Rack for The Prow - Linville Gorge

Doubles of cams?  Double in small ones and singles in larger ones?  Small nuts?
Thanks

set of nuts, small tricams, and single set of cams and some slings is plenty.

rap down open book gets you to tree line/base of prow fasterer than the gully.  you will need a tag line though

We will actually have two 60s because we will be two groups of two. Do you rap off a tree or bolts?  When looking down the gully, just down the cliff line to the right?

Agree with Jim.  Nuts up to 9, tricams up to 1.  You won't place more than 4-6 pieces per pitch, maybe less.  Definitely skip on the cam doubles, maybe except 0.3 and 0.4.  Anything larger than .75 C4 felt like dead weight to me (used a #2 for bomber anchor at the top of P2 but there are tons of options on that mega ledge).  All anchors actually take passive gear very well - strongly recommend it for P1 anchor which was pretty suspect rock.

p.s. Work out your non-verbal communication for P3... you won't hear shit.  Have fun!

jsanders wrote: We will actually have two 60s because we will be two groups of two. Do you rap off a tree or bolts?  When looking down the gully, just down the cliff line to the right?

No bolts in the amphitheater.  Personally, I'd recommend the access gully if it's your 1st go there.  Doubt you'll save any time by rapping with that party, even assuming you find the rap right away (and know that you did).. IMO.  

Should go without saying, but Amphitheater is much more committing than other LG areas.  Once you start the best way out is up.  Know what the weather is going to be for the day and that your whole party is mentally (more so than physically) up for the task.  It can get really windy and even a little rain makes for a shitty time on the easy slab.

Be safe and have fun out there!

There are bolts on the inside of the narrow gully feature on the mummy side of amp. On the prow side you'll need to use the tree tat on open book.

When I used the bolts there was a suspect rope set up on them. Only one had a quick link and the other was just the bolt. If you plan on using that you should bring another link.

Then there's the gully in the crease of the amp that you can maneuver without rope. The ease of this will change with weather. Wet will be messy

Rap anchor for open book is at the end of the point behind us low and to the right.  Doubles will definitely get you down quicker than the gully..... screw that gully.... lol

Did the Prow yesterday 11/6.  All the above beta is spot on.  Took cams .2-3 as well as yellow and red C3s, doubles of .5 and .75.  Might be a tad much for some, but I think I used everything at least once.  Tricams are super useful, better than nuts I think.  Checked out the rap station but ended up going down the gully - it's really not that bad.  
If anyone is in there anytime soon, there is a yellow jackets nest in the grassy clump about 1/3 of the way up pitch 1.  I found it the hard way.

jsanders wrote: Did the Prow yesterday 11/6.  All the above beta is spot on.  Took cams .2-3 as well as yellow and red C3s, doubles of .5 and .75.  Might be a tad much for some, but I think I used everything at least once.  Tricams are super useful, better than nuts I think.  Checked out the rap station but ended up going down the gully - it's really not that bad.  
If anyone is in there anytime soon, there is a yellow jackets nest in the grassy clump about 1/3 of the way up pitch 1.  I found it the hard way.

awesome!  can't count how many times either my son or I yelled "pink or black Tricam for the win" in the amp 

Now you can start contemplating the Linville Triple.  but wait until longer daylight hours cause it's long day

Calling for over an inch of rain Saturday but Sunday looks sunny--does the Prow dry out quickly? Trying to take my mom up something long while I'm down south.

I climbed the North Ridge shortly after an ice storm last November and it was a little wet but totally doable, though it isn't as slabby as I understand the Prow to be.

I got rained on my first attempt of the prow in the middle of the slab pitch.  Bailed when the lightning started.  My son still talks about that...

the gully will be a mess.... table rock - peek a boo?

Walter Edly wrote: I got rained on my first attempt of the prow in the middle of the slab pitch.  Bailed when the lightning started.  My son still talks about that...

ok that would suck cause you bail and then what have to climb out via the gully????  probably could have waited it out at the top of slab under cover

Was my 1st trad lead, son below me.  Never on the route before.  The gully did suck.  Still sucks, but we wander off OP's topic...

I'm more concerned about how quickly the route dries as I was planning on the double rope rap off of Open Book rather than the gully descent.

Jim - thanks for the suggestion on Peek a Boo as a backup

Derek Ehrnschwender wrote: I'm more concerned about how quickly the route dries as I was planning on the double rope rap off of Open Book rather than the gully descent.

Jim - thanks for the suggestion on Peek a Boo as a backup

having wasted way to much time and effort in the gully, rapping down open book is the only way to go IMHO

Got on the route yesterday and had a perfect day. Agreed that the rap down open book was simple, especially with my mom in her 60's I wasn't psyched on the gully. The tree and tat left a little to be desired but after inspection/bounce testing I didn't back anything up. My 60 got us to the ground with a tag line. Thanks for the info everyone!