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Mordor Wall fixed bashies?

Original Post
Jason Arrow · · NH · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 10

Wondering how the fixed gear on the second pitch is faring?

Hans Lacasse · · Canaan, NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Not sure I think some were replaced A couple years ago because A friend of mine took A nice fall up there and zippered some out ha! Always bring some with you cause you never know what's up there.

chris b · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 11

i climbed this two or three weeks ago. every bashie held me, though i skipped maybe 2 i could reach past (i'm 5'11). i did use a #1 tomahawk that was necessary and maybe #2.

Stein Pull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

It's been a number of years since I climbed it so I can't comment on the current conditions. However, Chris is spot on with the tomahawks. Definitely bring a few of those. I was able to place them on the deadheads.

Kellen Busby · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 60

Check out Ben Maxfield's Instagram account. He did some cleaning up of the Mordor Wall a few months ago: instagram.com/p/B0mKr89DuZ7… and instagram.com/p/B0jyvHYDV4I…

I was asking him plenty of questions about it so I'm sure he'd be happy to give you the run down.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Kellen Busby wrote: Check out Ben Maxfield's Instagram account. He did some cleaning up of the Mordor Wall a few months ago: instagram.com/p/B0mKr89DuZ7…;

"Sorry, this page isn't available."

and https://www.instagram.com/p/B0jyvHYDV4IgLVxP_BCHaId5c_skFehiJmidyo0/

"This Account is Private"

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,535

A friend climbed it last week if you want beta.

Kellen Busby · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 60
Marc801 C wrote: "Sorry, this page isn't available."

"This Account is Private"

Ah sorry man, didn't realize his account was private. 

stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 72

In case anyone is interested, on the 1st ascent, that seam after the hook traverse was all rurps until finally reaching a bomber 3/4 inch angle crack at the lip, which I was relieved to find. Also I didn't place a bolt on the traverse until reaching the vertical seam. I realized that it would be prudent to place that bolt before heading up that seam on rurps. I ground down a Chouinard hook to fit in those shallow holes, as there were no other types of hooks available back then. About 20 years ago I repeated the route with my son, and was surprised how much that seam had changed.

Jason Arrow · · NH · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 10

Thanks for all the info! I was able to get up the first pitch rope soloing and looking over at the second pitch, that looked like quite the fun times in its original form! Thanks for commenting Steve. I’m looking forward to finishing it up next year. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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