Chipping discovered at Stoney Point

Photo taken by Michael S at Stoney's Nabisco Canyon.

Is Louie back in town?!?!

In reference to the thread title, while those certainly appear fresh, and many of the more veteran locals could attest, this is hardly the first instance of chipping at Stoney Point (in case anybody cares).  Just sayin.

If I, or most of the locals EVER find somebody chiseling or chipping at Stony Point, things will get real ugly real quick.

Leave your chipping tools at home, you are not god.

Respect the rock, pick up your and any trash you encounter, leave things better than you found them.

Horrible behavior. This kind of vandalism is far worse than all the graffiti, broken bottles, and dogshit that can make Stoney unpleasant. Whoever you are, don’t let Meathead catch you pulling that kind of shit.

Tony Sartin wrote: Horrible behavior. This kind of vandalism is far worse than all the graffiti, broken bottles, and dogshit that can make Stoney unpleasant. Whoever you are, don’t let Meathead catch you pulling that kind of shit.

No joke, at least Jew Dick eventually wore off, that BS is there to stay. Unfortunately I think the glass out there is now a full on part of the DG.

This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

E T wrote: This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

I disagree that new routes actually spread out the crowds. The muggles are always going to go to the closest and most "classic" climbing.

E T wrote: This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

The only thing that keeps alterations like this in check is pushback from the local community- and when it comes to such egregious acts, the harder the pushback, the better.

ET, your post seems to oddly rationalize alteration like this by saying that this isn’t really any different than the cleaning that occurs when a route is established, and people’s reaction to this kind of alteration will lead to restrictions on further route development, and therefore higher concentration of climbers on established routes.

If I have that right, it’s a really sideways rationale for numerous reasons, not the least of which is that there is no equivalency between the kind of minor alteration to the rock that takes place when a route is first cleaned, and the kind of blatant, dramatic creation of holes and letterbox slots that appear to have been created in this incident.

Man I bet whoever did this is worried, LA locals are even tougher than SD locals

LOL!!!!

E T wrote: This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

Well stated & spot on & to add to the good walls part any traveled climber will reaffirm that most of the best routes on all the best walls in the world feature some chipped holds whether it be France, Spain, or even the Nose here in our Golden State. 

Jay Brenner wrote: Man I bet whoever did this is worried, LA locals are even tougher than SD locals

LOL!!!!

Word. This "community" policing is a joke. Just a bunch of internet hardmen who write checks their ass can't cash. Who ever "chipped" clearly doesn't give a fuck what anyone thinks.

E T wrote: This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

From this post you made it's obvious to me that you have not climbed in very many places on this planet. Most cleaning on routes involves brushing off a bit of lichen, gardening out some dirt or grass, and possibly removing an objectionably loose block or flake. Have you ever climbed in Tuolomne Meadows?  No alteration of the rock is necessary nor warranted.  In the Needles, just a couple of routes have some degree of aggressive cleaning, the rest are just as nature provided, as it should be.  Maybe you are just trying to troll but chipping or chiseling is no joking matter and us locals take this stuff seriously.

Jens K. - I can't believe you could make an assertion like this with a straight face.  Most of the best routes on the entire earth are au-natural, as they should be.

E T wrote: This literally happens at every crag ever established. PERIOD. Even trad routes and FA’s when first cleaned, are creating holds that weren’t there. If you guys don’t chill the fuck out (as a whole) climbing areas will become more and more crowded as new route production will be banned. See what all the fussing over guide book sales got the TenSleep community. Now it’s just a bunch of dingleberries crowding the good walls. 

wow this is fucking dumb

William Leventhal wrote:

From this post you made it's obvious to me that you have not climbed in very many places on this planet. .

Jens K. - I can't believe you could make an assertion like this with a straight face.  Most of the best routes on the entire earth are au-natural, as they should be.

You’re who? And have climbed where? 

Rumny, Rifle, RRG, the New, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, TenSleep, Clarks, CCC, Spearfish.... any sport area has comfortized/modified holds, albeit in the high grade ranges. Talk to people who have climbed outside of their “hometown” and they’ll let you know.  IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE. Until then have fun being a local. Cool guy.

E T wrote:

You’re who? And have climbed where? 

Rumny, Rifle, RRG, the New, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, TenSleep, Clarks, CCC, Spearfish.... any sport area has comfortized/modified holds, albeit in the high grade ranges. Talk to people who have climbed outside of their “hometown” and they’ll let you know.  IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE. Until then have fun being a local. Cool guy.

Wow, this statement says it all.   This is what happens when kids start spraying with no clue as to what they are talking about.  

E T wrote:

You’re who? And have climbed where? 

Rumny, Rifle, RRG, the New, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, TenSleep, Clarks, CCC, Spearfish.... any sport area has comfortized/modified holds, albeit in the high grade ranges. Talk to people who have climbed outside of their “hometown” and they’ll let you know.  IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE. Until then have fun being a local. Cool guy.

Normally I don't post anything. But this dudes arrogance made me laugh out loud!!  

Justin S wrote:

No joke, at least Jew Dick eventually wore off, that BS is there to stay. Unfortunately I think the glass out there is now a full on part of the DG.

Am I the only one who had to read this a couple times? 

Hmmm...  ubiquitous bickering between old school traddy guys and new school sporto guys...  

The fact is that you're both right!  Areas like Tuolomne and the Needles need no chipping or aggressive cleaning because they're special, one-of-a-kind areas with basically pristine rock.  And modern sport areas are varying degrees of choss that require extra *attention* to make climbable routes that last more than a few ascents.  (And then there's Ceuse...  )  "Best routes" is obviously a matter of opinion and from the sound of things Jens K. is more of a sport than traditional climber.

Bottom line:  respect the local ethic.  Coloring outside the lines of an area's accepted practices shouldn't be tolerated.

Anyone ever do the down-climb off Turlock?

Dirk Diggler wrote: Anyone ever do the down-climb off Turlock?

How about Three Little Pigs?