Climbers in/near Buffalo, NY
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How did you guys get into climbing? There isn’t much in the area either outdoors or gym. I know there is the Niagara Climbing Center and the new Central Rock gym recently opened that I climbed at not long ago. Saw some people climbing harder routes so I’m guessing they must have some experience. |
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I'm from Ontario but I've met some people from Buffalo who climb at the Milton crags. |
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There are 2 climbing gyms, as mentioned, and the closest outdoor climbing is in Ontaio on the escarpment, with the Niagara Glenn being right over the border in Niagara Fall and as you continue north there is trad and sport climbing a various areas. Otherwise you're traveling to the Gunks or Adirondacks (5-6hrs), New River Gorge (7hrs), or the Red River Gorge (9hrs). |
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Why has no one mentioned Little Falls, NY? |
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I visited Rock City Park in Olean, NY as a kid, and when I got into rock climbing decades later, I always thought it would be a great place to climb if you could get the owners' permission. It's a long ways away from where I live now though. |
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I started climbing in Buffalo around 2003. My brother and his friend got me into it. We'd spend hours at the NCC on the weekends. We'd boulder for a bit, walk over to Tim Horton's, crush the requisite doughnuts and coffee, then back to flailing. It was awesome. |
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In addition to everyone else's experience, I met lots of climbers through the Alpine Club of Canada,....both American and Canadians. The Toronto chapter is quite busy and the national chapter runs lots of events and training progtams and has fantastic facilities throughout canada.. |
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(Prepare for incoming wall of text) As long as you have the ability to enter Canada and don’t mind primarily climbing on (polished) limestone you can boulder or sport/trad/ice climb up hundreds of lines up to 5.13/v13 anywhere from 25-75 minute outside of the city. Good local options include the glen for bouldering and mount nemo / rattlesnake for sport / trad. Guidebooks are easily accessible for each. Both are in Canada but you’ll be able to find someone heading there every weekend no issue. Even on weekdays you can find someone. If you’re looking for potential partners, most outdoor climbers migrated to CRG You’ll have to do some digging to wade through the gumbies but you’ll find anyone from young crushers to crusty trad dads any day of the week. Most people i know locally that climb hard are weekend warriors out of necessity but take a few large trips each year. Weekend trips include:-local crags mentioned above-In less than 4.5 hrs you can be in the gunks, bon echo, lions head or the swamp-For a 3 day weekend you can climb in the new or Adirondacks (6.5hrs) the red or Rumney (7.5hrs). -note there is also some sandstone bouldering in Allegheny national forest in PA about 2hrs away and a new guidebook was released last year i believe. Haven’t been so i can’t speak to it’s quality but if you like sandstone slopers might be worth it. You can find some beta of YouTube FYI. So within a weekend you can climb any style on and type of rock. Not too bad in my opinion. Of course we don’t have the access of SLC or Denver but for a city, it’s not the worst place to be. Farther than that would probably be a week long trip but off the top of my head i know of friends who have done alpine in the bugs / big wall in Yosemite / sport in Thailand / bouldering in font. You name it, someone here has been there. I really love the climbing community here. We’re small (but growing) and all super stoked, humble in my opinion and supportive of each other. Let anyone, myself included, know you’re looking for partners and even if we can’t accommodate we can put you in touch with someone. Let me know if you have any questions. More than happy to help! Best, |
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Thanks for the responses! I’m from Buffalo originally but didn’t start climbing til I moved to Maryland recently. It just seemed like there weren’t that many options in Buffalo compared to down here but I was just ignorant of what’s around. |
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Send me a PM next time you’re in town and want to climb. If I can’t make it, I’ll at least try to put you in touch with someone. |
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Thanks, will definitely do that!! |