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Must climb boulders at Moore’s Wall

Original Post
Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I’m a fairly new climber. I’ve only climbed outdoors once before (the boulder field at Rumbling Bald) and loved it. Got my second outing planned for next Sunday at Moore’s and I’ll be joined by several climbers who have never climbed outside before. I would be grateful for any recommendations from those of you on the site who have been to Moore’s many times and can point me in the direction of the best boulders for beginners as well as a few that V4-V5 level gym rats could take a shot at with the realistic expectation of likely not getting the send, but having fun trying.  Mainly looking for boulders with good rock quality, a few easy (V0, V1, V2) problems and a fairly safe landing area.  Recommendations for higher grade “must do” problems are certainly welcome, but we will most likely spend a large part of the day taking turns climbing and spotting one another on fairly easy climbs. Any other input that a noob to the area might not know about or even know to ask is also welcome. Thanks in advance for your input. 

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20

2 mile boulders is awesome 

dave Hause · · carrboro, nc · Joined May 2013 · Points: 330

I recommend that y'all carpool.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 437

There's a really, really, big boulder -- It kind of rises high above the forest, you can't miss it.  It has like 100 problems. That's the one I recommend.

Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

2 mile looks like it has some really nice options Carolina. Thanks

Yup, trying to get everyone in one vehicle.

I am definitely eager to get into trad, but I lack the gear and my level of knowledge on the subject is not to a point where I would feel comfortable taking a shot at it without an experienced climber leading the way. I have no problem with learning by doing, with a reasonable amount of research and study beforehand,  and may, in the future, make an attempt at it with a partner (even one as inexperienced as I), but not something I would ever consider tackling with a whole group of first timers.  So we’ll be sticking with crash pads as our only pro for this trip and nothing more serious than maybe a low V highball. 

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Two mile would be good, the warm up boulders on the way into the valley meet your list, other good problem scattered around the main area, but there really aren’t large concentrations of easy problems in any one spot. Take more than one pad, some of the landings can be rocky. If you don’t have the guidebook, you should pick one up, it will definitely get you where you want to go. 

Sean Barb · · Moores Wall, North Carolina. · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 435

The main boulderfield is a good target for your first visit.  It's a big, complex, jumble of house-sized blocks of bomber quartzite.  As a general rule, the landings kinda suck, so be vigilant in spotting your crew and pad up the landing zone before you leave the ground.  Some good problems with flat landings can be found in the Zschiesche Corridor, but they're tall and heady!  The uphill side of the V3P0 boulder has good technical face problems above a good landing zone.  The far left of the downhill side of the Titan Boulder has a good traverse and variations above a flat landing.  The main boulderfield is a fun place to wander around and explore, the bouldering is seemingly endless.   A 10 minute hike from the main boulderfield is The Valley.  The Warmup Boulder in The Valley also has a concentration of problems above good landings, the XXX Boulder has great problems with good landings as well.

If you visit on a weekend with good weather, you will definitely see other folks and you can ask around for the locations and beta.  The Loomis guidebook has detailed maps and very useful info.

Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I truly appreciate all the input. The Warmup boulder looks like a good place to start so everyone can get an idea of how outdoor bouldering will differ from indoor.  
 I do have the guide book for Moore’s, it is a font of information.  So much information in fact that it was difficult to parse through it and settle on a game plan. For that reason, I am grateful to you all for your suggestions.
And yes, we will have at least 3 decent sized crash pads. I’d love it if my only concern was trying to make it easy for everyone to have fun, but an unexpected injury definitely puts a damper on the good times.  So safety is my primary objective.  The fun will just come naturally, I’m sure, since we’ll all be doing something we have a passion for. 

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 437

You'll be fine, no one is going to get hurt.  Main issue will be keeping everyone engaged, as bouldering tends to be humbling (even humiliating) , especially to newcomers.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

If the parking lot is full, you can drop the other climbers and the gear and then drive back down Hooker Farm Rd and park at the Tory’s Den lot and walk back up. It’s not that far and without a large chunk of foam on your back it goes quick. 

Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.
It rained pretty much the whole time so, luckily, parking wasn’t an issue. We hit the warmup boulder for a couple of hours and moved down the trail a bit through a few of the valley boulders. By the end, we were all soaking wet, cold and exhausted, but I was with a great group of people and, despite the inclement weather, we had a blast. Definitely looking forward to going back and, hopefully, having better conditions. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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