Mountain Project Logo

Jumar setup when leading without daisies

Original Post
Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873

I recently picked up an alfifi and have not been using daisies while leading aid. For people who don’t lead with daisies, do you carry 2 daisies anyways to use while jumaring? Also, what do you clip into the anchor with if you aren’t using daisies? (obviously the rope, but to position yourself closer to the anchor)

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203

So your aiders are just free and not connected to your body/harness? Seems not fun if/when you drop a ladder+piece that ripped during a fall

Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873
Ross Goldberg wrote: So your aiders are just free and not connected to your body/harness? Seems not fun if/when you drop a ladder+piece that ripped during a fall

Yep, no daisies is a common technique, especially on easier aid

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 137
Ross Goldberg wrote: So your aiders are just free and not connected to your body/harness? Seems not fun if/when you drop a ladder+piece that ripped during a fall

Usually when you fall your instinct is to death grip what ever you're holding onto, so it is unlikely you'll drop the ladder.

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

I have a subaider (2 step) sling on each aider that clip to my harness when I'm jumaring.
Straight out of Advanced Rockcraft.

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203
Ben Horowitz wrote:

Usually when you fall your instinct is to death grip what ever you're holding onto, so it is unlikely you'll drop the ladder.

Fair enough

Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873

Bump 

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
Ross Goldberg wrote: So your aiders are just free and not connected to your body/harness? Seems not fun if/when you drop a ladder+piece that ripped during a fall

Its clipped to the rope dude

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203
Rob warden The space lizard wrote:

Its clipped to the rope dude

I usually clip the rope the the piece behind me as I go so theoretically if the placement I am weighted on pulls then it would not be clipped to the rope. But didn't really give much thought to the death grip part of things

ali64 510 · · Great Barrington, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I too lead without daisies. When it comes time to jumar I use one shoulder length for each jumar. The lower jumar is girth hitched to my belay loop and upper jumar is girth hitched to my tie in points. This length works great for me. But i have short arms. If you are tall it might not work as well. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Rob warden The space lizard wrote:

Its clipped to the rope dude

Hahahahaha ahem, yeah, that's not how leading with ladders works, dude. 

If your rope is clipped to your ladder when you're bounce testing a piece, might be time to spend a few minutes relearning aid sequences. 
Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Clint Cummins wrote: I have a subaider (2 step) sling on each aider that clip to my harness when I'm jumaring.
Straight out of Advanced Rockcraft.

I did the same, Clint. Mine were made out of 1/2” webbing! 

I use an alfrifi and generally don’t use daisies. I do use daisies when I’m in real awkward positions, otherwise, I just let them dangle. I use them at anchors and for jugging. I’ve tried to use a fixed length sling but I find that I adjust them quite frequently while cleaning to accommodate different situations. 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Jumar setup when leading without daisies"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.