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How to Clean Route When There Are Not Anchors

Original Post
Jessie Bullard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

There is a 2 pitch climb in King’s Bluff in TN that I want to try that is a sport route. However, at the end of the route there are no anchors bolted. It is right next to the entrance of the crag where there are stairs so you can walk off the top of cliff and down the stairs. But how do I clean my draws? Would my partner lead it and clean as he goes and just be exposed as he pulls up the last hold? 

Hson P · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 54

You need to make a trad anchor and either belay from above, or hike back up and clean the anchor when done. 

Matt Loshin · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Jessie -

Just did the second pitch a month or so ago and left a quick link at the last bolt to get down. Not really worth the trouble to be honest.

Jackie S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 113

Just curious, why wouldn't whoever bolted this not have put an anchor? is it typical in kings bluff? I've never come across this on a sport route

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 3,031
Jackie Sweet wrote: Just curious, why wouldn't whoever bolted this not have put an anchor? is it typical in kings bluff? I've never come across this on a sport route

Maybe the developer wanted to encourage climbers to walk off the route (sounds quick and safe from the post above) instead of rappel. There's probably a good tree to belay from at the top of the route.

Jackie S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 113
David Bruneau wrote:

Maybe the developer wanted to encourage climbers to walk off the route (sounds quick and safe from the post above) instead of rappel.

Maybe that and/or to discourage top roping?

Ryan Underwood · · Laguna Hills, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55
David Bruneau wrote:

Maybe the developer wanted to encourage climbers to walk off the route (sounds quick and safe from the post above) instead of rappel. There's probably a good tree to belay from at the top of the route.

How would you belay off this?  Just curious.  Do I carry a static rope in a backpack coil on lead? Should a double length sling fit around?

OP, can you provide us with the route name?

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Am I missing something? Lead P1, belay the second up. Lead P2, anchor to a tree or build a trad anchor, belay the second up, then walk off. Whoever seconds each pitch cleans the draws. 

mat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 4
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Jessie Bullard wrote:
There is a 2 pitch climb in King’s Bluff in TN that I want to try that is a sport route.
 However, at the end of the route there are no anchors bolted. It is right next to the entrance of the crag where there are stairs
so you can walk off the top of cliff and down the stairs. But how do I clean my draws?
. . . . Would my partner lead it and clean as he goes and just be exposed as he pulls up the last hold? . . . . WTF ?

Daniel Joder wrote: Am I missing something? Lead P1, belay the second up. Lead P2, anchor to a tree or build a trad anchor, BELAY THE SECOND, WHO CLEANS the 'draws,                                                    then walk off.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Whoever seconds each pitch cleans the draws. 

No, well, Yes you're missing the OPs lack of understanding of the sequence of how climbing occurs.

 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

I figured as much, but you never know. 

wyattj8 · · Tennessee · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 31

I have done this route. There are not any fixed anchors at the top. When you walk out to the overlook directly behind you there is a rock that has 2 threads drilled in it.  Push a sling (narrow ones are easier) through and build your anchor. Leader leads, builds anchor, then belays partner from top and both walk off in to the sunset. Also you can do this as one pitch if desired.

Paul Coakley · · KY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 25

"Would my partner lead it and clean as he goes and just be exposed as he pulls up the last hold?"

Let's see...uhm....
*Lead climb the first two bolts.
*Down climb to the first bold and recover your draw.
*Lead climb to the third bolt.
*Down climb to the second bolt recover draw.
*Continue this process to the last bolt.
But wait!  LOLOL
Might as well free solo skipping the last bolt, cuz at this point... What's the difference anyway?
LOLOLOL

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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