Best climbing-oriented approach shoe?
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I hate the new tennies. I thought the previous versions were very good, despite some longevity problems. I cant find a good replacement |
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I like the Scarpa Crux for 5.easy scrambling. I have wide feet and they fit great. |
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I have all three TX series, and I usually wear the TX2. It is the most comfortable and I can climb up to easy 5.7 in them. |
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No one has mentioned Salewa Wildfire Edge. Perhaps because no one here has tried them? I have not been able to yet either. However they sound like they would be a good one that doesn't sacrifice hiking comfort... Though they don't look anything like climbing shoes. |
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Darren Gemoets wrote: Looking for an approach shoe that would be good for climbing 5.easy pitches. That is, a shoe that is maybe not the most comfortable for hiking or solid for standing in aiders, but a shoe that fits/performs more like a climbing shoe. Based on my experience I'd avoid the Evolv Cruzer Psyche, at least in your normal street shoe size. There is no cupping shape to the heel, so your heel pops out if you try to stand on your toes or edge. To clarify, I don't think the problem is the lack of a *plastic heel cup*, which is a feature, allowing them to collapse down flat for packing. I think the problem is that they aren't shaped well in the heel and don't wrap around your heel and keep your foot inside the shoe. |
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For what it’s worth, I’ve heard rumors from creditable sources that La Sportiva is working on a replacement for the Ganda that was discontinued a number of years ago. The Ganda was an amazing approach for climbing; precise, stable, and a favorite among guides. |
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Matthew Koenig wrote: For what it’s worth, I’ve heard rumors from creditable sources that La Sportiva is working on a replacement for the Ganda that was discontinued a number of years ago. The Ganda was an amazing approach for climbing; precise, stable, and a favorite among guides. The Ganda was simply the best climbing approach shoe I have ever owned. Easily do most 5.7 in them. Seen people climb 5.10 face climbs with them. |
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La Sportiva TX3 |
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I haven't seen anyone mention them yet, but I really like the Butora Wing. I've had a pair for about 5-6 months now and they're great for smearing and they edge rather well too. |
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I wouldn't be so quick to toss out running shoes, especially since you live in the East. Check out Sportiva Akyras. True they don't edge, but they smear low 5th with ease and they RULE steep wet leaf approaches, something the TX series does not do. |
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I'm a prior owner of the Scarpa Crux and current owner of TX3's. I've liked both, but the Scarpas definitely seemed stickier to me and felt more secure while climbing and scrambling, especially when the climbing was mainly smearing and friction. |
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Shane Rosanbalm wrote: I'm a 10a sport climber and 5.8 trad leader in climbing shoes. I can second 5.5 and top rope 5.6 in Merrell Gloves. The gloves also fit nicely in a bullet pack if you plan to walk off a multi-pitch. Holy crap, I just wore mine out last week for the very first time and I was impressed. BUT, they totally suck for boulder hopping on sharp rocks. We did lap up a classic and down an established trail and then wandered to another out of the way area that ended with a hike across some freshly cleaved basalt blocks. I hadn't gone far when part of my sole didn't land on the rock but the side did. I thought that there would be blood. Excruciating, shockingly, I didn't have a hole in the shoe. I'd hauled my Five Tennies out but as the Merrells had don't so good on the trail I chose them instead. The Merrell's are not for backcountry sharp rock. They trade longevity and strenght for light weight- that's what they excel at. I'd give them a 1 out of 10 in that regard (0 would be barefoot). Man, they sure are light though, and they grip well (it was dry at the time). |
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The Evolv Cruzer Classics might be what you're looking for. They're lightweight, cheap-ish, snug fitting, and perform like a soft soled climbing shoe. If you get them in women's sizes (narrower) they climb even better. |





