Mountain Project Logo

New route ethics

Original Post
Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,754

Curious about the ethics of bolting a line that has an existing anchor, but no lead bolts and isn’t idocumented anywhere as a TR.  Is it appropriate to bolt, lead, and claim as an FA?

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,129

You might start by attempting to identify who placed the bolts and ask them. It could also simply be a gear route. If there's a bolted anchor on top, there's a pretty good chance you're not first.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,754

No opportunities for gear. The line requires bolts, or a solo.

simplyput . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

Is it about the climb or claiming the FA? I think the question really revolves around whether you are doing a service to the climbing 'community' or just propping your own ego.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Benjamin Chapman wrote: Curious about the ethics of bolting a line that has an existing anchor, but no lead bolts and isn’t idocumented anywhere as a TR.  Is it appropriate to bolt, lead, and claim as an FA?

No

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Not really.... but you can tell the age of the bolts at the top, if it’s somebody’s new project or long abandoned TR. .... if you finish it, make a good sport climb of it then claim the FA if you wish.
Is this yet another squeeze job at Texas Canyon?

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

No, the FA has already happen and its likely they already named it.  Just climb and have fun.  Be thankful for the bolted anchors.

Not knowing the location, there might be local rules regarding bolting.  Some parks "don't allow" it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "New route ethics"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.