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Use Rubber Bands as Screamer?

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Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

Lol JK

Really I'm wondering if anybody has done this as an extendable draw on a hard redpoint. It would carry on the harness very neatly and is easy to clip. Once it's clipped, you can just pull the bottom biner down to extend it without much effort with just one hand. (Much less time hanging on one arm than an alpine draw)


Obviously the shortcoming is that if you fall on it when it's not extended, it'll extend and you'll fall farther, but this is a pretty special use case, and would be a beta specific tool for a specific route.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Isn't this what alpine draws are for?

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120
FrankPS wrote: Isn't this what alpine draws are for?

Yes, but this takes much less time and energy to extend when you're pumped. I probably wouldn't use it very often at all, but it's an interesting thought 

Nathan.H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

It's a great idea. Probably a little slow to re-rack the Alpine draws that way.  Definitely a fast deploy!

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120
Dave K wrote: Although this is not exactly what you are describing, do not use rubber bands or keepers on OPEN slings or quickdraws.

LINK TO VIDEO

This is not a hypothetical danger. It has been the cause of multiple fatal accidents, including a climber that believed she was redundantly tethered, using two slings. Unfortunately both had twisted into this dangerous and easy to miss configuration.

Good to know. You could easily just replace it with the petzl string. The idea with the rubber band holder remains the same

Mike Kaserman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

Google what a screamer is.  This is in no way akin to a screamer.

Parachute Adams · · At the end of the line · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0
Mike Kaserman wrote: Google what a screamer is.  This is in no way akin to a screamer.

This is exactly what I was just thinking. 

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

I’m really glad you gave us a frame-by-frame analysis of how it deploys.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292
The Raven wrote:

This is exactly what I was just thinking. 

Did you guys read? He explained that he was kidding, and that it only resembles a screamer. 


To the real reason- Why couldn’t you just have it extended already, with biner clipped to biner on your harness? Atleast thats what i’ve seen people do in Gunks videos. 
Mike G · · Pennsyltucky · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Mike Kaserman wrote: Google what a screamer is.  This is in no way akin to a screamer.

Read the rest of his post, clearly states he doesn’t intend for it to be used as a screamer. That was a title joke. 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Caleb Schwarz wrote:

Lol JK

Really I'm wondering if anybody has done this as an extendable draw on a hard redpoint. It would carry on the harness very neatly and is easy to clip. Once it's clipped, you can just pull the bottom biner down to extend it without much effort with just one hand. (Much less time hanging on one arm than an alpine draw)

Obviously the shortcoming is that if you fall on it when it's not extended, it'll extend and you'll fall farther, but this is a pretty special use case, and would be a beta specific tool for a specific route.

That's aid.

Climberdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Won’t the hippies get mad when the rubber bands fall off on to the ground and create litter?

Mickey Guziak · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 630
Climberdude wrote: Won’t the hippies get mad when the rubber bands fall off on to the ground and create litter?

Not if it's cruelty free rubber.

Duncan Domingue · · Nederland, CO (from Louisiana) · Joined May 2015 · Points: 80
Climberdude wrote: Won’t the hippies get mad when the rubber bands fall off on to the ground and create litter?

Good thought. I wonder if you could have the rubber band captured by one of the carabiners but still around the excess sling. Once deployed, the rubber band just hangs out on one if the carabiners. I'm too lazy to try for myself, so I'm just thinking out loud.

Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 96

Interesting, obviously for limited function.   For me I use metolius bravo long draws to avoid having to extend alpines (just clip the bottom carabiner to the top).  Also rabbit runners clipped in a loop to avoid even that, just pull off the shoulder and clip the loop to the racking biner and then the runner's biner to the rope.

Tianyu 1 · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 10

I think u might be looking for Chris tan death products

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908
Max Rausch wrote:

Did you guys read? He explained that he was kidding, and that it only resembles a screamer. 


To the real reason- Why couldn’t you just have it extended already, with biner clipped to biner on your harness? Atleast thats what i’ve seen people do in Gunks videos. 

Would you enjoy climbing with your balls dangling down around you knees?  Yeah. Same goes for slings Einstein. 

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120
Climberdude wrote: Won’t the hippies get mad when the rubber bands fall off on to the ground and create litter?

The rubber band is actually around the sling. It doesn't fall off. Look in the photos. It's hard to see but it's the little yellow thing at the top.

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Mickey Guziak wrote:

Not if it's cruelty free  rubber

Sounds kinky...
Rock Monkey · · Bonita · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 15
Caleb Schwarz wrote:

The rubber band is actually around the sling. It doesn't fall off. Look in the photos. It's hard to see but it's the little yellow thing at the top.

Well it's a good thing rubber bands never break. LNT Duey!  

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