Rebolting Holcomb Valley

Just a heads up for folks who head up to HV during the week...my hubby(Joe DeLuca) and I are rebolting as many routes as we can this summer.  If you see us, feel free to say "hi" and pet our dog, Jackson.  Also know that rebolting can be noisy.  We are doing as much as we can Monday- Wednesday so the routes are free on the weekends for you all.  We are happy to share information on this project with any folks who have questions.  This is a super grassroots project, like a husband and wife team who have nothing better to do all summer and hopefully a few good friends.  We are more than happy to drink a beer with you at the end of the day and if you are really interested in the progress, check out our Instagram page @hvreboltingproject.  See ya all on the rock!  

See you guys this weekend!

Bye Crackie, Coyotes at Sunset, and Golden Poodle are done!!  

Thanks! Any way we can chip in?

Thank you, Carey & Joe.

Carey - sell me a few of the bolts off those area classics?

Matt Huffine wrote: Thanks! Any way we can chip in?

Why YES you can, gofundme.com/f/holcomb-vall…;

Thanks for the support

Roots wrote: Carey - sell me a few of the bolts off those area classics?

Might be a good way to raise some more funds for the project. 

^exactly and the originals get preserved to be shared with the community in the future...win win

I am a collector...I'm sure by now you have plenty of old hardware to use for educational purposes and of course new gear works in that scenario as well.

Seriously though, let me know if you ever get around to parting with your hard won treasures ; )

Carey...I feel your pain, as we participated in the Big Rock rebolting effort. An hour may seem like a long time, but we had some that took longer.
If you want some help I have a portable angle grinder and  huge crowbar that are real time savers.

With stainless hangers that were paired with carbon or plated steel in the past, the bolt goes bad long before the hanger. I’ve heard of people reusing old hangers on new bolts but haven’t done it personally. With most of the bolts I’ve replaced in Oklahoma (like the ones in this photo), the hangers still looked pretty good

Carey De Luca wrote: Selling the old hardware is a bit of a liability.  We would hate for anyone to try to use it again.  I know that sounds silly, but you never know.  We will also be using them for educational purposes.  But, if the person who put up the FAs on the routes wants any of it...that's a bit different. And it is a LOT of hard work.  Harder than I imagined.  I have spent an hour to get bolt out.  There is no price I could put on that.

If liability is the issue aside from literal hard work you could either stamp them or notch it with some bolt cutters to make it unusable. I’ve got a spare pair I could give you next time I’m up there. I don’t want any, but if it helps with the effort I don’t mind one bit.

^Please don't ruin a good climbing artifact(s). 

Roots wrote: ^Please don't ruin a good climbing artifact(s). 

It’s better than tossing them. I highly doubt anyone is going to hold onto a bin of old bolts if the FA doesn’t want them and they aren’t going to sell them as is due to liability issues.

Justin S wrote:

It’s better than tossing them. I highly doubt anyone is going to hold onto a bin of old bolts if the FA doesn’t want them and they aren’t going to sell them as is due to liability issues.

Edit: Or check with ROTW climbing club to see if they’d like them to do a fund raiser.

Use them as belay bolts at the base of exposed crags or to string out fixed lines for sketchy approaches? I've re-used a few hangers for that purpose...

What routes are you considering?  

Adam Stackhouse wrote: What routes are you considering?  

We have done 8 already.  We are trying to get the routes with the most traffic.  Check out our Instagram page @hvreboltingproject.

Carey De Luca wrote:

We have done 8 already.  We are trying to get the routes with the most traffic.  Check out our Instagram page @hvreboltingproject.

A lot of routes I donated or was involved in FAs up there.  Anything associated with any Chris Miller routes.  The hangers for most of those routes are in great condition and would like them to be reused.  If you don't want to reuse them, maybe you can somehow save them for the countless other route developments in the high desert that we are working on.

Thanks!
Adam

Adam Stackhouse wrote:

A lot of routes I donated or was involved in FAs up there.  Anything associated with any Chris Miller routes.  The hangers for most of those routes are in great condition and would like them to be reused.  If you don't want to reuse them, maybe you can somehow save them for the countless other route developments in the high desert that we are working on.

Thanks!
Adam

Adam,

Please have Chris or yourself contact Joe about this. 909-261-5449.  We will NOT be using them and many are plated steel.