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hauling on trad gear?

Original Post
Maxime Castilloux · · Newport · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 305

Can I haul a fix line and a haulbag on a 3-4 points trad anchor? Every informations I found is about fix anchors, but it's probably ok, exemple for first ascent backcountry big wall?
Thank you for your answers!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Maxime Castilloux wrote: Can I haul a fix line and a haulbag on a 3-4 points trad anchor? Every informations I found is about fix anchors, but it's probably ok, exemple for first ascent backcountry big wall?
Thank you for your answers!

Why would you think it’s not OK? 

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

Your standard multipitch trad anchor should be able to withstand a climber taking a factor 2 fall onto it.  Unless you're hauling a super monster load, the forces involved will be significantly less than that.

If you're not comfortable hauling on your anchor, it's not a safe anchor to climb on!

Maxime Castilloux · · Newport · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 305

I've never climb big wall and every information I could find show fix anchors.
I really trust my trad anchors but maybe there is something that it's not correct and people who make first ascent bolt a fix anchors with manual drill and hammer...

Finally I know that is possible and safe thank you for your answers.
I'm just curious to know everything :)

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 263

Yeah, it is fine to haul off gear anchors when they are good. I would say a lot of party’s bolt the anchor for a few different reasons.

1. If you can’t get a bomber gear anchor. Let’s say between two A4 pitches.
2. It you are going to rap the route anyways. Bolts are cheaper then leaving gear. So might was well use the bolts on the way up and down.
3. Just pure convenience, but this often times done by repeating parties, not the FA. Like many routes on El Cap. But, there are still many route on El Cap that require building your own natural anchors.

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15
Sam Skovgaard wrote: Unless you're hauling a super monster load, the forces involved will be significantly less....

If you're not comfortable hauling on your anchor, it's not a safe anchor to climb on!

You would never get a load that heavy off the ground.  You would never get that much up to the base even.

How many haulbags are 1000 lbs?

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Maxime Castilloux wrote: Can I haul a fix line and a haulbag on a 3-4 points trad anchor? Every informations I found is about fix anchors, but it's probably ok, exemple for first ascent backcountry big wall?
Thank you for your answers!

Sure. Basically this is the only option on many routes.

Belay anchors are not intended to fail.

Christian George · · Home-yes, Town- no · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

I’ve hauled off of two equalized hooks.
There are no rules. 

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Climb Club rules.

  1. There are no rules.
  2. There are no rules.
  3. Someone yells "Take!", grabs a draw, slip off, the climb is over.
  4. Only one climber to a climb.
Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25
Christian George wrote: I’ve hauled off of two equalized hooks.
There are no rules. 

What was the rest of your anchor (if any). Static haul rope? Terrifying.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Christian George wrote: I’ve hauled off of two equalized hooks.
There are no rules. 

Lol, I've done the same thing 

Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
K Weber wrote:

You would never get a load that heavy off the ground.  You would never get that much up to the base even.

How many haulbags are 1000 lbs?


You’ve obviously never heard of Pass the Pitons Pete Zabrok.


Or never seen the gear list for the first ascent of Wings of Steel.  Much heavier than 1,000lbs
Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
K Weber wrote: How many haulbags are 1000 lbs?

PS.  Depends what you have in them.  I recall one I was hauling that weighed 170lbs so that would be 1,000 / 170 = 5.88 so 6 haulbags.  

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
rockklimber wrote:

PS.  Depends what you have in them.  I recall one I was hauling that weighed 170lbs so that would be 1,000 / 170 = 5.88 so 6 haulbags.  

I've hauled two bags and a single ledge where one of the bags was 12 gallons of water and the other bags were 12 days of food and other personal gear along with more of the rack not needed on the first few pitches. The water alone was 100lbs. But I didn't haul that off two equalized hooks unfortunately

Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
kevin deweese wrote:

I've hauled two bags and a single ledge where one of the bags was 12 gallons of water and the other bags were 12 days of food and other personal gear along with more of the rack not needed on the first few pitches. The water alone was 100lbs. But I didn't haul that off two equalized hooks unfortunately


We had two 170lb pigs full of 20 gallons of water, food and camera gear.  There were 4 of us, 2 per bag hauling up gear to some climbers working a route on WOEML.  


12days huh?  I’m guessing you were soloing something?  Or doing something up the middle of the East side?  T Trip?
Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
rockklimber wrote:

We had two 170lb pigs full of 20 gallons of water, food and camera gear.  There were 4 of us, 2 per bag hauling up gear to some climbers working a route on WOEML.  


12days huh?  I’m guessing you were soloing something?  Or doing something up the middle of the East side?  T Trip?

Tribal Rite via New Dawn Solo 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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