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Nat Shultz
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Oct 27, 2019
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Cottonwood Heights
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 355
Seems like time to stir the pot again. I haven't seen any good comparison reviews in the past couple seasons and now that the Laser Speeds have been out for a few years some long-term, real world feedback would be appreciated.
- Which offering places better? - Which is more durable? I've read about issues with Petzl's Laser Speeds metal becoming discolored, corroding, flaking, etc? -Which teeth / threads hold up better long-term?
Appreciate any real world feedback!
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Marc-Olivier Chabot
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Oct 27, 2019
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Gatineau, QC
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 440
Kailas Swift ice screw is the best. Lighter than the petzl, shorter hanger made the ideal choice for screw in between icicle and doesn't need to clean the ice as much as other screws. Hanger is an I-beam shape allow you to sling a webbing directly to them, make them the lighter option so far. But the best so far is the screw doesn't stick on wet ice. This aluminum screw goes as well as steel screw.
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Nat Shultz
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Oct 27, 2019
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Cottonwood Heights
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 355
Appreciate the feedback Marc. I'm specifically looking for user feedback on the Express vs Laser Speeds. Thx!
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greggrylls
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Oct 27, 2019
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 276
Laser speeds. No contest.
Bite way easier and zip right in. Both work but try both and the winner is clear.
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erik wellborn
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Oct 27, 2019
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manitou springs
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 355
I used both extensively leading WI4/5 ice last season. Couldn't tell any difference. Both went in super quick on cold dry ice and both tended to bind on wet sticky ice. I'd go for whichever are on sale and have a few chrome/steel screws for the wet stuff.
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Connor Dobson
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Oct 30, 2019
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Louisville, CO
· Joined Dec 2017
· Points: 269
I own both and don't like the crank on the petzls
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Grant Kleeves
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Oct 30, 2019
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Ridgway, CO
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 60
I have quite a few of both, and I'm slowly changing over to Petzl for everything...Petzl's are way, way, easier to start, and arguably a better crank, I don't love the single big hanger as much as the two-tiered hangers on the BD 's for arranging anchors but it's a small gripe, durability has been about the same across brands, maybe leaning toward favoring to the Petzls being easier to touch up with the Petzl sharpening gadget when you do run one into a rock... I will second the recommendation to carry at least a couple steel screws anywhere but the alpine, I've had a tough time with both brands of aluminum screws if you get the right combo of cold/wet...
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Gunkiemike
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Oct 30, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,737
Y'all saw in OP's title where he's asking about the ALUMINUM screws from BD? and Petzl, right?
Spoiler - he didn't. He's asking about the companies' top-of-the-line STEEL screws. (The aluminums are BD Ultralight and Petzl Laser Speed Light)
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Jack C
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Oct 30, 2019
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Tennessee
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 325
Petzl's beat out BD's in terms of # of placements (smaller head circumference which makes a difference when placing) and durability because of their rounded threads. The BD's, like Grivel and OP, knock against each other and their edged threads get pretty beat up.
Racking Petzl's is better too: if you alternate which direction you have the hanger pointing they nest. The BD's do no such thing.
Not a big difference in teeth durability imo.
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Doug Hutchinson
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Oct 31, 2019
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Seattle/Eastrevy
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 346
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Luc-514
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Oct 31, 2019
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 12,535
I use both, you can crank harder with the BD because it's a single piece hanger but you can place the Petzl in tighter spots/less cleaning because the handle folds out of the way. It's easier to manipulate two carabiners in the BD because it's seperate holes instead of the large hole on the petzl
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Nick Sweeney
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Oct 31, 2019
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 1,019
The difference is minimal, but I prefer Petzl.
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aclayden
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Oct 31, 2019
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Glenwood Springs, CO
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 90
I think the difference is pronounced and petzl screws start much quicker and easier due to superior tooth design.
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Luc-514
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Oct 31, 2019
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 12,535
aclayden wrote: I think the difference is pronounced and petzl screws start much quicker and easier due to superior tooth design. Tooth design keeps changing every year from all manufacturer. Now they're pushing to have a more aggressive and fragile teeth versus durability. Sharpen them by hand and you'll never get the same efficient profile, you need to have them professionally done for that. But Starting any aluminium screw is faster than a ChroMo one, at the price of sharpennability, price and moist ice seizures.
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