Sport Climbing in Tahquitz

I just moved down to San Diego from NorCal and I keep hearing about Tahquitz and am looking to get out there soon! Does anyone know if there are any well-protected bolted routes ? Or very easy trad routes that they recommend. It’s been a while since I’ve done trad climbing. I used to follow up to 11b but my head game has been pretty bad and I’ve only led up to 5.8 myself. 

Tahquitz is about as opposite a sport climbing area as you are going to find- bolted routes at lower grades tend to be pretty traditionally bolted, many of which were bolted on lead. For the typical sport climber, this means pretty runout, spicy stuff.

There's plenty of gear placements to be had, if you are good at placing it, have good routefinding skills, and can stay on route. In general, I'd say it's not the best place to get your head game back in order, unless you prefer to do so by jumping in deep.

Hello!

There aren't any well bolted routes in tahquitz, the trad up there is very nice and the only reason to go. If you make it up there, check out Open book. it's a classic 5.9 route. Fingertrip is an excellent 5.7. 

There are only a few routes at Tahquitz and Suicide that you could call "sport" bolted. Even fully bolted face climbs are not going to be tightly bolted; expect to have to climb a bit (or more) between bolts.

There are many great easy and moderate trad routes at both Crags, particularly Tahquitz. The majority of these routes at Tahquitz are multi-pitch and require at least a moderate-sized trad rack, and will NOT feature bolted anchors. Expect to walk-off these climbs (Class 3).

the heathan 5.11b - bolted like a sport route (except for the last pitch, but you can rap the first two ptiches)
farwell horizontal - 5.10b - bolted like a sport route, although there is some 5.9 climbing, which is protected by placing gear
Jizz - 5.10b - bolted like a sporto route (5.8ish climbing at the top is protected by placing gear)
Step right up - 5.10a - easy climbing to the first bolt (low 5th) then bolted like a sport route
Showstopper - 5.10a - again long run to first bolt then bolted like a sport route
Micky mantle - 5.8 - very run out but easy climbing and quite fun. all bolted

Easy Trad Climbs:
The maiden - 5.4
Fingertrip - 5.7
Left Ski Track 5.6
The trough - Mostly 4th class with a few low 5th moves in the mix
Jam crack/daves deviation (5.9) -> piton pooper -> upper royal arch - 5.8
Angels Fright - 5.6
Jensens Jaunt (5.6) --> to traitor horn (5.8)

there are more, just gotta look between the "cracks", but tahquitz is not the place to go for "sport" climbing. See holcomb valley, el cajon mtn, eagle peak, and many others in LA.

Suicide has some of the best "bolted" lines in SoCal but they for sure ain't sport climbs. 

Valhalla @ Suicide.

Do yourself a favor and skip mission gorge & new jack.

This route  is about as much "sport climbing" as you're going to get over there. Serpentine - Weeping Wall on Suicide. Keep it in your sport route bolted mind.....The bolts are a good 10-15+ apart. You can easily take a 20'+ footer if you're slab game isn't on point. 

Also...Don't bother trekking up to El Cajon Mtn before October, if not later, unless it's overcast and colder outside. You will be cooked alive and have blisters on your feet from the temperate on the rock. Proceed with caution climbing up there.

ColinW wrote: This route  is about as much "sport climbing" as you're going to get over there. Serpentine - Weeping Wall on Suicide. 

False.

I love these threads!

OP asked about sport climbing in an area that has no sport climbing. Says she will also consider very easy trad.

Second response suggests Open Book!

Most of the responses are from people that don't even jump when they belay... they aren't sport climbers!

OP:

- You haven't mentioned a partner. Given the description of your abilities, do not take a noob along to your first time at Tahquitz.

- There is basically no sport climbing at Tahquitz or anywhere in the Idy area. Bolts don't mean sport. If you want to sport climb for real, go somewhere else.

- If you want to trad climb, real trad climbing, there's plenty. And plenty of easy stuff. But don't lead on even a 5.7 or 5.8 up there if your trad skills are not solid. Start on the really easy ones: 5.3s, even the 5.1s. The "easy" ones are all fun and you'll get a feel for what Tahquitz  is about.

But really, just go somewhere else if you want sport climbing.

I can't even believe they allow a thread like this.  Admins do something!

dylan w wrote: Hello!

There aren't any well bolted routes in tahquitz, the trad up there is very nice and the only reason to go. If you make it up there, check out Open book. it's a classic 5.9 route. Fingertrip is an excellent 5.7. 

I assume this is a troll... The start alone on Open book is scary on lead. Then to think a Sport climber will know how to layback and place good gear.... Same with Fingertrip, would not recommend jumping on that... 

Weeping Wall climbs- Bolt protected face climbing was basically invented on that wall and more importantly accepted by the “Old Crusty Climbers” in what 1965? At that time any bolts were considered “Weak Style” by most.
Heck “Revelations” is 5.10... it has plenty of bolts, it’s safe to take falls on. The FA was done by folks wearing hiking boots!
Go climb those climbs- they will make you feel alive.

