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abandon moderation · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 50

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Jeb McHardman · · Taos · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 115

Full Tilt at Black Wall isn't a horizontal roof but is incredibly steep and frustratingly wide.

Brad Young · · Twain Harte, CA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 631

Congratulations. You're a candidate to do the first free ascent of a very, very deep, completely horizontal roof crack located on Sonora Pass Highway (it's about 20 feet deep and only 40 feet off the ground).

It's located off Highway 108 (Sonora Pass Highway), at a feature called Water Echo Roof near the Donnell Reservoir forebay. The route's named Hell or High Water and is currently rated 5.9 A1 (the 5.9 is getting up 40 feet to the start of the roof crack, and the crack is the A1). It's in the 2013 Climber's Guide to Sonora Pass Highway (page 230).

And, bonus, after being closed for three years due to washouts, the road to the reservoir is open again. With this weather it should be open for another few weeks.

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Two north-facing roofs in the Valley come to mind, the obvious one: the Alien finish to the Rostrum (or the Excellent Adventure if you're up for it); the less obvious one is the p2 roof on Windchill, which is sandbagged at .11-

Brad Young · · Twain Harte, CA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 631

Now that is a good sales pitch, I'll be damned if I didn't just order another guidebook.

No doubt I'll be aiding my way through but I'm looking forward to going to see what it's all about before the snow rolls in, it sounds pretty epic! Got any pictures?!


It's a good guidebook and a helluva roof. And no, I have no photos that I know of, although that's where your timing could have been better - I was just there on Saturday (walked right under it).

Fair warning though - even when I was regularly leading 5.11a and b, I could not imagine it going free. And I frequently nag the one very-strongest regular Sonora Pass climber to give it a go free, and even though he leads into the low 5.13s, he's seen it but never tried it. Is that because of lack of interest, or because he doesn't think it will go free? You'd have to ask him (I think he posts here as "team whipper").

The two belay bolts at the start of the roof (40 feet up) are probably in good shape (they're 3/8 inch, but of carbon steel). It'll need new slings, or permanent chains on those bolts. Also, you'll want various size brushes (including a soft-bristle brush) since it will need cleaning. My perception is that the crack is mostly 1 1/4 to two inches (but I'm looking up from 40 feet below). Maybe a recon is in order?

Finally, on the one known ascent, the climber did not place an anchor at the end of the crack, but left a fixed stopper or two. The crack continues vertical after finishing the roof and really could use a two-bolt anchor at its top. If you're serious about giving it a go, let me know and I'll contact the first ascentionist and make sure he's OK with an anchor added to that point.

I sincerely hope that you do check it out and that you get it clean. I would love to see that kind of success. Either way, please keep us posted here if you try.

Brad Young · · Twain Harte, CA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 631

^^^

Oh, and seriously, don't forget sandals with which to wade across the river. It's just slightly too big to rock-hop, and although the walk from the car is short, you have to cross the river.

Nick C · · NH · Joined May 2017 · Points: 1,446

It’s a boulder, but Ghetto Snake in tuolumne. 45 minute- 1 hour hike but you don’t need pads. Fists to hands

MIchael Plapp · · Madras OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 5

Not in the Tahoe area but closer than the Valley.

Gong Show, Rock Creek.
Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Haystack at Lovers leap...  but its really short and may not be what youre looking for

Nick C · · NH · Joined May 2017 · Points: 1,446

Ghetto snake gps coordinates are 37.8633, -119.3967, from the guidebook. When you hike to cathedral, you usually take a left off the main cathedral lakes trail; for ghetto snake, you keep going straight and when cathedral is on your left, you cut off the trail into the talus below. The climb is hidden in the trees below the talus, sort of close to the trail (I think). It was kind of a bitch to find. I think the coordinates got me closer but not exact.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Gumby King wrote: Haystack at Lovers leap...  but its really short and may not be what youre looking for

0/10

William Leventhal · · Calabasas · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 477

Perhaps the most amazing roof crack in Yosemite is Jaws, under Elephant rock.  Hands to OW to chimney on a massive overhanging boulder about 50' tall. (5.12 burlfest)

Another good,  junior sized roof crack is Overdrive, near Discovery View Tunnel. (5.11a)

William Leventhal · · Calabasas · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 477

Abandon Moderation - No, that is definitely NOT Jaws.  It really looks like the gaping mouth of a big shark or fish and is near horizontal for a long ways.  I have no photos of it to share.  I may have one somewhere on a memory card but the likelihood that I can find it is slim.

Perhaps someone out there has a photo.  Jaws is directly under the Worst Error on a huge frickin' boulder.   See the Don Reid Yosemite free climbs for a map of it's location.

Randy Sandoval · · Elk Grove · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

God of thunder, dear John butress. the Leap. Classic Yaniro route.

William Leventhal · · Calabasas · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 477

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1416154/JAWS-the-offwidth-yosemite

Brian Prince · · reno · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 2,914


i'm willing to push the definition of "nearby" for some self promotion. although i think justified, for sure one of the neatest roof cracks i've done! though maybe it's not pruely straight in so doesn't fit the bill

tokopah reality

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