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Best July Trad locations

Original Post
Math Bert · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 90

Let's say you can go anywhere in the country for some multipitch trad climbing in July.  Only requirement (besides not being a hellhole in July):  It's got to be reasonably accessible from a major airport (like Red Rock style, but obviously not in July).  For example, Yosemite, 3.5 hours from SFO, doesn't work. 

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

I know you said in the country, but Squamish is the obvious choice. Second choice would be Tuolumne. Tuolumne(being in Yosemite National Park) does not fit your parameter of close to an airport. Squamish is fairly close to Vancouver International Airport (a little under 50 miles).

Soft Catch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

You can fly from LAX into Mammoth for about $200 additional cost round trip.

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

It may not be pretty as yosemite or tahoe, but Smith Rock has some surprisingly good trad and the redmond airport is 20 minutes away

Kevin Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
ClimbingOn wrote: I know you said in the country, but Squamish is the obvious choice. Second choice would be Tuolumne. Tuolumne(being in Yosemite National Park) does not fit your parameter of close to an airport. Squamish is fairly close to Vancouver International Airport (a little under 50 miles).

Squamish sucks in the summer. Don't come here.

Math Bert · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 90
Kevin Green wrote:

Squamish sucks in the summer. Don't come here.

This sounds like an offer for you to guide me.  May need to crash on your couch as well thx. 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
TR Fellhung wrote: Does Smith get hot in July?

Yep, but you can chase shade and the beer at the breweries is always cold

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 205

alpine

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Smith is quite doable in July. It may even be somewhat less busy than in better periods. You'll be restricted to shaded areas for sure - I can't think of a way to climb anything in the middle of the day there.

The thing to consider is that your choice of multipithes may be slightly restricted, depending how fast you are....

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Or jump in the crooked river, do a Gorge route, repeat

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,198
John Clark wrote: Or jump in the crooked river, do a Gorge route, repeat

Don't go climbing in the central oregon desert in July.


If you find yourself there, don't jump in this tepid, scum-coated body of water.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093
Kevin Green wrote:

Squamish sucks in the summer. Don't come here.

the head of the locals has spoken!  the gods are angry, there must be a sacrifice!  lolllzz....

i think JC must have baked his brain at smith, 'cause it would be hotter than ballz there in summer.  you can chase shade at red rocks in the summer too (actually a lot easier than you can at smith), but you won't catch me doing it!  (just busting your chunks JC, i admire your enthusiasm and tolerance for brutal heat!).

in all seriousness though, what is your make or break in terms of "doable from the airport"? one hour? three hours?  to me, 3.5 hours wouldn't be a no-go.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

technically you can fly into lotus flower tower.  do that.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

Reno will get you to Mammoth and Tuolumne in 3 hours, Tahoe in .5 to 1 hour.  Lots of multi-pitch options right there.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337

N. Cascades seem like an option.  Not too far from Sea-Tac, and there are at least a couple of routes to choose from.  

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

SeaTac: Liberty Bell, Index, Olympics.
Jackson: Tetons, Winds. 
Reno: Tahoe, Tuolumne, HighSierra.


But all depends on how long the trip is. One week vs. three. And if it was three I’d be hiking and backpacking on the approaches too. Or is this a shorter, road side mission? Seems like the 2-3 hr drives are more the standard for long summer trad in the mountains though. Nothing quite as convenient as LV & RR.
Miguel D · · SLC · Joined May 2014 · Points: 559

Matthew,
Are you a airline employee by chance? Or relative of one?
Some of the ones below are served by regional carriers, but if you are on stand by, they may be better options than major airports

GCC - Devil's tower about 1hr
FAT - Yosemite is 2:20 away, better than 3+ from SFO
YVR - Squamish in under an hour
FLG - Sedona is about 30 min away and has beautiful climbing, hot but climbing in the shade would be fine
SLC - The Cottonwood Canyons and Lone Peak Cirque within 30 min, City of Rocks (2.5hr away)
EWR - Gunks in under 2hrs (or SWF in about 30 min)

Just a few off the top of my head. Good luck!

David Hutchinson · · Twisp, WA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

In Washington Leavenworth, Index, Washington Pass, all through YVR, Bellingham, SeaTac, Paine Field.
But Squamish is another top choice as has been shared. Two hours from Bellingham, one hour from Vancouver and lots to climb.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 151

Eastern Sierra above 8000ft

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142
Sloppy Second wrote: You can fly from LAX into Mammoth for about $200 additional cost round trip.

And then if you stay in Mammoth, you can ride the free Mammoth shuttle. Or if you want to get to Tuolumne Meadows, you take the YARTs bus. 

I F · · Curled up under damp leaves… · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,383

Not sure how long of a trip you're in for but Seneca Rocks, WV you can chase the shade all day as long as you time it right. Plus you can jump in the river after. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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