How to Clean Route When There Are Not Anchors
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There is a 2 pitch climb in King’s Bluff in TN that I want to try that is a sport route. However, at the end of the route there are no anchors bolted. It is right next to the entrance of the crag where there are stairs so you can walk off the top of cliff and down the stairs. But how do I clean my draws? Would my partner lead it and clean as he goes and just be exposed as he pulls up the last hold? |
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You need to make a trad anchor and either belay from above, or hike back up and clean the anchor when done. |
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Jessie - |
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Just curious, why wouldn't whoever bolted this not have put an anchor? is it typical in kings bluff? I've never come across this on a sport route |
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Jackie Sweet wrote: Just curious, why wouldn't whoever bolted this not have put an anchor? is it typical in kings bluff? I've never come across this on a sport route Maybe the developer wanted to encourage climbers to walk off the route (sounds quick and safe from the post above) instead of rappel. There's probably a good tree to belay from at the top of the route. |
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David Bruneau wrote: Maybe that and/or to discourage top roping? |
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David Bruneau wrote: How would you belay off this? Just curious. Do I carry a static rope in a backpack coil on lead? Should a double length sling fit around? |
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Am I missing something? Lead P1, belay the second up. Lead P2, anchor to a tree or build a trad anchor, belay the second up, then walk off. Whoever seconds each pitch cleans the draws. |
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I assume it is these routes: |
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Jessie Bullard wrote: Daniel Joder wrote: Am I missing something? Lead P1, belay the second up. Lead P2, anchor to a tree or build a trad anchor, BELAY THE SECOND, WHO CLEANS the 'draws, then walk off. Whoever seconds each pitch cleans the draws. No, well, Yes you're missing the OPs lack of understanding of the sequence of how climbing occurs.
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I figured as much, but you never know. |
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I have done this route. There are not any fixed anchors at the top. When you walk out to the overlook directly behind you there is a rock that has 2 threads drilled in it. Push a sling (narrow ones are easier) through and build your anchor. Leader leads, builds anchor, then belays partner from top and both walk off in to the sunset. Also you can do this as one pitch if desired. |
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"Would my partner lead it and clean as he goes and just be exposed as he pulls up the last hold?" |




