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Hardest all natural routes at Mt. Charleston?

Original Post
Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1,055

Hi does anyone know which are the hardest natural routes (without manufactured holds) at Mt Charleston? Cheers!!

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,640

"Manufactured holds"?

JOE RANDOM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 30

It might be "The Other" at the Roost. The locals seem to say .13c or d. But maybe there's something else, depending on your definition of manufactured. 

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,752

How many definitions of "manufactured" are there? The holds are either chipped or they're not. The OP asked about "natural" routes or routes "without manufactured holds."

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

2/10.

Dylan Demyanek · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 4,039
Benjamin Chapman wrote: How many definitions of "manufactured" are there? The holds are either chipped or they're not. The OP asked about "natural" routes or routes "without manufactured holds."

In reality, there is some ambiguity here. If a loose or flexing block is removed from a route creating a jug, for example, does that constitute a manufactured hold? Does "comfortizing" the edge of a sharp pocket constitute chipping? Clearly a drilled pocket on a blank wall is manufactured, but there is a spectrum of possibilities to consider, and undoubtedly people will have differing opinions.

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 209

Not a fan 

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1,055
JOE RANDOM wrote: It might be "The Other" at the Roost. The locals seem to say .13c or d. But maybe there's something else, depending on your definition of manufactured. 

Thanks for actually providing some good info without being a smartass. The Other definitely caught my eye on my first visit a few weeks ago - the first portion has super cool movements and it seemed all natural when I climbed it.

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1,055
Dylan Demyanek wrote:

In reality, there is some ambiguity here. If a loose or flexing block is removed from a route creating a jug, for example, does that constitute a manufactured hold? Does "comfortizing" the edge of a sharp pocket constitute chipping? Clearly a drilled pocket on a blank wall is manufactured, but there is a spectrum of possibilities to consider, and undoubtedly people will have differing opinions.

I'm not trying to question local ethics at Charleston. Just looking to be inspired by some natural lines. Like you said, there is ambiguity for sure there - but I will draw my personal line when I try a route, as anyone else certainly would draw theirs. 

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 209
Fan Yang wrote:

I'm not trying to question local ethics at Charleston. Just looking to be inspired by some natural lines. Like you said, there is ambiguity for sure there - but I will draw my personal line when I try a route, as anyone else certainly would draw theirs. 

So you’re looking for a traditionally protected route?

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1,055
Lou Cerutti wrote:

So you’re looking for a traditionally protected route?

no, i am looking for information that you obviously cannot provide, so please start your own thread about whatever it is that you wish to argue. 

Ross Peritore · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2007 · Points: 70

I would think something like Manphibian, altho not sure if its all natural or not. There are a couple of other lines on that section of the wall as well that are as hard or harder than The Other.
Theres a few down in the cave as well....

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 209

Nothing to argue you just didn’t specify 

JOE RANDOM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 30

Funny I forgot this one- Aeolis Mons .14a. Not sure if it's been repeated to confirm the grade though. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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