Gumby! Mickey Mantle a sport climb?!?!?! Lol u funny man.

There are lots of moderate sport routes at Tahquitz,  just the bolts haven't been installed yet, so bring your compressor.

master gumby wrote: the heathan 5.11b - bolted like a sport route (except for the last pitch, but you can rap the first two ptiches)
farwell horizontal - 5.10b - bolted like a sport route, although there is some 5.9 climbing, which is protected by placing gear
Jizz - 5.10b - bolted like a sporto route (5.8ish climbing at the top is protected by placing gear)
Step right up - 5.10a - easy climbing to the first bolt (low 5th) then bolted like a sport route
Showstopper - 5.10a - again long run to first bolt then bolted like a sport route
Micky mantle - 5.8 - very run out but easy climbing and quite fun. all bolted

Easy Trad Climbs:
The maiden - 5.4
Fingertrip - 5.7
Left Ski Track 5.6
The trough - Mostly 4th class with a few low 5th moves in the mix
Jam crack/daves deviation (5.9) -> piton pooper -> upper royal arch - 5.8
Angels Fright - 5.6
Jensens Jaunt (5.6) --> to traitor horn (5.8)

there are more, just gotta look between the "cracks", but tahquitz is not the place to go for "sport" climbing. See holcomb valley, el cajon mtn, eagle peak, and many others in LA.

Thanks for putting this list together! It’s great. Is there any chance you are looking for a Pokey? : )

<crickets>

Eliza Thornberry wrote:

Thanks for putting this list together! It’s great. Is there any chance you are looking for a Pokey? : )

I appreciate a good troll and will agree to play along. In regard to your question, Gumby lost Pokey some years ago and has yet to find a replacement.

There are a few good climbs which are almost sport, maybe a piece or two of gear but plentiful bolts. They tend to be on the stiff side, but generally well protected.
 
 What grades are you looking for? If you were doing 11b following, then some these might be something to set your sights on as you get more comfortable with the place.
 
 Edgehogs is about as close to sport climbing a trad route can get. Really fun 10 bolt 2nd pitch. Rap anchors to the deck from top of P4. P1 isn't sport, but the hardest moves are past a bolt and a pin (?) Maybe some gear along with the bolts on P3 and 4 (I can't recall. The book will probably say.)
 
 There are three well bolted face climbs on the White Maiden Buttress (shown in Bob Gaine’s 2013 “Best Climbs of…”) Iron Maiden, Maiden Heaven and Maiden Voyage. Not officially sport, a piece or two in addition to all the bolts. Gaine's guide lists what you need. Gear anchor/tree rap. IMO there should be a fixed anchor for these climbs, but what do I know… Two .10’s and and a light .12. This (I think) is Iron Maiden. I'm sure someone will correct me if it's not :

Bedrock, at the far end of the Flintstone slab, is a great .11a bolted slab to a fixed anchor. Maybe a bit hard for the grade?
 
 If your comfortable leading an easy straightforward crack with good gear to a ledge, the upper 2/3rd’s of Chingadera (one pitch to a rap anchor) is incredibly well protected, but IMO at .11a it’s a ruthless sandbag.
 
 All that said, I think your best bet on Tahquitz is to do lots of mileage on the easier trad routes and work your way up from there. You’ll get to know your way around the rock. It's nice to have a partner who can swing leads with you.

On the long trad routes lots of folks have trouble with route finding. I’m always amazed when I see someone up at the base of the rock, book in hand, trying to figure out where they are, and they don’t have a clue. Route finding on Tahquitz can be tricky. I’d suggest standing in the top loop of Humber Park, binoculars and guidebook in hand. Identify all the main features; the Maiden Buttress; The NW Recess; the Shield with the Vampire on it; Where the Trough goes up; etc. The more you can identify the better. Then when you emerge from the trees at the base of the rock, you’ll have an easier time of getting oriented. It’s pretty hard to stay on route when you start in the wrong place.

Eliza Thornberry wrote: I just moved down to San Diego from NorCal and I keep hearing about Tahquitz and am looking to get out there soon! Does anyone know if there are any well-protected bolted routes ? Or very easy trad routes that they recommend. It’s been a while since I’ve done trad climbing. I used to follow up to 11b but my head game has been pretty bad and I’ve only led up to 5.8 myself. 

Beware. The old timers have no idea what "sport climbers" are like these days.

There are zero "well-protected bolted routes" on Tahquitz. Notice all the caveats people throw out after their list their selections? Even if the bolts were close enough to mimic sport climbing, which in some sections they are, the style of the climbing (think steep slab) would slap any "bad head game" sport climber in their face, not to mention the lack of rap anchors, the approach, etc.

If you wanna climb there get on the stoopid easy trad first and work up (sort on MP for grade then stars). Don't be evil Tahquitz next victim. Seriously.