How to tell if the sandstone is dry

Want some clarification so I don't ruin any lovely rock. I spent some time today driving around the moab area looking for routes that were free of snow (on the face and up top) and found one or two prospects.

If it was in the sun all day today these routes should be okay to climb tomorrow after a few hours of sun right? I have heard the saying about if the dirt is wet don't climb, but with all the snow melting it seems like the dirt will be wet longer than the rock.

This train of thought makes sense to me, but I haven't found much online about climbing after snowfall, just after rain.

Chances are very high that it won’t be dry. 

Any way to tell besides the dirt? 

If you're serious about wanting to do the right thing, I'd go into pagan mountaineering in the morning, tell them your plan, and be willing to bail if they say it's not a good idea. Getting the opinion of locals who know the conditions and recent weather history makes more sense than asking randos from the internet.

Will do thanks

Climb it. If it crumbles apart it was to wet. For real tho if you gotta ask it's best to error on cautious side and just hit a gym.  

Stick your dick in it.  If you meet resistance and “ouch that hurts!” It’s dry!!

Charlie Martz wrote: Want some clarification so I don't ruin any lovely rock. I spent some time today driving around the moab area looking for routes that were free of snow (on the face and up top) and found one or two prospects.

If it was in the sun all day today these routes should be okay to climb tomorrow after a few hours of sun right? I have heard the saying about if the dirt is wet don't climb, but with all the snow melting it seems like the dirt will be wet longer than the rock.

This train of thought makes sense to me, but I haven't found much online about climbing after snowfall, just after rain.

If you have to ask...

...the locals will lynch you.

If you can climb the pitch with ice tools it's too wet.

If you pee on the rock at the base, if it's absorbed, it's dry. If it bounces off and soaks your shoes, it's too wet.

Is that real advice, lol?  Sometimes I feel like the wet rock tests boil down to that.  Just spent last weekend not climbing in Moab so I feel the pain...but also agree that in the long run, it’s better to err on the side of caution.

kick the dirt (find dry dirt), needs to fly 10 feet. Like Kip said, prob not dry

Charlie...wet is wet. Not a difficult concept. If the soil/dirt at the base of the climb is wet, then the rock on the route is likely too damp to climb. 

Ted Pinson wrote: Is that real advice, lol?

You youngsters have little concept of parody and satire.

Charlie, go back to CO ya gumby

TaylorP wrote: Charlie, go back to CO ya gumby

Roasted

Marc801 C wrote: If you pee on the rock at the base, if it's absorbed, it's dry. If it bounces off and soaks your shoes, it's too wet.

I wish that people asking about climbing after rain in Red Rock would use this method. 

"f you pee on the rock at the base, if it's absorbed, it's dry. If it bounces off and soaks your shoes, it's too wet."

cassondra l wrote:

I wish that people asking about climbing after rain in Red Rock would use this method. 

Already smells enough like urine there. I'm hesitant to encourage this.

Josh C wrote: Look at what happened to Jah Man. Word on the street is someone from Denver came to Moab and climbed it when they thought it was dry, but still wet.

What happened to Jah Man? I haven't climbed it/been up to date with any events.

Charlie Martz wrote:

What happened to Jah Man? I haven't climbed it/been up to date with any events.

The first pitch flake which formed the chimney fell off. There's a thread here about it: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118245304/rock-fall-jah-man-sister-superior