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Who's buying this crap?

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Did you order enough to measure open gate vs closed gate?

frank bonnevie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 87

just posting for the undates

Justin Butler · · Murrieta · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 261
Cereal Killer wrote: Update, surprisingly it's arrived already! Just showed up yesterday and I'm posting from B.F.E. Kentucky from my families vacation rental now and didn't get it forwarded to climbing innovations before I left. I'll send it once I return to reality on the 8th.

I will say; it does look pretty damn good, scarry good... I bet this one survives 22kn but that's not really saying much, anyone can get lucky and pump out a good part once in a while... It's consistency and QC that's the issue. Plus IP rights.

Any update on this Carabiners weight limit? I'm still very interested in this thread

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

It is not remotely expensive to make a carabiner that is strong enough

It is very expensive to make a carabiner to the finish and long term performance of a DMM carabiner.

I doubt the breaking strength is the issue as much as how they would hold up and perform over time.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

I give it 50/50 that it pull tests to spec.

I give it 0.1/99.9 that a company that makes cheap knockoff products has enough at stake/cares enough to consistently make quality products.

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: It is not remotely expensive to make a carabiner that is strong enough
This is China we're talking about. The land of artificial eggs
Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

I've done a lot of testing of China vs USA rigging parts, If you take in the 5 to 1 safety standards we use in the non climbing world most of the China parts are real close but not predicable

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Rigging as in construction? 

Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15
Trad Man wrote: Rigging as in construction? 

Rock and roll / circus

Emil Alejandria · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Cereal Killer wrote: Well I ordered one, I'll keep ya'll updated... Don't expect it to get here from the slow boat for 6-8 weeks. 

Did the boat ever make it?

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

There were some fake Petzl biners around a few years ago that looked so good they could only be disproved by destruction testing 

JWatt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

I thought this was going to be a thread about So Ill.

Dirty30 Dirty30 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Guy Keesee wrote: So someone “in the know” please confirm that BD makes the gear back in the USA now.

Most Chinese stuff is crap. I spent 35 years in Precision Industrial Bearing field. 25 working for FAG... no jokes please.
To save money they use substandard metals and cut corners. As the Chinese started to gain larger market share I and my associates ran into these hurdles- mostly this: “why should I pay you folks $1,200 each for that bearing when “Long March” will sell me the exact same bearing for $350”?
Being a good sales engineer, I would never run down the competitors product and would only point out the top quality of the FAG bearing.
The bearing I’m thinking of is commonly used on big ass drilling rigs and someone who uses my bearing could expect about 3 years of hard constant use. So I lost a annual contact that we had been getting for 30 years, my German boss Hans told me to not worry- “Chevron will be back soon - and it will be an emergency- ya?”
They were back soon... it seems the Chinese stuff lasted like 30 days then experienced catastrophic failure to a rig, causing substantial damage and cost. So the bottom line is this: how much is your life worth?? I find it is best to ask yourself this question when at a hanging belay, a 1,000 feet up with a 150 lb haul bag, you might have a different opinion then when shopping at REI.

Climb on

My parents used a cheap knock off condom....and here we are

Used 2climb · · Far North · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

I would be willing to toss in some bucks to test more of these. Does anyone have capability to do a sub max multiple pull test? Do they do those on climbing gear? do like 100 pulls at 15kn.

Old Prospector · · UT · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 147
NegativeK wrote: I give it 50/50 that it pull tests to spec.

I give it 0.1/99.9 that a company that makes cheap knockoff products has enough at stake/cares enough to consistently make quality products.

Did this ever happen ? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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