First time out west (mostly JT) – ideas/recommendations?

Hey all,

My wife and I are heading west to rent a car and camp/bomb around for a couple of weeks and an early stop is Joshua Tree so she can run the traverse. We've been to JT before and know the deal around camping/expected crowds, but this will be the first time climbing outside our stomping grounds (New York/Adirondacks).

We're both new-ish to trad and I've spent the second half of our short summer leading. Generally comfortable at 5.7 placing gear. A lot of people will say Adirondack routes are pretty sandbagged, but then again it seems like everyone says that, so I have no idea. My hodgepodge rack I've been using when not borrowing gear has doubles in stoppers 1-13, C3s 00 and 0, C4s .5, 1, 2, 3, and 4 (2x), plus the 5 tricams and 3 hexes that came with the lot. Oh and a dozen quickdraws for the sport climbing I never do, since there's hardly any around here.

Any favorite campgrounds or must-climbs? No objections to pushing my grade, or just tooling around on fun, easier climbs. We'll just be happy to be there.

Thanks!

Get the Miramontes or Vogel guidebook. The star quality ratings will provide good climbs. You can purchase the guidebook at the local climbing store, Nomad Ventures, in the town of Joshua Tree.

"run the traverse" as in running the CA Riding & Hiking Trail from Black Rock CG across the park to 29 Palms Entrance? if you're running as well, you could both lighten the load by stashing fluid and food about halfway at the south end of Ryan CG (or get a campsite there) or along the short connector trail to the CARHT.  if you're driving around to support her, the CARHT crosses the paved Keys View Rd, and later beyond Ryan, crosses Geo Tour Rd (dirt road that's sedan accessible nowadays), and the paved Pinto Basin Rd just south of Belle CG

Sean wrote: "run the traverse" as in running the CA Riding & Hiking Trail from Black Rock CG across the park to 29 Palms Entrance? if you're running as well, you could both lighten the load by stashing fluid and food about halfway at the south end of Ryan CG (or get a campsite there) or along the short connector trail to the CARHT.  if you're driving around to support her, the CARHT crosses the paved Keys View Rd, and later beyond Ryan, crosses Geo Tour Rd (dirt road that's sedan accessible nowadays), and the paved Pinto Basin Rd just south of Belle CG

Thanks Sean! That's the one. She's friends with the unsupported FKT holder and just got her first here in the east, so she wants to see how her time compares toward the end of the trip. Well beyond my range though, so I'll definitely make use of what you said for the days I might be doing the support thing.

Camp in the BLM lakebed outside of the park.

Headstone is fun, easy, and a sport route, making it a great sunset climb. Could be crowded, although every easy and popular route is crowded. Right On is another fun climb and one of the taller formations. There are so many easier trad routes, don't get too hung up on climbing a "classic" when it is crowded, just walk a little farther and there is tons. Have fun!

Other Other wrote: Stop by climbing store nomad ventures. They have every climbing book from the last 50 years. Also you can chat up the staff. Please buy something !

Will do, I'm all for supporting local shops.