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Rnwf half dome

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

Ok, good then. That sounds smart. Two big problems I see in new parties are lower outs, fast transitions at the anchor and actually French free climbing in order to keep the aiders away. You really don’t need aiders on RNWF except the zigzags. Best to just tie slings for that section.

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

I will stand with my first suggestion to not do the route if they are new to big walls and aid. 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Not sure what you mean by “accomplished” trad climbers.  If so, you’d probably have a more innate sense of how to approach this.  Do lots of long trad of up to mid 10.  Get really comfortable climbing 5.9 of all sizes.  Show up in the Valley a couple weeks early and do some longish climbs like the East Butt of Middle, NE Butt of Higher, maybe Serenity/Sons, etc.  If you’re climbing well and leading pitches in about 30 mins., you’re likely ready.  The Zig Zags are easy if you have easy aid dialed, so practice C1 and get efficient.  You can lose lots of time on those three pitches if you’re fumbling around.  I also agree that you might want to hop on something easier to access.  I remember hiking past some guys hiking out after bailing (on the trail, not the slabs) and, 30 yrs. later, I still remember their expressions.  Don’t be those guys.  

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

The first time we did it with a pack + bivy on Sandy, the second time in a day. Both experiences were a blast - absolutely loved being up there both times.

IAD is the smarter way to do it, everyone is right. But! Waking up on Big Sandy was pure magic.

We kept the pack really light - puffies, min water, nada más.

tlacny · · Atlanta · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Jack,

We did not cam hook any of the Zig Zags.  We use regular C4's and Aliens.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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