Climbing in the Dolomites - cams or no cams?

Most of the routes! Although there were lots of fixed pins on most of the routes so I guess I'm not including a possible placement immediately next to a pin or a in situ thread. Some that stand out in my mind were Little Michelluzi (Piz Ciavazes) and Old South Face (Sass Da Ciampac); in both cases there was plenty of fixed protection wherever there was nontrivial climbing.

Thanks Ben, interesting.... haven’t done those routes, hasn’t been my experience on what I’ve done which is not to say there isn’t places where there hasn’t been long sections with no gear but I’ve always gotten a few good pieces per pitch to compliment the assortment of hardware in place......except maybe the Tissi rt where there’s been huge rock fall over the roof at the end of the long traverse w/ the famous hourglass thread....that’s way harder now and miles & miles to good gear, (fortunately it wasn’t my lead) ........but what do I know.
   Cheers 

My memories, such as they are, are of generally being able to get gear.  I will revisit this in a few weeks.

I climbed little Michelluzi and found the rock solid and gear relatively plentiful... Definitely more than 1 piece a pitch. The Crux pitch is protected by pitons though (and is brilliant). The dorigatti route on piz da lec on the other hand was a rotten with choss and the day was significantly less mellow than the mountain project description lends itself to.

Just got back from a couple weeks there, though we had generally poor weather and bailed to Finale for a week.  We managed 4 shorter routes and a day at Cinque Torri.  Due in part to the weather we were on easier routes and the rock quality was not as good as on many of the routes I've done in the past.  So, we climbed a 5-pitch arête on Sass de Stria, a 10-pitch link-up on the S Face of the Lagazuoi, the Comici on Piccolo Falzarego, and the Comici on Punta Col di Varda.  All had some fixed gear, Punta col Di Varda much less so, maybe one or two pins per pitch.  I took the #4 ultralight camalot for the first time and used the heck out of it.  Quality of the gear placements was generally quite good, as I've observed in the past.  I know there are more modern routes and slab routes with lots of fixed gear but there are also many routes that require a standard rack.

ddriver wrote: Just got back from a couple weeks there, though we had generally poor weather and bailed to Finale for a week.  We managed 4 shorter routes and a day at Cinque Torri.  Due in part to the weather we were on easier routes and the rock quality was not as good as on many of the routes I've done in the past.  So, we climbed a 5-pitch arête on Sass de Stria, a 10-pitch link-up on the S Face of the Lagazuoi, the Comici on Piccolo Falzarego, and the Comici on Punta Col di Varda.  All had some fixed gear, Punta col Di Varda much less so, maybe one or two pins per pitch.  I took the #4 ultralight camalot for the first time and used the heck out of it.  Quality of the gear placements was generally quite good, as I've observed in the past.  I know there are more modern routes and slab routes with lots of fixed gear but there are also many routes that require a standard rack.

How were the crowds?

grog m wrote:

How were the crowds?

The weather probably concentrated climbers somewhat.  Three other parties on Sass de Stria, two other parties on the Lagazuoi, several parties on Falzarego.  Punta Col di Varda is a bit off the circuit.  Cinque Torri on a Saturday was a zoo, never seen it like that.  Parties at every belay on Torres Barancio/Romana/Lusy, queing everywhere.

The passes and lots were filling early.  Passo Tre Croci was unbelievable with hikers.  Drove through Selva a couple times and I didn't remember it being such a destination, but read they get a million visitors a year in Val Gardena.  Cortina was busy but not out of control.  Did not get to Canazei/Sella/Pordoi.

Randy,
My dad lives in the Veneto and I’ll be visiting him in late September through early October. The Pala group is close to me (1.5 hr) and I’m hoping to return but am open to others groups. Hit me up if you need a partner.
Kevin