What happened to the new Five Ten shoes?

Josh Schwartz wrote: So, I saw that one pair of the new Grandstones in my size (42) listed on the Adidas website, and they were on sale for 30% off during the Labor Day sale, so I figured I'd place an order and see what happened. I fully expected to get an email saying that the page wasn't supposed to be up and my order was refunded, but a few days later I got a shipping notification and today the shoes arrived! Very early impressions, having only worn them in my apartment:
1) The toe box is much less boxy than it looked in the initial photos I saw online. Still not quite as low-profile as my TC Pros, but fairly flat.
2) The fit is fairly similar to Quantums (which fit me great). I wear a 41 in TC Pros and these are as small or smaller.
3) The build quality at least feels pretty solid. There's more rubber over the toes than TCs and it _feels_ like they'll be less likely to delaminate than every pair of TC Pros I've ever had, but of course time will tell.
4) My initial impression is that they're a little bit less stiff out of the box than TC Pros and much less stiff than Blancos, but they're still pretty stiff. Very curious if they lose their rigidity like Quantums or stay together.

I'll be trying them out in the Gunks on Sunday and can update once I've actually taken them up a few pitches.

hey, you gotta be the first to have them on the forum! Guinea Pig!

I'm considering a pair too..
I have a couple of questions:

I recently bought a pair of anasazi VCS and been having problems with how narrow the shoes are and they are a bit too symmetric for me meaning that my toe is forced to go too much towards the center of the foot..
Did you get the Gransdstones in the same size as the Quantums?
How is the width of the sole on the Grandstones?
How is their point shape? Symmertical or asymmetrical? From the pictures it looks more comfortable than the Anasazi VCS but I'd like your opinion. Thanks!

Svvenson wrote:

Seconding this. I've blown through 4 pairs of Quantums in the past year and a half... I haven't complained too much since a new pair has been almost as cheap as a resole ($60-$70), but the exploding toes (one pair started delaminating after only 3 gym sessions) combined with how quickly they lose their stiffness is really disappointing. I did get a pair warrantied, but I had to ship the shoes back and it was a pain. 

I keep buying them because they fit my feet so well, but they are nowhere near the quality of any of my 'old' Five Ten shoes. The retail price seems particularly absurd when compared to the quality of any Sportiva shoes I've owned.

Sorry dude just using your post to reiterate my previous point, yet it seems necessary. People if you like old  five ten shoes, stop buying trash and start using Unparallel. It’s all your/our favs with the same awesome fucking rubber! Without all the BS quality control issues. Adidas is just throwing money and tech at shit they really don’t know much about, and it’s starting to show. Kinda like when Burger King tries to sell me a taco.

Drtysmellyhippy wrote:

Sorry dude just using your post to reiterate my previous point, yet it seems necessary. People if you like old  five ten shoes, stop buying trash and start using Uparallel. It’s all your/our favs with the same awesome fucking rubber! Without all the BS quality control issues. Adidas is just throwing money and tech at shit they really don’t know much about, and it’s starting to show. Kinda like when Burger King tries to sell me a taco.

Whats the UP Grandstone and Blanco equivalent?  I don't know what quality control issues you are referring to but i am sure there are plenty but I have never had any issues with 5.10.   Does UP have a Guide Tennie?  When UP increases their lineup I might take a look.

:wq! 

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Whats the UP Grandstone and Blanco equivalent?  I don't know what quality control issues you are referring to but i am sure there are plenty but I have never had any issues with 5.10.   Does UP have a Guide Tennie?  When UP increases their lineup I might take a look.

The UP lace. Is stiffer than pinks, darn close to blanco, but not exact. However my new pair of Vims are the OG V10 reincarnated TRUTH! As for guide tennie nothing yet as far as I’ve seen or heard, which is why I am gonna buy what I can in my size before all gone forever, and as far as grandstones well I don’t know. I guess my advice is patience. The QC issues stems from coprate takeover. Moving facilities + new business model+ inexperienced workforce = unfamiliar/inferior products. 

Niccolo Gallio wrote:

hey, you gotta be the first to have them on the forum! Guinea Pig!

I'm considering a pair too..
I have a couple of questions:

I recently bought a pair of anasazi VCS and been having problems with how narrow the shoes are and they are a bit too symmetric for me meaning that my toe is forced to go too much towards the center of the foot..
Did you get the Gransdstones in the same size as the Quantums?
How is the width of the sole on the Grandstones?
How is their point shape? Symmertical or asymmetrical? From the pictures it looks more comfortable than the Anasazi VCS but I'd like your opinion. Thanks!

I got them like....two point five months ago. See page 5 of the thread. Few months later. They are still stiffer than quantums post break in. Not as stiff as tc pros and/but not as versatile as TC Pros. If I had to choose forever: TC’s

Car Lo wrote:

I got them like....two point five months ago. See page 5 of the thread. Few months later. They are still stiffer than quantums post break in. Not as stiff as tc pros and/but not as versatile as TC Pros. If I had to choose forever: TC’s

Oh ok, I guess I didn't pay attention.. 

I saw that you got them your street size.. How is the width? Could you compare their width to another 5.10 model? As a reference I have a new pair of Anasazi VCS and they are too narrow..
Thanks!

Greg Opland wrote: Had some Verdon VCS shoes that I use in the gym. They're a little over a year old. They developed a 3/4" wide cut in the toe through the rand, so they're on borrowed time.

