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What radio system do you use?

Original Post
J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

I've got a couple of older Talkabouts and their size is good but there's no good way to attach a lanyard to them. What's a good light weight 2way with easy lanyard attachment capabilities that's dependable and not expensive? Not looking for miles upon miles of reach. These would mainly be for lead and follower communications on a long, winding, windy pitch.

TIA

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Leave them at home and learn signals with your partner that requires no communication and you agree to it before the leader leaves the ground.

Hand signals if you can see each other and rope signals if you cannot.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

+1 Jim----I'm a big fan of less yelling, more visual.....and in the event you can't see your partner.....for the follower, when the rope comes tight, wait one minute and you're on belay. As long as you keep your pitch-length in mind, all good.

that said, if you're into radios, awesome. PLEASE, for the love of pete, deactivate the little electronic sound those Talkabouts make when ending a transmission. dear god. i bought some tiny Talkabout ones on amazonia several years ago and they had a little slot at the base for a lanyard.....do some googleating and i bet you can find something you dig.

but take jim's wisdom. less radio, more strategery in pitch length, belay location!

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

Open up the two halves of your radio and figure out where you can safely drill a hole through them.  Then thread with some thin perlon and create a loop for clipping.

Jake G · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10

If I can't hear my partner I'll call them on the ol' cellphone. 90% of the time they'll pick up surprised to have signal. 

J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

Thanks for the advice. Im aware of rope signals. Time and place for that. Just wondering about radios for when using them. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

I always poo pooed the use of radios and still hardly ever use them.   The one exception is alpine climbing in wandering ledgy routes where wind and obstacles may make it tough to communicate.  Even rope signals are tough to decipher when the rope runs over ledges and rope drag increases.  The only time I have used them was when I climbed the East Buttress of Whitney with my son.   They worked great.  I’m taking my buddy up the EB in September and I’ll be bringing some form of lightweight radio.   Other than that I just don’t see the benefit.  

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

The rope. 

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

If your two-way radios dont have a lanyard loop, you can try drilling the belt clip on the back, then run a small cord through there. If not, then use a good quality Gorilla tape to secure the cord to them. I loop my radio through my sternum strap so it is close and easy to use. Radios are great for so many reasons when rope/hand signals fail. Choose a radio that can block any transmitted signal that does not have your unique ID code. That way you dont have to hear the campers a mile away when you are on your second to last pitch. You only hear your belayer letting you know you have 20 feet of rope left.

Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 127

When I big wall I totally use radios Pluss if it hits the fan you can call out for help with theses baby's no need for a spot. Check out the link baofengtech.us/?gclid=CjwKC… but you are supposed to have a license to use them

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

The anti-radio crowd is only right 97.8% of the time.  For the other 4.6% of the time (you’re taking a beginner/novice up a wandering multi pitch or alpine route), a small FRS/GMRS is gold and avoids a ton of confusion, and worth it.  I have a few small Cobra’s (hated the brand before, but these rock) that are about the size and weight of two Bic lighters (with lithium AAA).

Read the Howardrepogle link in the other thread on rappelling.   Just a great -but tragic- example of an all too common mis-communication scenario.  

If the whole team is experienced and has their shit wired, of course radios are an unnecessary waste.  You could probably skip the foil helmet as well.  Not sure where you all climb, But in my experience, I’ve encountered more teams that could probably use both the radios and the foil rather than the opposite....even on 5.11s

P.S.   this advice only applies 102.4% of the time

J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

Thanks mark. I agree. That's what these are heard for. I'll check out the cobras. 

Matthew Corinth · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

Big fan of using the BCA BC Link 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

I would just get a cheap pair of Motorola radios, you are only separated by 200', no need to get anything fancy just to say "off belay".

Brandon.S · · Palm Springs, Ca · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 15

I just started using radios when on multipitch routes and I'm liking it a lot.  Rope signals are there as a back up but I'll use em even if I could get by yelling because its just so clear and there's no back and forth or yelling twice to just to be sure.  Anyways here's how I rigged my talkabouts with a keychain ring.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

Zip tie to the shoulder strap of my pack

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Agree with Kevin on zipping, taping, bungeeing to pack shoulder strap or gear sling.  Removable is nice so I use thin bungees.  I found a lanyard or ring to be too floppy as sole attachment point.  

I guess my latest disposable set are Midland brand not Cobra.

(I’m kind of a radio snob in that I have many high end multi-frequency Units for marine and aviation use as well and I’m licensed, but I’ve found these super cheap “midlands” to be an awesome value.  I have Motorola’s as well but they kinda suck (bigger, heavier) like The North Face and other companys that have “evolved”, the quality and design ain’t what it used to be. )

Edit:  also agree with turning off the transmission “beeper”.  That shit carries and is annoying.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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