating source of information throughout today and yesterday.

So sad to have to post this. I miss you Brad; let’s all remember your lessons.

RIP Brad

Malcolm,

thanks for the link.  The critical information provided here is that the anchor location the two climbers were heading for on rappel was occupied by other climbers so they decided to try and make it to the next anchor below. Unfortunately, they didn't make it.

Andrew Bisharat spoke with Jacobson and posted some more details regarding the accident.

https://www.outsideonline.com/2406215/brad-gobright-climber-dies

I had watched a few of Brad's videos on youtube a few days ago. He seemed like a great person and I am sad even though I have never met him. He was gone too soon.

Pam, if you're reading these I hope you will take some small bit of comfort in reading the many examples of Brad's life impacting those around him. My own heartbreak is very painful with this new reality. Brad has been a good friend and confidant through the years and his insight was something I always looked forward to hearing whether it was beta on a valley route or telling me what it was he liked about the evolv generals or agreeing to help other friends get from point A to point B when they arrived in Vegas. Brad will continue to inspire the climbing world for years to come. His many accomplishments coupled with his passion for the sport will live on it our hearts and lives. 
Aidan, if you're reading this: I can't imagine what you're feeling having been present for this tragedy. If you need to talk call anytime.607-282-0417

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: thanks for the link.  The critical information provided here is that the anchor location the two climbers were heading for on rappel was occupied by other climbers so they decided to try and make it to the next anchor below. Unfortunately, they didn't make it.

That's not what I read, it sounds more like they were trying to skip a short rap to reach a ledge.  

One detail not discussed yet is that a GriGri does not offer the smoothness nor precise control over a single rope rap that an ATC does, as his partner was using. 

It was all a surprise according to the partner.  I'm sure a guy like Brad knew well the situation with the possibly short rope, the bush and no knot - I think a guy like Brad gets that - he may even have been planning to down-solo the pitch once his partner was safe on the ledge where his end was visible - but with ~40 meters of stretch built up in the rope (twice the stretch of a normal rap) and near zero mass left on the brake side, I believe it was highly likely the rope could have snapped through that GriGri faster than he was able to control it.  

[EDIT: either clearer reading on my part or an update to the story indicates they were doing a ~50' rap from the 6th pitch anchor to the 5th pitch ledge.  My comments still apply even though the distances are smaller.]

Bill Schick wrote:

One detail not discussed yet is that a GriGri does not offer the smoothness nor precise control over a single rope rap that an ATC does, as his partner was using. 

I don't doubt this is true, but as details have emerged I kind of start to wonder the opposite. If the partner was moving more slowly, or his prussic created drag, or he grabbed the rope a little more tightly the opposite side of the rope would be moving up at the same time the climber on that side is going down. 

This is not to place any sort of blame. As stated, it's obvious that the level of experience was there to know all possible outcomes.  
I do think there is something to be said for being firm when you feel uncomfortable in a situation.  

Paul L makes a good point. What's to keep the rope from going thru the anchor in favor of the person with more friction (ATC together with prusik than a GriGri).  One person is effectively lowering the other as well  shortening the amount of rope they thought they had.

kjh wrote: Paul L makes a good point. What's to keep the rope from going thru the anchor in favor of the person with more friction (ATC together with prusik than a GriGri).  One person is effectively lowering the other as well  shortening the amount of rope they thought they had.

I don't know what the rap anchors were here, but a rope generally won't slide easily with all that weight on it, unless there is a HUGE weight difference.  Think about belaying someone on TR who's much heavier or lighter than you are.  How often have you seen a climber lowered all the way to the ground because of a weight difference?  It happens only with very significant differences.

I've simul-rapped a bunch and can't recall the rope moving ever.

John RB wrote: I've simul-rapped a bunch and can't recall the rope moving ever.

I agree, but I do think it could have moved a bit in this case - but frankly it's irrelevant and I don't know why anyone who read the Outside article would make anything of it.  Even if it was moving, they had already done numerous raps and were used to it.

Both were aware and talked about the fact that the rope was not at its middle mark, that the partner's side was longer and touching the ledge and that Brad's side was stuck in a bush. 

I don't think it's a huge assumption to say Brad was planning to "take one for the team" by noting his partner would make the ledge and Brad would assume the increased risk of dealing with the bush and the possible downclimbing given he knew his side was shorter and could see it was not touching the ledge and that it may not reach.  Whatever went wrong happened very fast according to the partner.  I'm sitting with my theory as the highest probability given what's known.  If you've ever rapped a long dynamic line with a GriGri, you know clearly what I am talking about - it's very challenging to control the rope as you near the end - 10's of feet of rope can snap through the device in a few milliseconds.

He was a good, modest dude who never sprayed and helped everyone.