Basically no climbing shops around here other then REI, who I don't believe carry even one pair of Five Tens, so no way to try them on.

Based on the Verdon, I, stupidly assumed the Gambit VCS would fit about the same, so ordered a pair of those (they didn't have the Verdon in my size). Bear in mind these were a FULL SIZE above my street shoe size. I couldn't even get them on. Not just difficult or painful mind you... fully UNABLE to even get my foot in there they were so narrow.

So I tried again with the Hiangles as I saw someone here say they fit great for someone with a high volume forefoot. Again, full size over my street shoe. These I could get on, but no way a shoe works for climbing if you can only keep it on for all of 3.5 seconds before you start screaming and rip it from your foot. I wear a size 10 street shoe and I'd have had to order like a 12.5 in that shoe for it to fit relatively comfortably.

So after 30 years of wearing Five Ten, I guess I'm no longer a Five Ten guy. I used to be able to order shoes sight unseen in my street shoe size and they fit like a glove.

Ya got strange feet, hiangles and guides in street size fit perfect, pinks half down are great for me. Size 10 as well 

Why wouldn't you try less aggressive ones similar to verdons?

Niccolo Gallio wrote:

Oh ok, I guess I didn't pay attention.. 

I saw that you got them your street size.. How is the width? Could you compare their width to another 5.10 model? As a reference I have a new pair of Anasazi VCS and they are too narrow..
Thanks!

I’d say the width, for me at least, is a ‘tweener between tans/pinks and quantums...a smidge wider than the tans/pinks but not as wide as quantums. Honestly now that I think on it, this is compared to the shoes of 5.10 Redland days. I don’t know if 5.10/Adidas manufacturing ways have changed the fit in any way. 

Still no sign of the new Grandstones on the Adidas website. Mountain Tools website has them listed for $180.

Customer service said 10/1.  Some people on MP already have some pairs. I'd love some more thorough reviews of how they perform vs TC Pros.

KyleMFSpurgeon wrote:

UP Approach shoes are very much on the way. Keep an eye out anytime now. 

As stated here, the UP Lace is a good replacement for the Blanco, though not quite as stiff.

A hightop version of the UP Lace (read grandstone competitor) is also in the works, per Instagram. Takes time to make a shoe.  

No need to sell me bro. But thanks for the beta I’ll keep my eyes peeled. They have a customer for life! 

I'm a half size down in Hiangles from street.

Given how bad the Aleon and new Dragons are for me, I will be stocking up on Hiangles as well. The UP equivalent has a heel that has lots of deadspace on me.

Ziggy Chalkdust wrote: So, how long til Adidas cans this shitshow? Predictions? I predict 18 months.

Maybe sooner, they have no retail presence anymore, they firesale and discontinue models after a year. They ran a good company into the ground.

Doug Chism wrote:

Maybe sooner, they have no retail presence anymore, they firesale and discontinue models after a year. They ran a good company into the ground.

That's usually the outcome of such a merger. What does a behemoth company like Adidas need with 5.10? I guess I'm asking, as it's not the brand they want, it perhaps was the employees of the company, but I hear there's a big requirement to relocate, which is a hard pill to swallow for some. It's not the shoe designs, as we've seen most of those be blatantly copied. Perhaps it's the climbing  talent - you can be sponsored by Adidas + a shoe company but now, maybe that's not a kosher thing, since Adidas IS a climbing shoe company (rather than just apparel). Lots of big pros have dropped their shoe sponsor to go w/5.10-Adidas.

Rennie Putnam wrote: I've been eagerly awaiting the release of the new version of the Grandstone shoe from Five Ten. It's been delayed for a while, but a recent email I got from Adidas said they would be available the beginning of September. 

Anyone want to start a betting pool on when in the 2030s these will actually see full production release?

KyleMFSpurgeon wrote:

UP Approach shoes are very much on the way. Keep an eye out anytime now. 

As stated here, the UP Lace is a good replacement for the Blanco, though not quite as stiff.

A hightop version of the UP Lace (read grandstone competitor) is also in the works, per Instagram. Takes time to make a shoe.  

Jw where you saw this info?  I checked UP instagram and didnt see anything.  

I have the upmoccs and they seem solid (other than that i sized them too small)

Long Ranger wrote:

That's usually the outcome of such a merger. What does a behemoth company like Adidas need with 5.10? I guess I'm asking, as it's not the brand they want, it perhaps was the employees of the company, but I hear there's a big requirement to relocate, which is a hard pill to swallow for some. It's not the shoe designs, as we've seen most of those be blatantly copied. Perhaps it's the climbing  talent - you can be sponsored by Adidas + a shoe company but now, maybe that's not a kosher thing, since Adidas IS a climbing shoe company (rather than just apparel). Lots of big pros have dropped their shoe sponsor to go w/5.10-Adidas.

When I heard adidas bought 5.10, I assumed that they would incorporate the 'stealth rubber' marketing into the Adidas shoe offerings and kill off the rest of the company. (in other words, rather than wanting to move into the climbing business, they hoped that sticky rubber could help adidas differentiate their normal shoe products from nike/puma/etc...). 

John Clark wrote:

Anyone want to start a betting pool on when in the 2030s these will actually see full production release?

I’d rather put my money on how disappointed you guys will be when you actually get to climb in them...

I haven't worn my Hiangles since buying the Quantums on Super Sale. I'm forced to buy more at this point. Too bad they don't discontinue a shoe AFTER the replacement option is out, so at least you'd know if you can move on or have to stock up.