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Mt Rainier twice in a day

Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

In regards to climbing Rainier solo, it can be totally reasonable if conditions are good, and sketchy at other times (obvious, I know)

I soloed it twice (up Emmons, down DC) as part of the Infinity loop earlier this summer, but I had climbed it with a rope and partner just two days earlier. So I knew it was in prime shape, and felt comfortable going ropeless.

One thing to note: a specific solo permit is required, and the rangers take it pretty seriously. The application is online and should be submitted in advance, they might take a week or more to process. You have to submit a resume and discuss rescue options in a variety of situations, so take the time to fill it out thoroughly.

Cheers!
Scott

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

This is seriously bad-ass!  Almost makes me want to do it.  Though I'm not sure I could handle the pain cave for that long!

One question for Jason.  Why such heavy duty boots?  I think those are G2 SM's you are wearing.  I would of thought a trango cube would be more than adequate this time of year?  I heard Chad had actually used track spikes on some of his record setting attempts!

Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240
Mikey Schaefer wrote: This is seriously bad-ass!  Almost makes me want to do it.  Though I'm not sure I could handle the pain cave for that long!

One question for Jason.  Why such heavy duty boots?  I think those are G2 SM's you are wearing.  I would of thought a trango cube would be more than adequate this time of year?  I heard Chad had actually used track spikes on some of his record setting attempts!

Those are the new G5's, the batura redesign. Lighter than evos.... I'm jonesing for a pair!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405
John Sims wrote: I've got to say, this thread is making me want to get back into shape and do it next spring... Anyone interested? 

@Brett - that's so rad! The Cascade Trifecta!!! http://fastestknowntime.proboards.com/thread/53/cascades-trifecta-wa


@John, that stokes me up! I bet with more folks getting out there and doing it, you'll wrangle an enthusiastic partner!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405
Jordan W wrote:

Those are the new G5's, the batura redesign. Lighter than evos.... I'm jonesing for a pair!

Mikey - Jordan is correct.  That set-up (G5's + CAMP xlc Nanos) is not much heavier than the Red Trango Cubes + Grivel Airtechs.  When you start that second lap, your metabolism is in the crapper and it's a little tricker to keep your core temp up. Add in a slowed summit pace (6 hours vs 8 hours), and I was happy with a nice little insurance policy of boots that I could slog slowly in if need be.

I could easily have done the second lap in lighter boots, but I just wasn't sure how it would go (weather, pace, snow conditions, etc). I also don't own a 2nd pair of light boots, so I decided to rock the g5's

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
John Sims wrote: I've got to say, this thread is making me want to get back into shape and do it next spring... Anyone interested? 

Hit me up next spring man! 

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405
Long Ranger wrote: I guess if I can my bike from the Pacific to start things off - sure: I'm in.

#Shocker that Justin would want to do that! OR.....the Cascade Trifecta, all human powered!!!  @Long Ranger you in...??? (but I get to draft off ya ;) ) 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Of course I'm in!

Matthew Bunker · · Seattle · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Hey I'm definitely interested in it next spring/early summer as well - as long as we get to ski down!

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Garou Kaijin wrote:

Congrats Jason. That is mighty impressive!


If you don't mind sharing, I'd be very interested in hearing about your training. I just fractured my heel and have some down time. I'm trying to use this time wisely and improve my own routine.  At my peak, I spent so much time on endurance training that I had nothing left for climbing. The opposite is also true, when I was climbing more in the past, my endurance would suffer. 

It looks like you're able to juggle being both an ultra athlete while also climbing 5.12. What's the secret sauce to performing so well at both disciplines?

Jason has got THE STOKE!

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 486
Long Ranger wrote:

Jason has got THE STOKE!

Agreed! I draft off it often!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405
Caped Baldy wrote:

Congrats Jason. That is mighty impressive!


If you don't mind sharing, I'd be very interested in hearing about your training. I just fractured my heel and have some down time. I'm trying to use this time wisely and improve my own routine.  At my peak, I spent so much time on endurance training that I had nothing left for climbing. The opposite is also true, when I was climbing more in the past, my endurance would suffer. 

It looks like you're able to juggle being both an ultra athlete while also climbing 5.12. What's the secret sauce to performing so well at both disciplines?

@Caped Baldy, just sent you a longer PM - but in a nutshell I often shift my focus for a bigger goal.  For example, there was very little hard climbing happening in preparation for the Rainier Infinity Loop.  Now that my endurance adventures for the year have quieted down...it's time to start pulling down a little harder ;)

Gavin Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
John Sims wrote: I've got to say, this thread is making me want to get back into shape and do it next spring... Anyone interested? 

Hey John, what did you decide? I'm heading there soon to do it twice in a day (and a bit). I first tried this 10 years ago, but wasn't able to complete it due to various reasons. Going back with a buddy this time to finish this project! We are starting and finishing at WRC - Schurman - Summit - Muir - Paradise - Muir - Summit - Schurman - WRC. That's my preferred way to tackle this monster. Should be a fun day out. :) 

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405
Gavin Turner wrote:

Hey John, what did you decide? I'm heading there soon to do it twice in a day (and a bit). I first tried this 10 years ago, but wasn't able to complete it due to various reasons. Going back with a buddy this time to finish this project! We are starting and finishing at WRC - Schurman - Summit - Muir - Paradise - Muir - Summit - Schurman - WRC. That's my preferred way to tackle this monster. Should be a fun day out. :) 

Right on Gavin!  So pumped for you guys. Keep us posted when you giver a go!


On another note, there are two women attempting the Rainier Infinity Loop right now as we speak, and there's talk of 3 more blasting off this weekend. Big props to everyone getting after it out in that incredible playground.

John Sims · · Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 65
Gavin Turner wrote:

Hey John, what did you decide? I'm heading there soon to do it twice in a day (and a bit). I first tried this 10 years ago, but wasn't able to complete it due to various reasons. Going back with a buddy this time to finish this project! We are starting and finishing at WRC - Schurman - Summit - Muir - Paradise - Muir - Summit - Schurman - WRC. That's my preferred way to tackle this monster. Should be a fun day out. :) 

Haha, what did I decide? Uh.... to move to Wyoming. The mountains are smaller here ;) 

Did you end up doing it? Or attempting it? I am super curious to hear peoples logistics and stories, as it is still very high on my list of things to do.

John Sims · · Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 65
Jason Antin wrote:

Right on Gavin!  So pumped for you guys. Keep us posted when you giver a go!


On another note, there are two women attempting the Rainier Infinity Loop right now as we speak, and there's talk of 3 more blasting off this weekend. Big props to everyone getting after it out in that incredible playground.

Right on!! Good for them! Rainier is the perfect training ground to try bigger, harder, and longer things. I am always psyched to hear about people getting after it up there.  

Gavin Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
John Sims wrote:

Haha, what did I decide? Uh.... to move to Wyoming. The mountains are smaller here ;) 

Did you end up doing it? Or attempting it? I am super curious to hear peoples logistics and stories, as it is still very high on my list of things to do.

Hey John, getting ready to do the DT in the next week or so. I'll write a note here once it's all done and plan on doing a write up somewhere... cheers.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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